After wasting to much time and far too much money on illusive hunts outside my brand preferences this is roughly where I currently sit.
Obviously this is just my personal take and I appreciate it encompasses things that may repulse others. Budget, availability and comfort aside:
At the cheaper end of the spectrum I like the look of some Bass models but know they're not what they were. The occasional non-shiny textured leather is worth considering. I have attempted removing the varnish but what was left wasn't that nice either.
Sebago are more reliable and worth searching for older shoes. Shame that some of their lovely colours are no longer available. Deadstock preferable
Increasing the budget pays dividends. Rancourt loafers are better quality. Crockett & Jones Harvard/Boston are Goodyear welted. Even with regular use I've found them hard wearing and supremely comfortable.
Alden are increasingly silly money in the UK. I like their unlined suede loafers. Very comfortable but flabby fit compared to similar UK brands
Allen Edmonds have stopped making their lovely Walden loafer that John Simons used to stock but you can still get McNeils - but for how long.
Avoid shiny Cole Haan pinch pennies like the plague.
I have some Italian made Florsheim Yuma. Nothing wrong with them but infrequently worn. File under Strange Beasts
Dessert boots not really my thing but I have Huttons. Lovely suede and great shape. I prefer a more structured Chucka. C&J Chilterns are very good.
Paraboots - love 'em or hate 'em - but they're comfortable and practical. My Reims have given a lot and I wish I'd sized down though. The split toe Adonis loafer is worth investigating
Deck shoes. Not a massive amount of difference between the two main contenders but the Sperry Gold Cup range has a memory foam inner that adds comfort and helps when you're wearing them for a longer period of time. I've just bought some AE deck shoes but yet to wear
Camp Mocs: LL Bean vey narrow, sent back. Quoddy are lovely leather but they're taking a hell of a long time to break in without socks.
Driving shoes - although not necessary Ivy there are a few designs that might appeal. I found a lovely suede Sebago on Amazon of all places. Florsheim in the past have had really good Made In Spain drivers that John Simons had for a brief while. In the past I've owned Todds and there wasn't a discernible difference between them and less expensive options I've owned.
Rule of thumb (with the exception of drivers) is when it comes to shoes you really do get what you pay for - but style wise there is nothing wrong with some of the cheaper options out there.
Also, shoes like fine wine should be bought and stored ready for the Ivy apocalypse.
Discount Shoes in Strutton Ground is fine if you are on a tight budget. So Loake longwing brogues and plain caps plus Bass weejuns. These are corrected grain leather though.
They also offer Berwick shoes which are better value - plain caps in Scotch grain, English-style loafers, suede chukka boots.
My best shoes are from Northampton but not Ivy apart from Trickers plain caps in Cordovan leather. Trickers split toe are arguably like Ivy Gibson's, Trickers Adelaide's are not. Then a couple of Crockett handgrades, a Church's plain black Oxford, Edward Green single strap monk shoes, plus a John Lobb Chapel wholecut which would cost a pretty penny new these days.
Then Clarke's desert boots and wallabies plus an Astroflex desert boot. Roamers soles don't last but they are very cheap.
Also have RM Williams craftsman plus a Veldtschoen boot and Veldtschoen shoes that get a lot of use in Winter.
My black shoes don't get so much use since I retired.
Kleman Padror look like Paraboot minus the horrible outside labels. They are very affordable but the soles squeak
Anyone rate Oakstreet Bootmakers? About in the same "league" as Rancourt, arenĀ“t they? Considering buying the beefroll pennies. Sizing however seems to be tricky.