Following on from my comment on Tony's 'Barrie Shoes' thread...
Brooks pushed the English element in the Ivy League style more than most I think. Or at least they are the best known.
The Village Squire Shop in NYC I believe also spoke Ivy with a pronounced English accent, featuring Burberrys especially.
Peal shoes are/were a Brooks staple - Pure English style.
Alden, like it or not, make shoes in the English style too on the whole. Their Longwing & Smooth Brogues stand out as being American style, but the rest are very European in styling. They do not make an American styled loafer.
This is a thread to muse on this element of Ivy League style - The element which is pure Anglo. Mainly you spot it in the shoes & knitwear I think.
Much of Ivy is English/Scottish given an American flavour - This we all know. But what of those English items in the Ivy cannon which were not restyled with natural shoulders, etc?
All that 'Henry Higgins' styling which is Anglo and yet in the Ivy rule book too.
http://www.imdb.com/media/rm3030226944/nm0001322
Any thoughts?
J.
Lock hats would be another Ivy element which is pure Anglo.
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-19 11:19:46)
Much more than that. But again, as some have opined in the past, those English elements were taken and twisted. So that, the BD collar and the longwing shoe were made more "formal" elements of dress.
The BD is American, not English, but I take your point. Brooks invented it, it did not exist on English Polo players.
The elevaton to formalwear of the heavy Longwing brogue may indeed be American. Nice point.
Care to muse on your 'much more than that' comment? I'm thinking here of those very English items - The one's I'm not keen on - that you find in Ivy style.
I'm not thinking of anything too obvious like 'Tweeds come from the UK' as the Ivy styled tweed is very different to the English/Scottish cut.
Best -
Chesterfield Overcoats - Very Anglo & perfectly Ivy.
Too Anglo for my taste so I go with those Baclamaan (or whatever the silly name is) jobs.
Being a relative yoot, I cannot recal the old days of the Brethren but they clearly flogged boatloads of British stuff and even today their catalogues reek of British-ness more than Americana.
It is interesting how Americans took British stuff and spun it a different way: same stuff, different cut. They made their own unique version. I suspect our Japanese friends are more inclined to keep things more pure and delineated.
Not English, but Anglo.
Madras, Seersucker, Khaki (colour) all moved westwards via the British East India Co during the 17th, 18th & 19thC.
Madras was an imitation of the tartans worn by the Scotish Regiments based in East India.
Paisley an Indian fertility symbol originated in the sub continent and was exported global, not heavy IL, but it crops up on scarves ties etc.
There's more lets keep looking!!!!!!!!
RH
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-20 01:38:32)
How about the Desert Boot?
It became 'other' in England & hip in certain contexts.
This never happened for Peal.
The natural shouldered set always went mad for English, Jermyn street shirts. Even if they made them up in buttondown collars. Turnbull, Harvie, Hilditch, New and Lingwood all had cachet here. It made your suit more grown up and you got a chance to wear cufflinks for once.