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#1 2006-07-31 23:10:34

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Grenadine colors and interlinings

Recently, I have had colors on my mind as I planned our August grenadine silks. Film Noir Buff was kind enough to add  the following comments which I have copied and pasted:


"White? I guess with a blue or grey chambray shirt and a blue or grey respectively seersucker suit? Interesting.
Incidentally, the art of a good grenadine is in how it's lined. I have a few from paul Stuart from years ago that are lined very well but very thinly and tie a tight, crisp, elegant (and scrunchable) knot with a good dimple almost like a charvet woven tie. The old sulka grenadines were similar as were some of the Richel grenadines (being Spanish they seem to really understand the weave) ive seen a lot of grenadines which tie a clunky, sloppy knot."   


As always I appreciate Film Noir's thoughts and ideas which I have quoted above.

I tend to go back and forth between sometime really different that I like such as mudmee silks for ties and pocket squares and something really classic like striped rep ties that could easily fit in 50 years ago in Brooks Brothers.

With our current grenadine silks, it is obvious that we would go with the classic navy, black, green and red. What is not so obvious is as Film Noir Buff observed our choice of white and some of the brighter uncommon colors for grenadine silks.

I guess I am going through a slightly creative summer and while I am not going traveling for a while (six-month old daughter...) I love to spend time at our home in the Luberons. And for those who have spent time in the south of France they will remember the bold use of bright colors.

Now that I have covered my thoughts on colors, on to interlinings.

First, when dealing with grenadine silks there are two basic types: Garza Grossa (which we are working with), and Garza Fine which is a looser more delicate weave.

Now the most important part of the interlining is what it is made of. Almost all ties made in America do not use pure wool. Our ties and the best European ties use pure combed Italian wool. Here and there you may find interlining wool from England or elsewhere, but for all practical purposes Italian interlining wool is the best.

With ready-made ties the knot may or may not be what you want, however, with bespoke ties in general the maker is going to use a "springy" wool and be certain that the wool and silk match well.

Of course some clients will want an interlining that makes the type of knot that they like, and that is fine as long as they are happy.

The "Garza Grossa" grenadine does very well with an 11.3 oz interlining wool. In a three-fold construction it drapes well, and with a six-fold construction it is wonderful.


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#2 2006-08-01 02:13:15

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

Do you happen to use English garza? Thanks.

 

#3 2006-08-01 06:06:10

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#4 2006-08-01 07:02:53

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

White could be interesting for a grenadine tie.  I'm a fan of course of navy, black, and burgundy. 

I've found the Andover ties are very good.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#5 2006-08-01 12:47:59

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-08-01 12:53:41)

 

#6 2006-08-01 12:51:55

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

Nobody cares about bottle green or brown garza? I find them quite nice in addition to the classic colors Horace mentioned.

 

#7 2006-08-01 13:44:39

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#8 2006-08-01 17:41:46

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#9 2006-08-01 18:31:43

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

I enjoy bottle green grenadine with dark gray suits.


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#10 2006-08-02 03:25:42

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#11 2006-08-02 10:14:03

Mulberrywood
Member
From: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 54

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


David Hober

www.samhober.com/store

 

#12 2007-01-11 02:50:50

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#13 2007-01-13 08:31:30

suds-okeefe
Member
Posts: 366

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

What are grenadine ties useful for? Are they to be considered like any other woven tie? What kind of knot and dimple will these give someone?

You have a lot of different shades on your web store and a lot of navy shades. I do not see a lot of these ties around are they accepted?

 

#14 2007-01-13 09:15:29

Sam Hober
Member
From: Bangkok
Posts: 170

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


David Hober
"Sam" is Samantha my daughter
Custom Made / Bespoke Ties
www.samhober.com

 

#15 2007-01-13 09:49:02

suds-okeefe
Member
Posts: 366

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

 

#16 2007-01-13 12:35:37

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#17 2007-01-13 12:51:19

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#18 2007-01-13 17:06:10

Sam Hober
Member
From: Bangkok
Posts: 170

Re: Grenadine colors and interlinings

"Good morning Mr. Hober,

I thank you for the good answers. How do I distinguish the different navy shades? I have heard about the legendary black grenadine tie but I am not certain that it goes with every kind of shirt color."

I love the internet and It is a lot of fun doing business over the internet, but we face two challenges:

Explaining colors and textures.

I am hoping that within five years we can all purchase for a reasonable price fantastic monitors with some sort of universal calibrating system - and I will become very good studio photographer.

I don't have the proper amount of time at the moment to really improve our website with elaborate descriptions so rely on the old-fashioned marketing technique of providing swatches.

Normally a gentleman will email me with comments like please send me a swatch of your darkest navy.

Now as for the black grenadine I can tell you that I love it and wear it often. But I am not big on rules. However, I don't wear many different shirt colors so I am safe. White shirts, blue shirts and the occasional stripe or plaid is what I wear.

I also have one other black tie that I used to wear often that is made with our handwoven Thai silk. I am going to make myself a tie with an Oxford weave in midnight blue soon.


David Hober
"Sam" is Samantha my daughter
Custom Made / Bespoke Ties
www.samhober.com

 

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