... at least, not to the best of my knowledge. Does anyone know or think differently? I'm sure I remember reading somewhere on here, possibly last year, that Hilfiger was a Southern look as opposed to Ralph Lauren's Northern image. Can that be substantiated? I see bits and pieces on Ebay but, unlike with Ralph Lauren, I'm never tempted. I've also seen them new (in the once upmarket clothes shop my wife's nephew worked in before becoming a fat cat lawyer in Dubai) and in so-called 'vintage' shops. Also, from time to time, they crop up in charity shops. Why - in some of the examples I've come across - must their shirts have such an awful collar?
To save time - # 2 J.Crew
#3 Abercrombie and Fitch
#4 Gap
I've actually owned a single item from each of these brands, my favourite being a kind of khaki shooting jacket my late father bought back from the US probably in the 1990s. I didn't wear it for long, though. This was from The Gap. Can't remember where it was made.
A&F did reasonable chinos. Crew - are they thought of as 'Preppie' rather than 'Ivy'?
Q. Are Brooks Brothers now more or less at their level?
Once upon a time, I think it was up there with RL as a name to keep an eye out for. These days I just think of it as being another name on the high-street (along with RL for the most part).
Personally, Tim, I'm wary of any store to be found decorating a 'retail park' or whatever they're called, the like of which is to be found not far from us, just off the M1. A hideous, soulless place. Barbour are there. Levis are there. I'm pretty sure Gap are there. I paid a highly depressing visit last year (don't ask me why) and beat a hasty retreat to a neaby town, where I consoled myself with rich, sticky Polish cake (pre-diet, you see). Never again.
I’ll stand up for Tommy (shirts) I think I just did on another thread!
Firstly, but not most importantly, the logo is a lot more palatable than RL’s.
The 5/6 I have all have a decent three finger collar. A couple have a half decent roll.
All are a good full cut and are different enough colour ways. A yellow and a purple gingham, green candies etc.
They’re not high end shirts. They’re fine. I wouldn’t have paid any more than a tenner for any of them.
Their shops are soulless, uninspiring places for people who want a logo’d baseball cap or swim shorts. But they must be doing something right to even have a presence on the high st. So fair play to them for that.
Crew do good polo shirts if you don’t mind the logo. I wouldn’t wear anything else particularly, but if I tried some chinos and they ticked enough boxes I might. Preppy? Yes probably. Their advertising always puts me in mind of a budget nineties RL.
Jdemy once spoke up (more or less) for Abercrombie and Fitch. There was a cracking USA-made jacket of theirs on Ebay toward the end of last year. I don't recall it selling but it was very (I thought at the time) DSMD-period DMR. Wrong colour for me but nice.
This stuff does pop up in unexpected places.
I like to get out on my own. But don’t like the countryside, coffee shops, or sitting around in pubs on my own in the afternoon. So invariably I just mooch around local towns.
I’ve had stuff from Next (shoes used to all be Spanish leather), Zara (off white jeans, cashmere knitwear) M&S (knitwear) and Gap khakis in their day. Nothing incredible or that hits every detail. But it does tick enough boxes. Rise, taper. Three finger bd collars.
I’ve been banned from several shops for molesting their shirts.
I seem to remember reading that Gant was a brand from way back when ‘Ivy League’ first started to be used as a marketing term and makers were jumping on the collegiate bandwagon. I’ve had a couple of old Gant shirts from eBay in the past, there was something out of the ordinary about them, a feeling that was helped by excellent names like ‘Rough Weather’ on the makers label. I guess this was to try and create some nautical connection in the mind of the buyer with images of preppies on their yachts at Hyannis Port on a breezy day. Hilfiger didn’t start his own brand until 1984 so he was a Tommy come lately when it came to the Ivy look. I’ve never seen any old Hilfiger shirts for sale that grabbed me. I pay little attention to Hilfiger or Gant now, their collars seem to expand or contract according to the current fashion, I tend to bracket them together as places I don’t bother to go in. A few years back Gant launched a heritage Ivy shirt with great fanfare about how they were going back to their roots etc. They had a display of one in their shop window in Richmond and I was drawn in to go and examine one closely, I didn’t buy it though although it looked pretty good up close . The next time I checked their stuff they had gone backwards with piddly collars and skinny cuts.
A Gant shirt all too often looks, well, phoney: trying to sell some shtick but for some reason completely incapable of pulling it off. So why bother trying? Why not simply go on flogging the odd grey 'arrington to OAPs? I bought a Madras last year: complete crap. Won't make that mistake again. Also a navy poplin. Terrible, although a cheap charity shop purchase. But - and here's the rub - several Brooks and Baggie shirts I picked up turned out to be just as bad. Not worse, but just as bad. A bit of trial and error going on, even now.
I’m quite a fan of Gant. Just not at full price. They’re not £80/£100 shirts.
The prices they’re flogging stuff for in their stores is laughable. I was down at Portsmouth outlet the other week and they had some really nice pinstripes for £50 odd. I’d say that’s just about what they’re worth. Tops.
The collar is very variable, as is the fit generally, but when they get it right it’s a good enough job. I’ll predict they’ll be going back to larger collars as that’s the way the high street’s heading at the moment.
They’ve done some quite bright and bold madras shirts in the past, which I quite like with shorts or ecru jeans. Boat shoes. More preppy at Aldershot Lido than Hyannis Port.
