This is a bit of a thick question but one I'd appreciate an honest response to.
I had assumed that contemporary Ralph was just useless, a waste of time, for clueless, aspirational, West London rugger buggers with their collars turned up. All that pseudo old money bollocks. You know what I mean? But just recently some serious London Ivy heads have been advising me to check out the flagship on Old Bond Street, assuring me that they still sell some very good stuff indeed, not all made in Bangladesh. They talked about it with some reverence which shocked me out of my fixed stance. So I ask - who shops here? In this specific shop. Because I know that Ralph has been very good at times in the past. I have a Made in USA dark green polo bought in 1989 that is simply indestructible. I have a Made in USA double-breasted, natural shoulder, donegal tweed suit that's about 30 years old and it is the finest item in my wardrobe. So they have potential... Have I been missing out on our very own 346 Madison Avenue experience here? I so hate the building it's in and the bouncer on the door and all the pomp (I always preferred the intimacy of 2 Russell St or 10 Hill Rise) but what should I, what could I, buy here?
g.g.
I usually go here for the sales, as does Rod Stewart. At least he was there one time I was.
Tasteful B&W photographs, studiously artless arrangements of thematically-appropriate books and ephemera, and mostly uninteresting clothes, but there are some good things. It's not a fun or interesting place to shop though, and neither is it truly smart - the supercilious staff aren't nearly knowledgeable or friendly enough for that to be the case.
It's pretty horrible, really, excluding rather than exclusive.
We always scoffed at Ralph - Why buy it when you can buy the real stuff from John's?
But now maybe the joke is on us?
Maybe the problem was, it became - to use that appalling media expression - 'iconic'; not unlike Levi-Strauss etc. etc. Once that happens, well...
Indeed....and the collar, although as Weejun has confirmed on a number of posts, the collar was small on a number makes of authentic BD's in the 60's.
RL is mainly overpriced out sourced production. Give me three white BB OCBD's over the RL equivalent.
The collar roll says it all, there's no other evidence needed.
I don't like too much of RL, but I certainly don't have a problem with their madras shirts when purchased at a reasonable price from TKMaxx or Marshalls.
I've bought a variety over the years....2 & 3 bd's, l/s & s/s, with and without logo, even with a flap breast pocket.
Very comfortable after a few washes.
A work collegue snaffled a couple of RL madras popovers from TKMaxx recently. I've been looking but without any luck, has anyone else seen them?
Nothing in ours this morning, Chris. I went in to look at some Topsiders - plasticy-looking - then had a less than satisfactory shufti through the polo shirts etc. The usual RL that we know and hate; vile Baracuta. I did have a slight yearning, two summers ago, for a lime green number in John Simons - thought better of it.
Klook is spot on about the atmosphere in that store. I only ever go in the sale (and haven't for some years) and I love to annoy the job centre sourced staff by looking too casual for Bond St and then name dropping something random and stupidly expensive that I'd like another copy/pair of and watching them turn into greed lizards thinking of the commission they're about to earn.
My sister in law runs some RL marketing dept based on upper floor and gets 40% discount. Guess how many times I've felt compelled to use it? Yup, never.
But, it's not all bad by any means and when he's good he's good and I'm evidently over fond of saying. You gotta remember those RL Polo playboys that Fred found in Japan. The truth is though that online gives us access to originals even if they are hard to find or 'slightly used'.
And the staff in Brooks Bros too.... the London branches. Just awful. No interest. No feel. Just a depressing place to visit.
TW : a marketing person in RL. I need to contact them about THE IVY LOOK. Do you have a contact name/number etc, if appropriate? PM if there is anything to go on here. Many Thanks.
g.g.
Brooks. Went there two days after they opened. Never went back. JS said they might as well have been selling potatoes.
low-paid retail staff archetypes are a fascination of mine. brooks staff here are like that here, too. oddly, the outlet has a fantastic stooped old jewish guy who shuffles around in an old cardigan with a rumpled tape around his neck. probably actually a retired fireman named pat mccaffrey but the guy has the act down flawless. probably why they stick him in the outlet, out of embarrassment.
as for RL staff, theyre generally severely retarded korean/philipino street racers, when i bother to go into that shithole. jcrew staff are sweetly clueless. burberry staff usually follow me until i leave. oddly enough, landend canvas(sears) is the new hip place for the campily fantabulous element to be employed. which used to be the gap/old navy/BR conglomerate, or fields, until they got bought by macys and thus became a shithole. those places now seem to employ people who had real careers, before the collapse. i need to write a sociology text about this shit.......
At least we Brits can derive some little comfort from the notion things Stateside appear to be as crappy as here. Our local independent retailer is full of hand-washing middle-aged queens and young men of little taste and less knowledge. Offering Gant, Hilfiger, Lauren; cuff-links that quickly fall apart; good socks, but not in my size. This is the best that's on offer. The John Simons experience was worth a journey, even on gruesomely over-priced British railways.
GG - let me know if you want that introduction...
Weejun - yes, but only if it's low hassle for you. I think the publisher has a contact at RL but it might be helpful to have another name in case things get sticky. But don't worry, I understand if there are problems.
Best
g.g.
PM'd you.
This is proving difficult. I'm seeing far too much of it around, invariably worn by the wrong people, who couldn't give a rats' ass whether it's made in China by half-starved orphans or Sri Lanka by the relatives of slaughtered Tamils. Worn wrong, too, with no-mark denim, cheap trainers etc. etc. And that photograph of him in Flusser's book makes me feel ill. The logo has become a badge whereby the fraternity can recognise one another.
I still think, however, that wearing a nice, faded, American-made polo shirt should not be easily despised. Why should the Ivy head be deprived of this simple pleasure? I'll be far more worried when the fuckwits begin wearing Brooks.
They may yet be drawn to Brooks, there are logos on some of the casual shirt range.
I wore white RL button downs a couple of times last week and compared to the BB or Mercers equivalent everything was wrong: collar roll and that awful fit. The baggy part seems reserved for the stomach only.
RL is out sourced shite and we all know it.
It would be nigh impossible for me to abandon Brooks after 32 years of interest. I'd have to think more carefully, though.
Ralph Lauren has taken his brand down the Hackett road - big logos, price hikes, size inconsistencies, quality decreases etc. The only RL garments that I possess are twoi pairs of 100% cotton seersucker swimming trunks.
Brooks Brothers in London is a sick joke - high prices, stupid and indifferent staff, mediocre quality. I prefer Gant which appears to be improving quality to justify high prices.
The best things about RL were the lovely Anthony Edgeworth-photographed ads from the early 80's.