Of course Patrick Nahman was referring to the traditional sack and was critical of the fact that Brooks Brothers had opted to meddle with the style around (I think) 1980.  I've no idea when darted jackets first appeared.  Yuca would probably know but, after confessing his undying devotion to the Brothers Glib - sorry, Gibb - he seems to have done a disappearing act.  Seriously, I do hope he's all right.  He and I rarely agree on anything but he's long been an invaluable member of 'Talk Ivy'.