Since my company has devolved into "business casual", I was wondering about the future of suits in general as business wear. Aside from meeting clients,and other "high powered" occasions, it appears that the suit is on the wane in the business environment. A visit to my tailor and a review of various jacketings for my newly expanding sportcoat wardrobe gave me an idea- What about suits in country cloths as the new "dressy" business casual? There are a couple of provisos with this revelation that limits the universe of cuts since "business casual" eschews ties.
It seems the trick to tieless suiting is a high throat. The small expanse of shirt is relegated to more of an accent than a canvas for the tie. Although collared shirts are less adapted to this, the ubiquitous mock turtleneck may serve better.
Single breasted suits really don't "work" sans tie. The cut is such that an awful lot of shirt is exposed, and without a tie to break up that expanse of shirt IMO it just doesn't look 'right'. The attempts I've seen at work have been miserable ( and by otherwise very well dressed men). Adding a vest to raise the throat probably looks worse but my vision wasn't clear on this. It may just work but I doubt it
To my mind, the high throat DB is best adapted to tieless wear. The crossover and the peak lapels both serve to frame the now tieless shirt / turtleneck better than could be done by a SB. In context, the jacket replaces the cloak and the smaller expanse of shirt, the cloak's clasp. In previous ages the clasp was a decorative element that served to direct the viewer to the wearer's face, as the tie does now. As a demo, I'm looking into having a suit made from Dormueil "faux tweed" in a somewhat subdued but obviously country pattern for the purpose of trying this look. ( I can always wear these as separates anyway so no loss)
Before everyone posts Ralph Lauren in his glen plaids with black trutlenecks, I think the throat of his jackets is much too low to carry the look.
Food for thought?
I have to disagree. DB just look odd without a tie; like the wearer is just coming off a weekend long bender in Vegas during which time he lost his tie while leaning out the car window to toss his cookies. They just seem more formal than a SB, and therefore, anomalous without the formality of the tie. Like wearing french cuffs with jeans.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-08-24 09:14:03)
Theres a big difference in wearing clothes depending on how you are perceived. If they like you, then you're a gentleman, if they don't, then you're an uptight weirdo.
I don't know how you can say a SB suit doesn't work without a tie but a DB suit does?
I have no idea how business casual survives. Companies spend so much on an image and then their employees dress in Hawaiian shirts? You would think they would like you to dress up. Especially since no matter how casual someone is they expect the companies they hire to have a professional (read tailored) demeanor.
The most curious part of dress down isn't that people dress down, its that they worry about people that don't. A sort sartorial race to the bottom, only you get entered whether you like it or not. It creates some real pressure and I myself try to handle it with some delicacy and humor. Someone asked me why I was wearing a suit and I replied "I'm wearing a suit? How the hell did that happen?"
Ok, not everyone is a clown or has the type of personality that can play with people but why do people fear wearing a suit? Is it because they buy shirt neck sizes too small? Is it because they fear growing up? It certainly isnt to impress women who by the by, like men in suits, probably even the ones Yachtie wears
I see good lawyers at the courthouse dressing down to file documents and engage in other non-court-appearance matters. Don't they realize that they are always "on stage?" I went to Oh So Onerous law school for three years so I could wear a suit to work like my father. The practice of law is not onerous; those days it is are made more bearable by sartorial expression.
I've made a compromise to the business casual environment by wearing sport jackets more often, esp. blue blazers, but with a necktie. A chambray or denim shirt further downplays the tie. I don't feel fully dressed without a tie.
One thing I am actually surprised to see is the boomerang back to a more formal work environment. When I left grad school just over 10 years ago, the workplace was still relatively formal, but the whole khakis/Hilfiger buttondown movement was just starting to spread its tentacles. Then by 2000, the formal workplace was almost an anomaly in almost all but the legal and investment banking community. Slowly but surely, I have witnessed a very gradual but noticeable shift back to at least semi-formality. Granted, the shift is almost imperceptible, but there nonetheless.