I've always associated Russell & Bromley with Sebago.
A couple of years ago they appeared to drop the classic Dan beef roll loafer in favour of their own brand.
I checked them out at my local branch and was immediately disappointed in the quality of the leather and the exceptionally shiny finish.
Through the powers of Insta I keep getting details of their brown suede Dartmouth loafer being sold at half price - £125.
On Monday I pulled the trigger without physically seeing the shoe in the flesh.
Regardless of the cheap price point I'm delighted with the shoe. Firstly, the rich colour is lovely. Also, the soft interior with a slightly padded insole feels quality. Yes, compared to Sebago the uppers do feel thin.
I'm a massive fan of suede loafers and have Crocketts Boston, Alden LHS and Florsheim Yuma in rotation. These are a welcome addition to the collection.
At £125 I'm even considering a second pair.
Word of warning - no half sizes so sized up.
Wow! What a bargain. Made in Italy as well. Half price. Is this a further sign that men are no longer buying shoes, even in a loafer style?
In my area l don't see anyone in proper shoes anymore.
Same here Shooey.
Unseen Scene has often referenced todays all pervading casualness and striking a balance between full on Ivy and the real world.
Leather ‘dress’ shoes seem to be a demarcation line now in menswear. Suede seems like a halfway house.
Recently I’ve sold off 10 pairs of leather shoes, including several lace ups by Allen Edmonds, because I haven’t worn them since retiring and I couldn’t see me wearing them again. I kept back a couple of pairs in black and brown for formal suit-wearing occasions. Other than that it’s loafers for smart casual, Paraboots in the winter and canvas sneakers in the summer.…. and trainers which are making more regular appearances on the FlatSix feet.
I regularly get stares at my feet when travelling, as though I am deviant for wearing formal shoes. It is rare to see them now, even on smart people.
I certainly will never 'need' any more formal shoes.
I like suede once we get to Spring and they are a good compromise as you say.
Still on the Funchal theme there were plenty of 'formal' shoe shops there, mostly mid-range price-wise, like you FSC I've sold off 6/7 pairs of shoes/formal boots since retirement, there was a young-ish guy ( 40's) I noticed in the hotel several times that had the usual tee shirt/polo/shorts rig out but he wore black lace-up formal shoes & black socks with them ! I don't think he was trying to make a ' fashion statement ' just didn't have a clue, hahaha
I found a great little backstreet shoe shop last year in Quateria near where we stay in Vilamoura. I bought 3-4 pairs of suede derbys with casual soles in different colours - perfect holiday strolling shoes. When Mrs Unseen was there months later without me, it has closed. In the multiple times I went in, I was the only person who ever bought anything while there. We're back in October, so I'll be on the look out once more.
It’s true, these so called dress sneakers are omnipresent on the feet of London.
I have 2 pairs of long wings (Alden and Bostonians) leather and suede loafers, and my much prized Sportocasin’s for smart/casual though like flatsix find I fall back on Wallabees, Playboys and canvas more and more.
I recently picked up a pair of worn once Engineered Garments x Weejuns for £25 and some YMC x Clarks Edmund (a
Leather penny loafer with a semi wrapped crepe sole for £20 both on eBay which I’m looking forward to wearing in the spring.
An Unseen Scene said:
"I regularly get stares at my feet when travelling, as though I am deviant for wearing formal shoes"
Shooman asks everyone including AUS:
Please share more about this. Are people staring because you have nice leather shoes and it is rare, or do they think you are an oddball?
Are you an old hand at wearing leather shoes,ie,do you wear them without a second thought? Do you feel self conscious about wearing shoes and being the odd man put?
My answer for Shooman as follows.
I wear formal shoes constantly, I always have. I am not self conscious in them at all. I have a decent range and am comfortable in pairing right shoes to trousers. I am not commenting on if I was wearing Oxblood colour shoes, which have always been comparatively rare to see. I do not own any trainers at all. Brands I wear are Sanders, C&J, Barker, Berwick, Paraboot, Bass, Solovair, Loake. The shoes are polished in the appropriate way for the type of leather with the shape maintained via shoe trees.
I see people going to offices now in puffer jackets, jeans and trainers as the norm, so seeing someone in formal shoes, tailored jacket, a mac or wool coat over it and so on is becoming much more rare. Even in central London or Manchester this is the case and once you get into small cities and towns, other than old retired blokes, I am often the only person dressed this way.
I now dress down my trousers these days into ironed drill jeans, moleskin, chinos etc most of the time as formal trousers are now only relevant for me if I am leading such as a conference panel or giving a speech. So my formal look is fairly casual compared to decades ago and my extensive knitted tie collection is unused (I have worn a tie twice since Covid era ended).
