An interesting one Russell. There's something to be said for the survival of the purer forms away from the supposed motherland. Take blues for instance which survived mainly outside the US before being re-imported.
On a different topic but the same thing, there's a city in Brasil called Salvador where anyone who wants to study Yoruba language, culture, dress and cuisine must go to find the authentic examples that can no longer be found in Nigeria. The reason for this is simple - In Nigeria it was just normal culture that no one thought about and times moved on and changed (like TNSIL in the US?) whereas in Brasil the culture, dress and food took on almost mystical significance as the defining element for the slaves and post slaves to affirm their true identity.
Even today you will find teenage girls wearing Yoruba clothes going about their business in Salvador.
(Before the PC police jumps in I'm not suggesting that UK Ivy preservation compares to slavery, but I think anyone on this forum is intelligent enough to realise that!)
A very interesting parallel.
Beyond the UK of course is Japan who have really preserved & also recreated so much that was lost by the rest of us.
Of course Japan is the formaldehyde of national cultures - in every single aspect whether you're talking about Mini Coopers, bossa nova, vintage Rolex, stamp collecting. Formidable.
What is great about them too, is that they manage to simultaneously preserver the originals exactly as they should be AND allow a twist to be added for 'fashion'. In this way the income from the 'fashion' element allows the preservation of the classics.
it was exactly this that I tried to get Bass to understand, even though it was patently obvious they never would.
And the 'meaning' ascribed to Ivy in Japan is that it is for the 'young at heart' and 'for everyone' - Both slogans of the Van company over there.
The US may well have marketed & hyped themselves into a corner over this style but nobody else has.
I'd be tempted to state that this whole thing concerns such a miniscule part of the US population to make the question silly, but then I remembered overhearing this in the Torrington, Conn. Goodwill thrift store:
Man, mid-30s, t-shirt and jeans: How about this shirt? (Holds up RL uni stripe buttondown collar)
Woman, mid 30s, t-shirt, leather jacket and jeans, gravity-defying hair: Naaah, whaddya some kinda preppy?
Some conceptions die hard, I guess.
But we are a tiny part of all our respective populations. I think the discussion could still be interesting for those interested.
... Maybe?
The following sums it up neatly for me:
"Robert "Chip" Thurston will inherit $50,000,000… IF he survives the weekend."
Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-03-25 09:37:33)
"baggage" is inherent the second you stick a label on anything.
Let's talk numbers. What is the likelihood of seeing someone wearing a consciously Ivy style look in the various parts of the United Kingdom in comparison to seeing someone consciously Mod, casualist, etc.
Also, this whole Sloane Ranger business is a total blank spot to me. Aren't they your preppies? Didn't they muddy the waters somewhat in the same way the preps have supposedly done in North America? I totally have no footing for any of this conjecture and am looking to learn.
Adam, they do have a website http://www.east-r.co.jp/
Sadly, your best bet for scans is E-bay. However, having bought a few back issues at monstrous prices from an otherwise very fast, very reliable seller, I can say that E-Bay isn't the most cost-effective way to purchase said magazine.
If I were you, I would do something terrible and convince your parents that the only way to ween you off this dangerous path you have chosen is to get you a subscription via Fujisan http://www.fujisan.com/control/product/~product_id=3223
They offer the best prices I've seen (though I don't know if they ship to England).
UPDATE -- The site does have an English version. However, searching Free & Easy shows it to be unavailable. I recommend dropping them an e-mail, as I imagine they still provide subscriptions.
Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-03-25 15:14:00)
I think it is generally acknowledged that top to toe Ivy is a rarity in the UK; only that aspects of it are included. I do venture forth, however, into this mucky little town in everything US-made and as close to top to toe as I believe is humanly possible.
No one notices.
Oh yes Weejun so nice to hear your comments about your 2 months in Italy. This has happened to me too. London is my playground and it still gives me an enormous thrill just being here, but, hey, the British are visually illiterate aren't they? And you know the funny thing - as part of my job I often spend time amongst the arty/fashion end of things and the people in this area - they are so fucking smug, they think that London has got it SUSSED, that this is the most creative, open, experimental place in the world and they sneer at other 'fashion capitals' like NYC, Milan and Paris. But unless you're hanging around St.James or Chelsea or a few pockets of Soho then nobody knows jack shit about proper tailoring, about silhouettes and traditions and fabrics and shape. They've thrown the lot away and just invent some absurdity and call it 'street style'. Go to any little Italian town and there will be men who know how to dress and who do it day in day out. They look at other men, they comment, they care. They are a visually sophisticated people in touch with their traditions. And they spend a serious amount of their income on how hey look, unlike the British who care about, well, gardening or hi-fi equipment or 'home improvement'. What city were you in Weejun? I have felt that excitement of being in a place where you feel you understand the culture, their priorities and values. That place is Italy.
Great stories guys. I really enjoyed them.
This guy from "Behind The Scenes" is great:
"Clothing in the US is down to the lowest common denominator. Everyone wears khakis and button-downs. Everyone is business casual or worse.
Most people look past clothing now, I believe, unless the item is so far off the scale as to be noticeable. Embroidered green pants, for instance.
This is the problem now with Trad and its curriculum. There is very little left to distinguish it from what everyone else is wearing. The preppy basics went mainstream. That's why they have to fuss over certain details and wear bow ties.
History doesn't make something right. Consensus is not a fact-based exercise. Trad's tied and bound to this self-indulgent enterprise we call America.
Once the Trads convinced themselves, their universe fell into place. They've got their ideas and their posse of friends, they've made up their rules and the fun never ends.
But still there's a problem, leaves them gasping for air; we look for some meaning, blank smiles are all that is there.
There's no substance!"