I just took delivery of a pair of Tricker's cordovan bluchers.
Americans will have little idea of how rare cordovan is in the UK. Crockett & Jones offer them in a very nice blucher - but they are dear and I have never found them in the sale. Not much saving via plal either. Church's are even more expensive and not often seen.
Anyway, I am really happy that I am supporting a proper Northampton shoe maker. Northampton firms rank higher than Alden or Allen Edmonds IMO. The only shoes those companies produce that I like are the plain blucher and the long wingtip. Loafers in cordovan is over-egging it IMO. Weejuns will do just as well; though deck shoes have usurped the role of loafers for many occasions. Alden cordovan in other lines is not very nice at all. Alden monk shoes have a nasty thin strap.I do not like saddle shoes. Toe caps do not work in a derby etc. etc.
Trickers say the model is a 'country' model sized a half size bigger for thick socks. Fits me fine with ordinary socks, though measuring the sole against a Loake Royal wingtip it is definitely wider.
I just need some narrower trousers with no break to show them off properly.
The cordovan is sourced in Argentina at a new tannery called ANCA. This appears to be Spanish for 'rump' or 'crup'. So Horween and Japan are not the only sources for cordovan.
If I got some argyle socks and a digital camera I could post on 'What footwear are you wearing today'.
Best of all I could put down 'mogano' for the colour. Oh the kudos !!!!
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-09-24 22:06:47)
Great thread, Kingstonian. Busting the Cordovan 'orthodoxy' nicely.
Best -
I have not got a digital camera but the shoes were an ebay purchase. See below
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200253511778#ebayphotohosting
They had some with Dainite soles and chukka boots as well.
The kudos of a 'mogano' colour now disappears.
Ron Rider from Martegani's postings on "fake cordovan" was interesting, in this SF thread
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=66697&highlight=japanese+cordovan
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-09-25 09:16:10)
You could try saving the seller. 'retricker1829' is the company shop. Prices are much better than the resellers. He posted on AAAC a few times after his colleague 'tricker'. Alternatively, try typing tricker with no 's' and see what you get.
I do not know much about their collections. Pediware has some models and there was a leaflet that I got that showed some, but not all, of what they sell.
Got to the 'seller' in the top left of the ebay window under 'Meet the seller' and then click 'Add to favourite seller'. Then when you go back it will appear in favourite sellers.
You can do the same with any searchs to save you typing in the words again.
Both would then appear in your 'My ebay' options.
I did not size down. I just used my standard UK size. They are a generous fit on me -wider than Loakes long wingtip.
Trickers were selling brogues recently but the broguing looked very cheap, clumpy and agricultural. They also had chukkas in cordovan,
I was in a quandary about RM Williams sizing after reading various threads, but I just went to the shop in the end and paid UK prices. I had to drop a half size for them though.