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#1 2022-11-01 08:35:07

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

RULE BRITTANIA

Digging back through the misty origins of Ivy clothing you frequently find mention of American retailers lovingly buying stocks of British clothing.

Andover, Ben Silver and Press still stock a variety of British made items. Even when the exchange rate was prohibitive Ralph was loyal to British bench made shoes.

So what do you buy from British brands.

I like Smedley shirts. I get them in bulk from the factory shop. Crockett and Jones for loafers and Chuckas. Again, I've used their factory shop. For belts and scarves I've used the Regimental Shop. I like Barbour wax jackets. Is Alan Paine still made here?

The Pantherella argyle socks John Simons sells are far better than the Burlingtons

 

#2 2022-11-01 09:07:39

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Good post Alvey. The English aspect is often overlooked in favour of the US and Continental angle. Not least by me!

Smedley is pretty hard to beat. I’ve had a couple of merino polo sweaters on the go for maybe twenty years. No sign of age whatsoever.

There’s the obvious MiE Clarks, Pantherella and Baracuta. All of which I’m happy with but not particularly devoted to.

Sanders desert boots I love from a comfort point of view but a lot of people are saying they don’t last the distance.

My recent Gloverall find hasn’t had a testing yet but I suppose the fact that it still looks mint after 60+ years is testimony in itself.   

MiE Loakes are great but I have to say for me top of the tree are my Church’s brogues, which are so good that I actually feel like a better person when I wear them.

Edited to add: I’ve had some really good old Austin Reed shirt finds over the years. Easily tick every box for cut and detail. I’d have to double check whether they’re actually made in England though.

Last edited by Spendthrift (2022-11-01 10:58:26)

 

#3 2022-11-01 10:57:22

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

If you never been to the Smedley factory store I can heartily recommend it. Not only will you come away with a bargain or two but Matlock is genuinely beautiful. There's a few pub/hotels in the area and it makes the perfect base for exploring the Peak District.

In Birmingham we used to have  a Loake store but what really surprised me was that some of the shoes weren't made in the UK. Sadly the store eventually closed.

C&J are going strong. Great shoes and when you look at the man hours required to make them they're good value.

 

#4 2022-11-01 11:10:39

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Loake still have a store in Guildford. Same shop as the much missed Harringtons (mark 2).

The Royals I got from Harringtons are MiE but a lot of the shoes in the Loake shop aren’t sadly. Like a lot of Northampton brands they’ve had to diversify (in their case into ‘Loake for Debenhams/Next etc’) That said I’m still minded to pick up a pair of black Sovereigns to fill a gap in the wardrobe.

Unfortunately even I’m unlikely to make a seven hour round trip to the Smedley factory, but if I’m ever nearer that way I’d make a special trip

Last edited by Spendthrift (2022-11-01 11:11:32)

 

#5 2022-11-01 14:05:11

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1263

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

All of the above plus Grenfell. I'm up to three of their harringtons now made during this recent incarnation.

 

#6 2022-11-02 10:27:38

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I forgot to mention Cordings. Great indestructible moleskin trousers and shawl collar knits. Raincoats and overcoats look good too

The list is taking shape

Footwear: C&J, Clarks Desert boots and Loakes

Socks: Pantherella, Corgi

Jackets: Grenfell and Baracuta

Shirts: Smedley

Knitwear: Shetlands - genuine made in Scotland

 

#7 2022-11-02 13:28:17

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 779

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Can we add Cheaney shoes MiUK,
I’ve got around 6 pairs of Cordings strides but they’re all made in Italy, are the moleskins UK made ;
Should we add the ‘Made in London’ items on offer in Chiltern St ?

 

#8 2022-11-02 21:41:42

Jdemy
Member
Posts: 696

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I’ve just started looking for vintage Alan Paine sweaters. Bought one and loved it. Nice saddle shoulder lambs wool.

 

#9 2022-11-03 02:21:45

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I have just received an email from O'Connells advertising their cashmere sweaters. Made in Scotland 
'O'Connell's buyer John Huber visited our long-time knitwear partner Scott & Charters, maker of the lion's share of O'Connell's luxurious sweater collection, including the world's finest cashmere'
Even this knitwear company has struggled in the recent past to keep going.

Clarks opened a factory in the UK to start manufacturing desert boots again but closed after a year or so and reverted to Made in Vietnam. No Clarks are made in the UK today. (sad face)

Alan Paine now manufacture abroad.

Sunspel that make good boxer shorts and polo shirts now use a family firm in Portugal

Tootal had a made in UK silk scarf production but this now appears to have stopped.

I have a great pair of Alfred Sargant (Northampton) longwing brogues. AS went bust and name bought up by internet company.
Many companies trade on their British Heritage but when you start digging you find that was in the past and the Brand name is the only part that remains.

I'm as guilty as anyone as I buy stuff not made in UK but it is bloody difficult to find anything made in UK today. I don't expect that to change anytime soon.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#10 2022-11-03 02:33:55

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Don't want to sound too depressing so I would say I like what some small companies are doing to bring manufacturing back even if they are not necessarily  'my cup of tea' product wise.