There is some genuine heritage there though. Tommy’s big break was a T Shirt with ‘Tommy’ across it. Wasn’t he at one point officially the most faked brand? Piles of Timmy Hillfinger T shirts on market stalls
When TH launched his full range in the mid Eighties it was backed with an extensive ad budget. The ads used the names of previous big US designers and positioned him as the next in line. The business was also managed by some ex-Ralph people who knew their stuff.
I remember hunting it down towards the end of the Eighties on a visit to New York and being pretty unimpressed by the quality. In all fairness you've got to remember that Polo at this time was superb. Great designs, materials and construction - although they still used a huge variety of sources for manufacturing.
In the nineties as an extension of all the stuff he was doing around music he really wooed the African American market and was popular with the hip hop crowd. It moved the brand in a more sportswear direction. I admired this greatly although the baggy jeans and massive logo sweatshirts were never something I would wear.
I always felt that he looked at what Ralph had achieved and followed his marketing led approach. Take for example, the campaign he ran about ten years ago. Using The Hifigers as a family that looked similar to The Royal Tenenbaums. Although ad heavy the concept showed nice variations on madras, seersucker and corduroy.
I now see TH at outlet malls when I'm in Florida. I don't rate it compared to either the Brooks or Polo stuff at the same outlets.
Where I live the TH brand is inexorably linked with people who live in caravans and supposedly move around a lot.
Perhaps they should have marketed themselves as 'Thomas Hilfiger Esq.' and gone for the faux-Anglo 'heritage', Changing Of The Guard mixed with Yalie chutzpah angle. 'Tommy' sounds far too proletarian - like 'arry. As Hancock once said to Jack Hawkins, 'You sound like a scrap metal dealer'. Too late to do anything about it now but I was wryly amused that my wife's nephew should have thought it 'high end' when working in what was once a premier men's outfitters. (I ended up buying only Falke socks from them - and they didn't last the distance). I recall meandering in, wearing Troy Guild, meandering out again, then meandering into a nearby charity shop. They had a blue Brooks Makers, the only Brooks shirt I've ever come across in that situation. My size. £5. Sold.
I own one TH shirt, a pink OCBD, it's around 25 years old and it's one of my favourite shirts. Soft with a good collar roll. We used to sell it in Harrington when I worked there second time around, so it cost nothing as it came under the "uniform" budget.
As for Gant, their Yale Coop & Rugger (353 Bleecker - NYC) are also very good IMO. Great details, collar roll, back button, flap pocket and can be found on eBay from £6 and upwards.
'As for Gant, their Yale Coop & Rugger (353 Bleecker - NYC) are also very good IMO'. - I'd agree with this RG, I've still got 4 of the CoOp's, and 3 or 4 of the ruggers, 3 of the ruggers are madras, all started life as long sleeves but had them taken down to 1/2 sleeve, I'd seen the coop's advertised before I'd seen them in the flesh, they got a good review from the Weejun, I bought 2 in the newly opened Gant shop in Guildford, afterwards I was mooching in Harrington's and Ian asked what I'd bought, showed him and he said they were excellent, he told me Gant had been 50% of his business,(he couldn't sell it anymore after the Gant shop had opened), I'd say this was the sad decline in Harrington's business, a great shame,
'Vintage' Gant are supposed to be good - possibly better than good. I recall Yuca singing their praises some time toward the end of last year (though I'm fairly sure he said they were often expensive on the secondhand/online market and so he hadn't any direct experience).
I suppose, having been seduced by Brooks at a tender age, I've always seen their shirts as superior. I still buy one on average about once a fortnight, so long as its American made. Last evening, in fact, before settling down to watch an old Bette Davis movie with my dear wife, I picked up a pink Makers on Ebay for £6. I mean to say! Go nicely with my cream McGeorge cashmere sweater on a warm day.
Brooks also demonstrate longevity. The one I'm wearing right now came from Dennis The Plumber back in 2008/9. Still going strong.
Of course I wasn't really knocking Gant in the original posting, only trying to solicit opinions about Hilfiger.
There's a couple of BB's uni stripe shirts on ebay, same seller, he's displaying one of them under a very appealing green 3/2 jacket , I had a search and it doesn't seem the jacket is for sale, I'm tempted to contact the seller to see if it is for sale....
I think he's chancing his arm with that starting price, Stax, don't you?
Yep, but the jacket looks very nice ! ( I keep telling myself I've got enough jackets), but...
Interesting colour, Stax - what would you team it with?
Well if the colour in the photo is true, navy or charcoal trousers, maybe khaki, the striped uni shirt under it goes well, a blue shirt anytime under a green jacket,
Don't know if this is well known, but a few years ago JS told me the guy who started BS use to buy shirts from the IS to copy them , get inspiration etc,
Mm. I asked because I hesitated over a rather nice Abercrombie and Fitch, USA-made jacket on Ebay toward the end of last year. It was - and, as you imply, the colour representation can be a bit off - maroon or burgundy, and I'm not in the running for a job at Butlins', so I passed.
Be interested to find out the make/date (roughly) of that jacket.
Talking of photographs, though, a Grenfell coat I bought just before Christmas showed up as purple - though, in fact, it's the colour of Cadbury's drinking chocolate. And I've seen black come out as navy. All highly unfortunate for the seller.