what didnt you like about LL - he is after all, of savile row sensibilities himself.

Whah not trah sompin' in dhe cotton-pickin' lahn? An' a hat ter keep yer neck whaiyte?
RR.
kchav and Nasty Big Tony Lurve me too.

To the OP: Any particular reasons why you decided to forsake Chan?

YC,

I will give you my impressions - for what they are worth.

a little context, I had the ED and RA pieces done at approximately the same time.  I actually started the process while on a trip to London.  I went up and down the Row and went to a few different houses that had a style that appealed to me.  I thought it wise, though I might make requests/changes myself to try and at least start with a style that was going to be close to what I wanted.

On this first trip, I selected a fabric with each of them.  ED goes directly to a forward fitting, so there was nothing to do on that end but wait until he made his next US visit.  After inquiring about my schedule, RA had a baste fitting prepared in 2 or 3 days - so, i was able to greatly accelerate the process as a result of this.

The next time I saw either of them was on their US visits.  I am in the SF Bay area so I made it out to NY to see them.  Their trips, from what I recall, coincided with each other so I saw them on the same day again.  This was the forward fitting for both.  Though solely a fitting, I did peruse the swatch books and gave a look to what they had on hand.  There is no question that the selection is smaller than would be in their respective home addresses, however, most of the basics are there (e.g. Lesser books, Harrisons, etc.).

If I remember correctly, that was the last fitting with the ED suit and I received it thru the mail in approx 4-6 weeks.  There was another fitting with RA on another visit and then I received the garment about 2 weeks later.

So, i think the only disadvantages to working remotely with one of the houses is you dont have quite all the fabrics that you would otherwise (though, it should be said, all of my needs would be easily accomodated with what they have on their US visits) and, obviously, it takes longer to receive the finished product, particularly if there are more fittings required than what ED/A&S alumn typically perform.  One additional point on the fabric, both ED and RA have indicated that they will bring whatever fabric one may be interested in - and they have both mailed me swatches of particular fabrics that I was potentially interested in - of course, one must know specifically what one is interested in this case for it to be useful.

As far as impressions on either of them - I definitely got the sense that they are both experts in their chosen schools.  ED appears very much like what I thought an A&S piece would be with, perhaps, just the slightest more emphasis on the chest.  There is, to me, the tiniest bit more swell to the chest than i see from other tailors of that ilk.  He is an exceedingly friendly, down to earth type and I enjoyed chatting with him for a little over an hour on his last visit. I believe he uses many of the same makers that at one time made for A&S and there is a good deal of cross-polination with Thomas Mahon.  Similarly, RA is a very gracious albeit completely different persona.  Richard is much more dynamic and flamboyant.  He is full of energy and a more gregarious type - their differences in cut actually reflect a great deal about their own persona in my mind.

I am no expert on make and such (like so many others on here) but to my ignorant eyes they are both well exectued and well made garments.  There does seem to be something 'different' about the RA make.  The stictching appears more detailed, for example.  I would have to say the RA is a bit higher class of make.

i should note, i also have tried Chan.  For the $ it is an extremely difficult proposition to turn down. It was something on the order of a little over 1/3 the cost of my RA (and for a 3 piece at that).  THe chan to me is pleasant enough, however, it clearly had me searching for more.  The thing about Chan to me is that if one really knows what one is doing, he can execute exceedingly well - and as long as he adheres to his house style, I think he does well.  When generally describing the garment at our first meeting, I indicated a bit higher buttoning point (for example), which he gave me.  In hindsight, i see the point is too high now (which he never indicated was the case).  The balance of the coat is a bit off and there is still a bit of dimple on my lower shoulder (i.e. from the fabric gathering).  But, it does have a pleasing shape and the trousers are a perfect fit.  There is something different about the Chan make compared to both my ED and RA, however.  I dont really know what it is...it is almost lifeless or something.  I suspect it must have to do with the materials used for the inner construction and/or sewing.  It just doesnt move the same way.  I feel like Chan is an excellent value substitute - but i will personally always see it as a substitute.  the expertise is not on the same level that I experienced with ED and RA.

sorry for the long-winded response

actually, one other item I forgot to note.  I did actually consider Poole and Kilgour at the time I was embarking on these pieces - particularly Kilgour.  Rightly or wrongly, I couldnt get past some of the more fashion oriented branding and things they were doing at the time.  I was a little worried about the look I was going to end up with.  Today, I would still be a little concerned just given the upheaval that would come with change.  I dont know if there bespoke is what it once was.

Last edited by ufboy73 (2010-06-29 16:34:18)