Good Measure -Sweatshirts

Community Clothing

Old-Town

Last edited by RobbieB (2022-11-03 02:36:06)


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#11 2022-11-03 02:37:23

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

And as Stax writes JS is selling Made in London clothes


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#12 2022-11-03 03:37:14

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Johnstons of Elgin- Made in Scotland


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#13 2022-11-03 03:42:10

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Should we make the list Made in British Isles?
I've a soft spot for made in Ireland and regard some clothes as the equal of made in Scotland.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#14 2022-11-03 04:50:09

AndyV
Member
Posts: 58

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I've had a few items from these guys and can vouch for the quality...

https://hebtro.co/

 

#15 2022-11-03 05:36:12

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Stax: Some of the Cheaney loafers look amazing. Yes, they should def be added to the list.

RobbieB - J Press cashmere is J of E so have Ivy Credentials. I don't own any of their product but have my eye on a cable sweater. Burgundy would be nice in the sale.

Didn't know AP was now outsourced.

Re: Sunspel. Although made in Portugal I am massive fan of their merino polo shirts. I probably have half a dozen in different shades. Better weight than the Smedley version and nicer collar than the AP. I can highly recommend.

AndyV. Hebro cords are supposed to be superb. Have you any?

 

#16 2022-11-03 07:11:55

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1263

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I don't do desert boots now so cannot comment but Sanders for formal shoes are wonderful. Especially the danite sole military/Derby type shoes.

Nobody mentioned Sunspel yet... I think some is overseas but some definitely not. I think although I don't have any Private White has developed well and their quality on such as macs is very good. I was sceptical but they have endured and focus on quality.

 

#17 2022-11-03 08:26:09

Runninggeez
Member
Posts: 688

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

What about Drakes, that's if money's no object of course.

Also J of E manufacture lovely Lambswool or Cashmere scarves.

Last edited by Runninggeez (2022-11-03 08:33:42)

 

#18 2022-11-03 08:59:25

AndyV
Member
Posts: 58

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

"AndyV. Hebro cords are supposed to be superb. Have you any?"

No Alvey, I don't. I have a couple of pairs of their moleskin trousers. Very "comfy weekend" feel to them.

Last edited by AndyV (2022-11-03 09:00:07)

 

#19 2022-11-03 10:42:27

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

AUS- We have mentioned Sunspel and the Portugal connection. What do they still make that is 'local'?

I have an affection for Portugal so I don't see made in Portugal as a negative.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#20 2022-11-03 11:34:35

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Maybe 'trainers' are not Ivy but New Balance have a UK/USA connection
I have a few pairs and good they are too.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#21 2022-11-03 22:39:23

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Fred Perry is big with my eldest's friends. They do have a distinct Made in England line, but I think most off-shored.

C&J's still delivering and for shirts, if you're looking for something peacock, although definitely not Ivy, but some button-downs, T&A cannot be beat. Sadly, the prices now are utterly bonkers.

 

#22 2022-11-04 01:55:22

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I have a few MIE Fred Perry polo shirts and they seem to be better quality than the made in China ones. In my youth all FP were made in England, of course.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#23 2022-11-04 02:00:43

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

Alvey -'J Press cashmere is J of E so have Ivy Credentials. I don't own any of their product but have my eye on a cable sweater. Burgundy would be nice in the sale.'

That would be top of my list as well. Burgundy one of my favourite colours and I'm on the lookout for a cable sweater. It would need to be at a sale price.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#24 2022-11-04 06:05:25

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I'm currently toying with the purchase of a vintage Bruar cable-knit in.. Burgundy! Great Minds and all that..

Drakes I can't seem to get behind, I've taken a dislike to them for no particular reason. Their website is an un-navigable mess and that doesn't help if like me you're unable to visit a B&M Location on the regular. Their instagram feels awfully snobbish too and that's a particular bug-bear of mine.

What is interesting to me - and something that has only occurred to me fairly recently, after some discussion here and also with some of you via Instagram is I feel like JS are positioning themselves to align with Drakes.
It's the first time in my living memory that I can think JS have done such a thing, they've always been a stalwart and reliable provider of a certain thing but in the last few years have increasingly brought production "in house", trimmed things/brands/lines they may have been known for, increased prices fairly radically, and developed their own particular style. Fundamentally they're attempting (with a certain amount of success I imagine) to become a brand, rather than just a shop. I've written my feelings on the subject elsewhere on these forums.

As for British Isles made, there's no doubt that Irish Tweed (especially that made in Donegal) has a serious place in the Ivy canon. MacGee still weave tweed on the island, although the clothing production has joined the ranks of other brands fobbed off to the Portugese.

Padmore & Barnes maintain their design offices above an oddity of a shop in Kilkenny but the factory has long since closed, so another one made off shore. Surprisingly, the shop has a modicum of dead stock MIEire shoes in their inventory, no mail order though!

Irish linen is still produced here, although the bulk of the flax is now imported, the historic crop making way for increasing sizes of dairy herds.

Hannah Hats however still churn the bulk of their production out from a relatively small factory somewhere in the wet of Donegal.

I'm sure there are other worthy brands keeping a modicum of production going in the British Isles, so all is not totally lost but it's not like the states, where there seems to be a genuine spark of interest in not only keeping existing factories going but in actually bringing manufacturing back to the US - and not just in a limited way.

 

#25 2022-11-04 08:50:48

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: RULE BRITTANIA

I don't think Jake's London for BD shirts has been mentioned. Manufacturing the real deal in Silvertown, East London


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

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