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#1 2022-06-05 05:08:41

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

Who was the originator of the phrase?  van der Rohe?  Possibly. 
My current bugbear are the two or three long silky tags to be found on an inner seam of much modern clothing, even the newer Brooks shirts made in the USA. 
Too many buttons on the placket remains irritating. 
Then - of course - there remains the vexed question of the collar. 
Another bugbear of mine is prosaic labelling.  I like nothing better than an Old School label, such as with that camel Lands End jacket I mentioned recently.  American sellers often did this kind of thing very nicely.  So did the English.  I still rather like the old Daks label.
Fussy features on half-sleeves are also a no-no and buttons where there simply needn't be any. 
You'll all have your own gripes.

 

#2 2022-06-05 12:05:52

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

An Aertex Madras half-sleeve I bought a few months ago had a fussy little loop and button at the hem of each sleeve.  Utterly pointless detailing.

 

#3 2022-06-06 02:36:46

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

The devil thing sounds more worthy of Ruskin or Morris.

And THIS is why the two great Brooks Brothers products are so fantastically functional and plain and austere :

The Brooks Number 1 Sack Suit
The Brooks button-down shirt

Not sure on precise dates but let's say between 1920 and 1985 these two items were mass produced and were majestic and inspirational in their perfection. Don't exist any more. Not really.

Everything else made in the Ivy genre is either a copy, or a corruption, of these prototypes.

 

#4 2022-06-06 02:43:24

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4180

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

William Morris would have offered more interesting ties (probably in collaboration with Liberty) than Ivy schoolboy stripes.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#5 2022-06-06 03:03:45

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

I have found my recently acquired Brooks USA-made shirts wanting.  The collar roll is not what it was, even on some of the Malay shirts. 
TRS is making some of the same observations/offering the same critique as JFMs old mentors back in the early 80s.  They (if memory serves me well) were highly displeased by the updated Brooks suit. 
I still think of Ruskin when mooching around the vicinity of Ashbourne parish church.  He wrote a stern letter to the vicar concerning the quality of his glass.

 

#6 2022-06-06 04:28:46

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4180

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

I don’t think Ruskin would have views on clothing Ivy or otherwise. He might have worn work wear on the basis that it was good for the soul. He would never do any physical work himself of course but would encourage upper middle class types to do so.

He had some interesting ideas and some odd ones.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#7 2022-06-06 04:36:02

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

He and Morris were both oddballs.  Would have made excellent jazz musicians.  Billy 'Wallpaper' Morris and Johnny 'Lamps' Ruskin.  Strictly Dixieland 'Mouldly Fygge'.  TRS, on past evidence, would not approve. 
Each was over-indulged by his elders and betters. 
My wife is something of a Morris/Pre-Raphaelite collector and authority.  Missed her vocation.

 

#8 2022-06-06 05:34:41

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4180

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

TRS would definitely not approve of ‘The William Morris’ Wetherspoon in Hammersmith then (nicely decorated with a nod to Mr.Morris). Such is life.

Morris’ printing press was based in Hammersmith not far from The Dove public house. Had a nice Vietnamese meal at Saigon Saigon close by a few weeks ago.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#9 2022-06-06 05:46:12

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4180

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

‘William Morris is perhaps the most significant name in a book about pub carpet patterns and design.... Morris once said ‘ What business have we with art at all unless all can share it?’ If we allow ourselves to admit that some of these carpets are actual works of art, then certainly we are sharing something quite profoundly in the Morris mode.’

‘Spoons carpets An appreciation’ Kit Caless

(In this pub the walls are more impressive than the carpet)

Last edited by Kingston1an (2022-06-06 05:48:19)


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#10 2022-06-06 06:52:12

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

Nietzsche apparently said it first.

 

#11 2022-06-06 07:05:01

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

Kingy is right to say I would shun the naffness of the Wetherspoons' boozer besmirching the great name of WM. I would venture instead to the excellent William Morris Museum in Walthamstow and rejoice in the bearded one's advanced engagement in socialism and aesthetics. And both WM and JR would have been all over the workwear thing - Monty Don's of design. Posh boys in bleu de travail as they engage the brain and the hands in the creation of a finer universe. They would have been horrified at everything in the modern world, but especially the vulgarity of places like Wetherspoons where working men waste their money and intellect sobbing into piss weak ale.

 

#12 2022-06-06 09:01:44

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4180

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

‘places like Wetherspoons where working men waste their money and intellect sobbing into piss weak ale.’

In my case retired men.

£3.38 in total for a pint of Twickenham ‘Honey Dark Mild’ 4.8% and a pint of Windsor and Eton ‘Boatman’ at 4.3% (with vouchers from a national beer drinkers organisation). That seems good value to me and the beers are of a strength that suits.

No sobbing. The regulars discuss Gurdjieff, Joseph Campbell the American poet and the meaning of life, amongst other things. Though I avoid the long stay table as I have other things to do.

Woof knows the pub. I would prefer the Oakham and Surrey Hills range of beers like they used to have but no complaints.

Last edited by Kingston1an (2022-06-06 09:02:36)


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#13 2022-06-06 12:45:50

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

A good retort to the ill informed Kingstonian without need to mention Ringwood Old Thumper (5.1%) that has become a regular  alongside the many fine guest ales that grace the pumps at Spoons, convivial establishments where music is not played in case it stifles the erudite conversations taking place between patrons.

When it comes to producing a beverage as tasteless and insipid as a virgin’s piss and passing it off as beer, the French and Italians have no equal.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#14 2022-06-06 12:58:29

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: The Devil Clearly Remains In The Detail...

French beer is, indeed, awful - in my (thankfully) limited experience.
On holiday in Italy many years ago, I offered to buy a barman a drink.  He asked for a Coca-Cola.  The 'local' beer was Dreher but he swore blind it was exactly the same as Perroni and Moretti.  I took him at his word and have been baffled by oiks licking their chops over the stuff ever since.

 
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