I genuinely don't think I look an odd ball. My colour combinations are subtle, I avoid garish colour combinations, my short beard is neat and I do not have a hipster type look. As my name here suggests, I want to blend in to get on, with those in the know able to perceive the overall subtle style.
I think the changing conventions make me stand out in a way that twenty years ago the same style was the convention, so was invisible to most. It isn't me generally that gets the stares, it is my shoes.
I think young people are increasingly not used to seeing polished black or brown formal leather shoes at all. They are the shoes of their grandparents not their parents. I am 55 but fit into that upper generation in my dress now it seems. So the shoes are a novelty. Particularly, I think if polished. It is now the puffer jacket and trainers or a hooded sweat top which is invisible. Even former fellow former Mod-looking types of my generation are dressed down into the puffer jacket, polo top, jeans and trainers look out in pubs.
I am talking about grain or plain derbys/gibsons or apron front/split toe equivalents plus loafers. Nothing garish or odd. Always in a single colour and none of that tweed woven in you see promoted by some manufacturers. I tend to even avoid light tan shoes. Suede shoes do not attract the aame attention when I wear them in warmer weather.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2025-02-23 12:03:50)
Berwick is a good inexpensive brand. Not really worried about whether people think my shoes are odd. I have some decent ones and have had them a long time, without really thing about it.
Less people wear tailored jackets now but they look good and have decent pockets. I don't intend to wear a chore coat like a Saturday boy in Woolworths. I always had a long coat there anyway. Chore jackets were for the lost counters at the back of the store.
AUS said:
"I wear formal shoes constantly, I always have. I am not self conscious in them at all. I have a decent range and am comfortable in pairing right shoes to trousers. I am not commenting on if I was wearing Oxblood colour shoes, which have always been comparatively rare to see. I do not own any trainers at all. Brands I wear are Sanders, C&J, Barker, Berwick, Paraboot, Bass, Solovair, Loake. The shoes are polished in the appropriate way for the type of leather with the shape maintained via shoe trees"
Shoomen says:
I am not surprised, you like many here are into clothing so have been doing it all their lives.
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AUS said:
"I see people going to offices now in puffer jackets, jeans and trainers as the norm, so seeing someone in formal shoes, tailored jacket, a mac or wool coat over it and so on is becoming much more rare. Even in central London or Manchester this is the case and once you get into small cities and towns, other than old retired blokes, I am often the only person dressed this way"
Shooman says:
Yes l see it too. People are too scared to stick out and feel the need to be casual, BUT there are likely many who know no better because they haven't been introduced to stylish attire.
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AUS said:
"I now dress down my trousers these days into ironed drill jeans, moleskin, chinos etc most of the time "
Shooman says:
I never compromise my style. My trousers, shoes and coats are my uniform. Shooman is always in good trousers and shoes every day of the year.
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AUS said:
"It isn't me generally that gets the stares, it is my shoes".
Sooman says:
I wonder why they stare at your shoes. I see people staring at my shoos sometimes too, but l know why, it is because they are AMAZED at the stunning beauty, no kidding. Heck, l am amazed at their stunning beauty too. People don't see shoes like that in my country. I am a shooman so l take it all in my stride, it is part of my signature style,ie, the very finest dress shoes every single day since l was a teenager.
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AUD said:
"I think young people are increasingly not used to seeing polished black or brown formal leather shoes at all. They are the shoes of their grandparents not their parents. I am 55 but fit into that upper generation in my dress now it seems. So the shoes are a novelty. Particularly, I think if polished"
Shooman says:
This is what l find fascinating, people are not used to seeing "polished shoes", it is all about the "polished shoes". No-one has shoes like that anymore. As a kid everyone had them. Yes, at our age we are getting in the older age bracket, and we are a little bit like old farts in our shoes and sportscoats. I say, embrace it. Some of the asian 20 somethings call me uncle now....it is a term of respect for older generation. Obviously we are not young anymore and people see it. If you are over 50, dress like it. Don't try to dress young...dress your age and OWN IT!!! I also do hats now because l am at the age where l need a protective covering, I wear them and l don't give a stuff. People get used to it.
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AUD said:
"I am talking about grain or plain derbys/gibsons or apron front/split toe equivalents plus loafers. Nothing garish or odd. Always in a single colour and none of that tweed woven in you see promoted by some manufacturers. I tend to even avoid light tan shoes. Suede shoes do not attract the aame attention when I wear them in warmer weather".
