While lurking on these boards (and others) I have paid particular attention to the modernization of J. Press under Mr. McNairys watch. While I probably would not wear all, I would venture to wear most. Its always interesting to see someone's take on modernizing the look.
After all, we cant exist in a vacuum? (David, you know of what I speak...)
I recently saw a pic of McNairy on the street, wearing a three-piece navy suit, and brown fedora, and I thought it looked fabulous. I cant find the pic again. Any idea where I came across this?
I am enjoying any pics I find of his own sartorial adventures. Seeking inspiration from the hum-drums, I guess.
Yeah, the guy's got style -- I personally don't care for all of it (but who buys the complete "package"), and with the exception of what I see as a few unfortunate quality issues, I think it's alright.
All a part of the continuum...
The BS that you read on Wikipedia about JP being very similar now to how it was in 1902 is just that: pure BS.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Trad
'Cos all "Trads" by definition are new to the style (It never used to exist you know) in their enthusiasm they look back on a recent period of stability/stagnation at Press and think that that was always the deal with the company. Not so, chums.
Press was very 'samey' for a spell it's true. That is now over. The story, as ever, goes on.
But if the "Trads" actually knew their real tradition then they'd know this ...
Cheers!
Jim
I just saw this weekend the new Press catalogue. It seems very fresh to me. Maybe thats because I haven't seen any of the old catalogues. I was surprised how few items they show. I really liked the spread on ties.
Chums,
The Lord knows that Press needed some freshening. But how much fresh air was added by orange shirts, lapel pins and NY shirts,, I know not. Perchance I am missing much. Here is the moses of new trad to lead his flock.
http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2007/04/on-streetnew-trad-chelsea.html
Cheerio.
Last edited by tripchauncey (2008-02-11 08:51:25)
In my little dream world I imagine that the Trad pins etc help to keep the show rolling and subsidise in some strange way those items which Press still sells which I like.
Please do not ask me to explain the correlation between selling a few Trad pins & financing the making of Tweed Sacks.
... If I think too hard about these things it makes me question my faith which as we all know would be A Very Bad Thing.
Cheers!
(Off to look at velour tracksuits in my old 80's Brooks catalogues... All a part of the old curricky, don't you know.)
.
Last edited by David (2008-02-11 09:43:04)
Chums,
I so enjoyed the bloke on BBR who authoritatively propounded recently that Onward Kashiyama killed J. Press. Whilst I doubt that this Expert was even acquainted with the ol Press when owned by the aftbears of Jacobi, I do believe his statement is idiotic in all events. Were it not for the Japanese's benign neglect in not following current fashions, all of the ol "Trad" offerings would probably been scrapped long ago. How could a "trad" view the hermetic sealing of JP as a time capsule be deemed a bad thing? I do applaud his ferreting out a new villian tho. Top work there.
Cheerio,
Trip
I just hope someone continues to offer the 3-2 sack. For no other reason than that I like the look of it.
Although I think my favorite thing about Press is that the madras is different every year. Like some sort of obscure "collect them all"
As an barely employed "professional student" at the moment, I unfortunately can't afford "them all."
The fun they have out there!
Better lapel line too I think - Not so wide as the US offerings?
This is Trad to love. Proper Trad in the proper sense of the word. None of that silly American made-up stuff.
Sayonara, chums!
Would there still be a Press without him?
There isn't really a Brooks anymore.
Chums,
I fear my past post confused. Whilest I confess I am not a grand fan of Mistressman, I do not reckon one can state that Onward Kawasaki ruined the brand. OK acquired JP long ago and kept the trad for 20 years.
My concern avec Mistyman is if he knows his customer. Much of his design seems to go beyond freshening into hipster-ing the brand. Skulls, stripey shirts, 7 ties, NYC logos,,, Is that really a customer base? Or is it,as my chum David propounds, a way to draw attention?
Cheerio.
Maybe he believes he can pull off a morph into a whole new customer base by an eventual complete product change. It could be he doesn't believe the brand will be viable in America any longer unless he completely transforms its base from old preppies to something else.
It's happened before over the last 20 years (Burberry, Cadillac, A&F, Rod Stewart)
Last edited by Coolidge (2008-02-12 10:13:11)
^ Wise words.
I've made this style pretty much my life along with casual alcohol abuse and some of the finest Jazz ever known to a white bread boy.
... I also like a bit of fanny too...
I saw Brooks go. Chipp & The Crimson Shop also went whilst I was looking the other way. I could see Press go too.
I alone will go on with a handful of mates picked up from wherever.
It matters not.
I don't believe that "Trad" actually exists in its AAAT form. There is a thing called "Trad" and it is glorious - But it is in Japan.
In England there is the old Ivy League style kept alive in one shop in London.
In Paris there is a loose group of old friends who meet in Le Zephyr for drinks wearing Sebagos and Brooks shirts.
America has all the history & tradition of this style, but you don't see it on the Internet. All you see are middle-managers playing dress-up & getting all the details wrong.
Press does what it does. Pick & choose. Buy with care.
The "American Trad" dream does exist... Chaps in old loafers meeting for drinks and swapping informed gossip about mutual friends... But do you think they'd even say Hello to the Virginian Yankee 'Harris' or the self-styled Tennessee 'Squire'? Or to an Evangelical Lay preacher from the Backwoods?
Do you really think that the world is like that?
Dream on.
Cheers!
Last edited by David (2008-02-12 11:14:08)
David,
Aren't you being a little harsh. Surely not all of the guys over at AAAT are as you describe.
If anything, the "social elite" aspect of trad puts me off certain elements of the style.
I've spent plenty of time with upper-class, conservative, white people--meh.
Most of my friends are Jewish, drug-abusing musicians who dress like destitute 5-year-olds. They are much more fun.
The OP wants to talk about Press.
But David talks on and on about Trad.
Are they the same thing or not?