I had mentioned a few years ago a book of the title found in the subject line above.  But I didn't remember any
other bibliographical detail about it.  I found the volume this weekend:

Thomas Girtin, <<Nothing but the Best: The Tradition of English Craftsmen from Edwardian to Elizabethan>> (New York, 1959).

I knew I'd seen it mentioned elsewhere recently, which is probably why my memory was jogged.  Anton lists it in the bibliography to his book by what I presume was the title for the London imprint of the same year:  <<Makers of Distinction:  Suppliers to the Town & Country Gentleman>>,

I very much recommend this book.  It's interesting and well-written and informative.  It looks at the bespoke trades on what may perhaps have been the definite twilight of the Empire.  (That is to say, the Empire may've been shot to shit before that, but the last few years of the decade in which the book was published were rather rough, if my memory of British history serves, & throughout Girtin's book there is a note of elegy -- of melancholy -- about the craftsmanship here coming to an end).  What's particularly fascinating in many of the chapters of Girtin's book is the negotiations of new technology in which the craftsmen found themselves engaged.  Particularly, in say, the chapter on umbrella making.  The chapter on glovemaking also stands out.  There is also the usual talk found about how the Americans are taking more of the bespoke business these days.  And a lament for the "flash" noveaux riches of Britain that the craftsman must now deal with.

There are discussions of suits, shirts, umbrellas, gloves, tobacco and smokers' requisites, hats, carriage making (esp. automobile), wine merchants (Berry Bros. & Rudd is thrown in even though it's not a bespoke venture). Henry Poole, Huntsman, Hawes & Curtis, Swaine, Adeney, Cole, Purdey, Lock, Herbert Johnson, Lobb & Peal, among many others make an appearance.

Fribourg & Treyer, London tobacconists, are also discussed.  Makes me want to place a standing order for a monthly shipment of specialized cigarettes.  F&T, you may recall, has been discussed recently on other forums in connection with Etutee's wonderful new article found here:  http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6205.  I'll type out a few pages from Girtin's treatment of F&T if there's a desire for it.

Anyway, definitely worth finding a copy.  A quick check on bookfinder.com reveals an abundance of copies.

Last edited by Horace (2006-10-26 05:16:35)