Film Noir Buff Style Forum / Favorite RTW or MTO shirt makes?

JDelage · 2009-09-16 14:11:05

Hello everyone,

I'm curious what are your favorite RTW shirt makes, both in the US and the UK (and anywhere else for that matter).

I have RTW shirts from T&A in the UK, Charvet in France (I went in for bespoke but was told that the standard 39cm (15.5 inches) MTO would fit just as well...), and Faconnable & BB in the US.

One of my favorite shirts is a yellow w/ white stripe straight collar oxford that I picked up during last Winter's sales at Charvet for 50 Euros. Best value ever. Charvet is too expensive for me for everyday, so otherwise I like T&A. However it's hard to find interesting designs, at least on their online store. Also, they're a bit pricey for me at this point.

So I'm interested in other people's experience. I have read several mentions here of H&H, and they seem to have a very nice offering, and great prices to boot, right now.

Thanks,

JD

Grossgrain Silk · 2009-09-16 14:59:25

Lucy Adams is making for me at the moment. Looks good but a bit early to tell - great fabrics though.

Curtis and Dyer online is one of those outfits where you measure yourself and they make it up. Limited range but very good product which lasts very well and keeps shape, size and colour. At the price they are as good a rtw as you can get I think. Some of the cloths are interesting, but they do good standards and plains.

The_Shooman · 2009-09-16 19:03:23

None.

Never can seem to find nice patterns, and never can find a shirt that fits just right, and never can find a shirt with a nice collar. l've worn highend RTW's but have never been satisfied. l don't even bother looking or thinking about RTW dress shirts anymore.

John Rotten · 2009-09-17 15:48:38

I have a few, in no particular order:

1) Brooks Brothers. Must be either slim fit or Black Fleece. If you get the fit right, BF are some of the best OCBD shirts available, and they are a staple of my wardrobe.

2) Turnbull and Asser. Nobody does colors, patterns or collars like T&A in my opinion. They have a relatively sliim fit to boot. I also love the barely there, MOP buttons, unlike the massive MOP preferred by most of the iGentry that just makes the cocksuckers difficult to fasten..

3) RLBL. Slim fitting, nice silhouette, especially for casual wear.

4) RLPL. Almost always require tailoring to take excess fabric out of the chest, but nicely made, great colors, and decent fabrics as well.

Bishop of Briggs · 2009-09-18 04:11:56

At the risk of repeating myself, I have been a customer of Hilditch & Key for over 20 years. The quality has slipped and I am planning to move to another maker when my current stock wears out.

For RTW, my shortlist is Budd, Turnbull & Asser, Rayner & Sturges (for Emma Willis and Alexander Boyd) and Dege & Skinner. Harvey & Hudson, like H&K, is now made overseas and the effect on quality is visible. You get what you pay for.

For bespoke, I would choose Sean O'Flynn on Sackville Street or Stephen Lachter at Norton & Sons. Pictures that I have seen of bespoke shirts from Russell & Hodge were not impressive.

Oldfruit1 · 2013-07-12 08:51:30

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-07-12 09:13:14)

Bishop of Briggs · 2013-07-12 15:24:56

^ Fruity, with sadness, I have to agree totally on H&K. Standards have been declining for a couple of years. It's the same story at New & Lingwood unless you can find some old stock.

Sadly, T&A's standard shirts are too big on the body for on me. Budd is cheaper than Willis and is introducing a slim fit cut. Dege & Skinner used to sell good sale shirts (spread collar, made in England, MOP buttons) for H&K prices. Kent, Haste & Lachter sell RTW shirts but I have not checked the prices.

A old friend has used Stephen Hartounian in Fulham - http://www.stephanshirts.co.uk/. They are made in Turkey or Cyprus. RTW prices are similar to the cheaper Jermyn Street brands. However MTM prices start at £79. Could be worth trying.

4F Hepcat · 2013-07-12 23:48:45

The MTM shirt business in the Hague is a absolute rip-off, you won't find any maestro plying their ill gotten game for less than 200 Euros a pop and some insist on you ordering half-a-dozen.

Sal · 2013-07-13 04:04:59

Kingston1an · 2013-07-13 04:17:20

Ede and Ravenscroft sale is a good source of Made in England shirts at reasonable prices

Bishop of Briggs · 2013-07-14 04:26:47

Bishop of Briggs · 2013-07-14 04:32:11

Kingston1an · 2013-07-14 04:38:34

Oldfruit1 · 2013-07-14 06:19:31

H&K have no label indicating manufacture ANYWHERE in the world

4F Hepcat · 2013-07-14 08:12:07

That´s because they are literally from out of this world, judging by the price and production time!

Oldfruit1 · 2013-07-14 09:19:00

well you got to separate their RTW from their MTM / Bespoke operation .. personally I would never buy a bespoke shirt as I don't like a shirt which is body hugging and unless its hot ALWAYS wear a jacket ... the upside is that in the sale their RTW is all 40% off so a shirt is £60 ... its half T&A which never put anything apart from their weird 1980s multiple stripe shirts in the sale. its a good price, but why are they being so evasive on place of manufacture? where do you guys reckon they are made? I heard they use to make them in Scotland ... ?

perhaps the slave wage capitals of the textile industry .. Tunisia, Bangladesh, Portugal ..

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-07-14 09:19:27)

Bishop of Briggs · 2013-07-14 10:23:54

H&K's shirts were all made in the factory in Glenrothes, Fife. Bizarrely, the labels said "Made in England" vertically on the right hand side of the label. After a complaint to the ASA (IIRC), the label changed to "Made in Gt. Britain". The "made in" part of the label was dropped a few years ago.

AFAIK, the Glenrothes factory still makes the MTM shirts and alters RTW shirts. One salesman still says that the RTW shirts are still made in Scotland. However, I have my doubts as most brands, especially in the clothing sector, are quick to boast about their products being made in the UK. If RTW manufacturing has been outsourced, there are plenty of countries with factories that could deliver the product - Italy, Turkey (Gieves & Hawkes), Malaysia (Brooks Brothers), Thailand (Thomas Pink), China and and India (lots of cloth mills too).

David Reeves · 2013-07-14 13:40:50

My shirts are made in Manchester for me and my clients. Been working with the guy for 15 years since I was 19. He's great but he makes them when he feels like it, always on holiday in Spain he is. Very good shirtmaker though especially in terms of making patterns.

Last edited by David Reeves (2013-07-14 13:41:29)

#1 2009-09-16 14:11:05

Favorite RTW or MTO shirt makes?

#2 2009-09-16 14:59:25

Re: Favorite RTW or MTO shirt makes?

#3 2009-09-16 19:03:23

Re: Favorite RTW or MTO shirt makes?

#4 2009-09-17 15:48:38

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#5 2009-09-18 04:11:56

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#6 2013-07-12 08:51:30

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#7 2013-07-12 15:24:56

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#8 2013-07-12 23:48:45

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#9 2013-07-13 04:04:59

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#10 2013-07-13 04:17:20

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#11 2013-07-14 04:26:47

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#12 2013-07-14 04:32:11

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#13 2013-07-14 04:38:34

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#14 2013-07-14 06:19:31

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#15 2013-07-14 08:12:07

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#16 2013-07-14 09:19:00

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#17 2013-07-14 10:23:54

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#18 2013-07-14 13:40:50

Re: Favorite RTW or MTO shirt makes?

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