Film Noir Buff Style Forum / Once You Go Bespoke (Shoes), You Won't/Can't Go Back

Marc Grayson · 2006-10-08 20:12:56

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Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-10-14 23:30:21)

Van · 2006-10-08 21:54:30

I heartily agree Marc. I have two pairs of bespokes from Lattanzi and they are magnificent. Fitted by Silvano "the poet" himself. Elegant and more comfy than well-worn sneakers.

Horace · 2006-10-08 22:05:41

Horace · 2006-10-09 05:04:50

edmorel · 2006-10-09 08:33:19

If you find a maker/lasts that fit you well (assuming you have no feet issues), and given the plethora of quality shoes I would think that everyone can find a maker, the fit difference between bespoke and OTR is minimal, at best. Given the bespoke premium, it is an activity that I would only recommend for those with more money than time (or sense ). Would my shoes fit better if I had an extra 1/16 inch in width at the instep and reduced the total length by an 1/8 inch? Probably. Is that worth an extra $1,500-$2,000 above their OTR price? No.

Now, if you are buying the shoes due to the romanticism attached to buying anything made to order to your specifications, than that is a different matter.

There are quite a few mediocre bespoke shoe makers and a few etraordinary ready made manufacturers.

Will · 2006-10-09 12:12:36

I'm happy with Edward Green for the majority of my shoe wardrobe, outlying members of the rotation that tend to be worn fewer than a dozen times a year. The fit is almost as good as bespoke, and while there is a construction difference evident between them and bespoke Cleverleys or Gazianos, it's unlikely to be noticed by anyone who doesn't also spend too much time obsessing over his shoes.

If it's a shoe that I wear twice a month, bespoke is addictive.

richt · 2006-10-09 15:14:34

richt · 2006-10-09 15:20:07

Perhaps good bespoke or good ready-to-wear shoes are always a curse and a blessing, never perfect, always a trial, with ups and downs, pains and pleasures, because of the inevitable and unpredictable changes in both one's anatomy, climate, and terrain.

kenperes · 2006-10-09 15:44:59

I am going to have to call BS on this thread. I have both bespoke and RTW, and the most comfortable are a mix of the two.

Feet, unlike shoulders, change a lot during the day, and a perfectly fitted shoe just is not a reality.

kenperes · 2006-10-09 15:54:05

I travel constantly, so mine swell and unswell a lot. My foot problem probably saves me a lot of money.

Van · 2006-10-09 16:20:00

"If you find a maker/lasts that fit you well (assuming you have no feet issues), and given the plethora of quality shoes I would think that everyone can find a maker, the fit difference between bespoke and OTR is minimal, at best. "

I'm not sure I would agree with this for the simple reason that most people have feet of different or slightly different sizes. Even a good EG of Lobb Paris last can't work for that situation.

richt · 2006-10-09 16:42:40

richt · 2006-10-09 16:44:43

Last edited by richt (2006-10-09 16:48:39)

richt · 2006-10-09 16:47:50

Have you read "Handmade Shoes for Men" by Laszlo Vass & Magda Molnar? I've just started it. It's a bit dry, with an emphasis on history, which is fine with me, but not very helpful in providing answers to the kind of questions we've raised here, at least not yet. Quite a nicely designed book, though. --RT

Last edited by richt (2006-10-09 16:49:27)

jeff · 2006-10-09 18:40:45

I don't want to admit it, because my bank account will thusly be abused, but I agree with you, Marc. I only have one pair of bespoke shoes on my rack now, but they are a revelation. For all RTW shoes, my feet have had to squeeze and adapt to the shoe. Sometimes they fit quite well, but there are always places where the leather compresses my feet even after multiuple wearings should have stretched the leather somewhat or where the heel just seems to give me blisters for some reason. But my bespoke shoes are made to wrap around my foot, a horribly seductive and satisfying concept. I really can't go back. The thought of needlessly cramping my foot into a piece of leather does not appeal to me. We (bespoke obsessives) do not expect our bodies to adapt to a suit, so why should we for shoes, especially when pain only arises from the latter?

Horace · 2006-10-10 06:17:14

Nothing to do with bespoke, but more to fit: I've been wearing bluchers and loafers lately (Alden & Bass) and a pair of wingtips (Alden) on occasion. They all seem to fit well. No complaints.

I wore recently, for the first time in a long time, pair of what I thought were very comfortable shoes. They were cap toe Brooks English, bought when they used to go from something like $180 (or something close I think). I thought they were Peal but I misremembered. Anyway -- always get compliments on them from women (do they no longer see traditional shoes?) but they hurt after about 4 hours.

edmorel · 2006-10-10 08:15:31

edmorel · 2006-10-10 08:20:26

Film Noir Buff · 2006-10-13 06:41:33

I also have a foot that swells a lot during the course of a day. And, as mentioned earlier, shoes are not clothes. A good fit and "give" are harder to achieve.

Mulberrywood · 2006-10-13 15:35:44

Has anyone found a good source for bespoke running shoes and hiking shoes/boots?

Film Noir Buff · 2006-10-13 15:46:07

Horace · 2006-10-13 22:05:29

Last edited by Horace (2006-10-13 22:06:14)

Mulberrywood · 2006-10-14 01:38:55

Horace & Marc,

Thank you. I agree with you about New Balance. Currently I use a New Balance 1122 in the SL2 last EEEEEE.

And its fits very well and is comfortable. It is the only off the shelf running shoe that really fits me.
20 years ago there was a guy named Hershey or sometime like that making custom running shoes. Although I have not ever actually tried his shoes.

I think that I will try a pair of NBs hiking shoes.

FNB thanks for the idea, but those shoes are perhaps not what I meant.....

Horace · 2006-10-14 02:22:23

Cruz Diez · 2006-10-16 10:01:28

#1 2006-10-08 20:12:56

Once You Go Bespoke (Shoes), You Won't/Can't Go Back

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#25 2006-10-16 10:01:28

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