Hello All,
Allow me to introduce myself through my first post!
I am interested in hearing from anyone who might have direct experience with Richard Anderson on Savile Row (either through garments bespoken themselves or having directly seen others bespoke pieces). He appears to have quite a good reputation on some of the other fora out there...I will say that I understand (from older posts) that one of the esteemed members here may not be so....enamoured with Mr. Anderson? I wonder if he might be willing to give some specifics on the experience that has caused him to hold Mr. Anderson's ability in such low regard.
I am most interested in hearing about the overall cut, tailoring ability, stylistic guidance and overall experience with Mr. Anderson if possible. For example, do you consider Mr. Anderson's line more fashion oriented than styish (i.e. fleeting rather than timeless), is he more Huntsman than Huntsman as others claim, how have you found the styling of his work that you may have seen?
I see from some of my post searches that there seems to be a wealth of knowlege on this forum and I eagerly look forward to expanding my own knowledge as a result.
thanks!
I am surprised - nobody has experiences or seen some of Richard's work in person and could comment on the above?
How about Huntsman? Same as the above questions for Richard. I am trying to decide which to try for my next sportcoat.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Marc Grayson, a member here, and RSS over on the real housewive's forum have used him. Ask them, and you will probably get different opinions. Be sure you don't mention RSS's name if you happen to stop by.
I have seen some of RSS' comments on both, unfortunately not a whole lot to go on in terms of differentiating between the two. I believe he uses Richard now so, perhaps, that says it all. I wonder if I should confess now that I was the one who dropped his name at Richard's shop?
On the other side, I have seen something about Marc being displeased by the trouser length that Richard gave him? But I am not sure that comprehensively captures the reason for his dislike of Richard's skills...or if he would have any Huntsman experience to contrast? I am not sure a sole issue of trouser length (assuming it could be remedied) would be enough for me to leave a tailor.
I guess I need a tiebreaker!
i can try and break it down, but do not know if i will be able to do it justice because it was more a visceral reaction to seeing the shape, rather than a explicit thought about its constituent parts but...i like the elongating effect on the torso. the crispness of the shoulder without appearing overly built up. it is a leaner look to my eye than most of the military style (e.g. dege) savile row stuff - less swell in the chest and less of an overtly hourglass shaped coat. i also like the particular flare that is used in the skirt - it flared, clearly, but very different than say, poole. I am not tall (about 5-9) and am slim...so i can use all the lengthening and want the emphasis to be on long rather than wide - if that makes any sense:)
it looks structured and crisp to me but not stiff.
additionally, the lean look is obviously 'in' right now but what i particularly like from what i have seen is that although RA & Huntsman have a lean look it is 'classically' lean and not fashionably lean - again, dont know if that makes sense. That is one thing I would really like to get input on - I assume Huntsman is a classic cut, what about Richard? His cloths, at least, seem almost 'fashionable' and his cut is sharper but would you all still consider it to be a 'classic' cut that will stand the test of time just as much as a Huntsman cut once did?
Last edited by ufboy73 (2009-07-08 15:36:28)
l have no experiance with Richard Anderson at all, but l have shown my tailor pictures of the Anderson suits of a certain forum member here. My tailor said: his suits are "cut badly" and would have a tendency to "nape at the neck". My tailor has fixed botched Saville Row suits in his workshop as well, he says the Saville Row guys are very poor at cutting a suit because they use a "block cutting technique" which is old hat and inefficent when trying to fit the suit.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2009-07-08 21:29:34)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2009-07-08 23:06:25)
Alden's collar is way too constricted and looks suffocating. You can barely see his shirt collar, add a standard width tie and the shirt is completely concealed. Any collar real estate past the base of the neck is not a sign of a good fit as many iGents rhapsodize about, it's just a style decision. They fixate on it because it's very easy to describe and pinpoint.
The Huntsman collar is alright, what's happening is the chest is a bit small for the dummy.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2009-07-09 00:42:20)
One of my suits is like that (Aldens) and you can hardly see the shirt when the tie is on (the shirt just peaks out on the sides), and only half of the shirt collar can be seen. l really like the look (it does look different). Doesn't feel constricted though.
l've noticed a number of Aldens suits with that similar collar, his DB's are like that too.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2009-07-09 01:23:33)
Hard to discern with only a front shot but what immediately came to my mind is he looks encased in that jacket. The shoulder line is completely straight. Sleeves are way too short and the "flared skirt" adds width where you would least want it.
Also, the sharp hourglass screams 'old shape' and fuddy-duddy, at least in my mind.
Shooman,
I did not understand your (and your tailors) point about the collar until you latter posts. I think it would be silly for any tailor to disparage another tailors cutting skill because of the coat collar aesthetics you are illustrating. Perhaps your tailor was trying to indicate something else, but all I see in the above pictures are personal style differences represented in the coats. Huntsman (and I assume Richard) are very well known for cutting a coat that shows much more shirt collar and shirt front than other makers. I think this is just simply part of the 'look' they provide. Obviously, you may not like this aesthetic (and it sounds like you do not) but its not an issue of lacking cutting abilities - its akin to whether or not one prefers roping on the shoulder, or a swelled chest, or open quarters.
Last edited by formby (2009-07-09 13:45:01)
I need more images from this tailor to make an informed observation. Why dont these guys show pinstriped or solid suits? It's probably because most people cant see silhouette or tailoring details and need to be drawn in by bright patterns but I find this distracting.