Shooman says:
I wear lots of derby's and monks now, but for years l was a real purist and only wore oxfords for the most part. I wear a lot of tan shoes with light trousers and contrasting sportscoat, but also lots of medium brown shoes with grey and navy trousers....always with contrasting sportscoat and never as suit. I avoid suede, l love polished leather and the natural patina that comes with it.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2025-02-23 13:34:22)
I have reached the conclusion that at 57 my wearing of trainers should be consigned to undertaking sports, wearing with shorts on holiday or pottering around my garden. I don't feel comfortable in them.
My issue is what trousers works best with trainers. I think wearing them chinos and trainers looks silly on me - as they do with moleskins, cords, flannels. I don't own track bottoms or joggers.
I much prefer wearing a good pair of shoes. They support my feet, are much more practical on city streets and look smarter.
In the building I work in I see a lot offer weight, middle aged creatives wearing trainers. It reeks of holding on to the last vestiges of their youth.
Increasingly I'm drawn to suede shoes. They're a bit more interesting than calf and work well with the aforementioned trousers.
I'm always worried about soggy suede shoes so wear mine in warmer weather, but I see people wearing them all year round.
AUS,
I wear mine all year round - unless it's absolutely hammering down.
The colour of the suede also has to change in the warmer months, as dark suede with very light coloured chinos has the effect of making the suede appear too dark - almost black.
Snuff works better.
I love Crocketts Chiltern suede Chucka boot. You can wear these with practically anything except light chinos.
Anglo American are using the old C&J lasts created for Ralph. Whilst pricey they're exceptionally comfortable.
Some interesting commentary on this thread.
My subtle shift in what I wear is, to me, one of the signifiers that I have reconciled with retirement. So I like a bit of French Ivy mixed in and I like trainers, suede shoes and loafers in the spring and summer. Paraboots and trainers in the autumn and winter. Unlike AUS, who has to strike a balance at work, I have no such constraints.
Alvey said ‘My issue is what trousers works best with trainers. I think wearing chinos and trainers looks silly on me’ … maybe but take note, you are rapidly heading towards the age where you become largely invisible to 90% of the population. The upside of this is that you can purely dress for your own pleasure and wear what the hell you like. This realisation came to me in my mid sixties when I could see that the end of my working life was in sight.
If possible, when I’m out and about, I like my outfits to be slightly ‘troubling’ to people. If they look at me and think I look a bit different or out of the ordinary, it’s fine with me. A note of discord or ‘unusualness’ is required. Sometimes that note might be provided by some trainers (classic and not nondescript ones). Wearing trainers with jeans or joggys is now run of the mill usual behaviour for older men, wearing them with a pair of cords or chinos is not. It’s different, but, without tipping you into full eccentricity or golf club wear. I have been stopped in the street by young people commenting on what I wear, not taking the piss, but being genuinely complimentary. I’m an object of curiosity to them I guess.
I’m frequently turned out like the guy on the right in this
http://dickcarroll.com/shop/upper-west-side-print
or this
http://dickcarroll.com/shop/dick-in-stockholm-test-print-
As John Gaul once said; ‘time to throw off the shackles of self consciousness and celebrate your style’.
Interesting reading. The comment about being asked about your clothing and shoes - that does happen to me. I've had positive compliments from people my own age and also much younger people. Polished oxblood shoes often elicit a 'what are those? where do you get them?'. The nicest comments are those who say I put it all together well.
Another thing that goes down well is a really good white-black herringbone Ivy sport jacket. I was stopped a few years ago by the staff at RL in regent Street who were really pleased with my jacket and overall look. They were even more so when I told them the jacket is a RL Rugby Ivy jacket. Still going very strong after more than a decade. I subsequently always got a cheery welcome and guide around for the new items (whether I wanted it or not). They seemed to like me being around in either their clothes or those in the style.
I do like the point about confidence too - these stares at my shoes, I'm quite happy with it. It doesn't bother me. That said I caught the bus to the train station just after nine in the morning (so the free bus pass qualified) and it was full of old chaps in cream windcheaters, flat caps, chunky cords and proper shoes, usually brown brogues. Think of the Scottish sitcom Still Game if you know it. Was it me, or were they whispering 'one of us.... one of us....'. Not that long to go now until I am there!
On the point of colour and combinations, with the weather better I wore a Loden wool, light green RL67 Ivy jacket yesterday (made in Italy), blue stripe BD shirt with a silk-cotton dark blue scarf (from Pelicano Mensear, bought about a decade ago). The jacket really did attract some glances with most people not having any colour in their clothes as discussed recently. A young woman on the train seemed particularly interested in my Berwick dark brown grain apron derbies.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2025-02-26 15:09:43)