I was wondering if I could solicit some advice on RTW shirts from the Jermyn Street makers? There are some threads on other forums about it, but they all seem to be along the lines of “I just have got a job as a law firm trainee. I need to buy 500 light blue shirts. How do Hawks and Curtis Extra-Slim-Fit Non-Iron shirts compare to Turnbull and Asser’s MTM?”, to which the advice given is usually a combination “Turnbull and Asser bespoke is the best” and “why not buy TM Lewin’s?”. There is very little discussion of the smaller places and their ready-to-wear offerings which, alas, is where my financial limits lie.
I was wondering if some of the members here had a bit more experience with the different companies and offer some views on what is good, bad and ugly?
To go through them in no particular order, I quite like the cloths of Harvie and Hudson; nice fabrics with good detailing but their sizing seems a little inconsistent and bit baggy to me (dare I say that I think that TM Lewin sems to have better patterns?). Cheapest of the smaller shops, though, and so quite good value. I find Hilditch and Key similar but the fitting is a bit better, which is what I presume you get for the extra money. They seem a bit too keen on madly cut-away collars, though, which I don’t like. New and Lingwood also has some nice shirts but their prices seem to quite quickly shoot up towards £90-100 which seems to be pushing what a RTW shirt is worth.
I haven’t tried any shirts from places such as Benson and Clegg, Budd or Turnbull and Asser. I’m not sure if the first two offer RTW or how much they charge. As for Turnbull and Asser, the quality always looks quite good, even though their RTW cloths are not particularly interesting. But are their shirts worth £130 each when you could easily buy bespoke (let alone MTM) for that money elsewhere? Perhaps I should try?
Any views would be welcome, as would any suggestions of other ones that I have missed and should be investigating!
Many thanks!
-AJS
Last edited by ajs (2011-06-18 05:31:46)
Yes Harvie & Hudson is inconsistent. Some fabrics are good, some wrinkle if you merely look at them. Sizing is inconsistent. How can wrists be too tight? People do not have fat wrists. Collars are OK no curling.
Lewin shrink badly. They have that major fault where the very tip of the collar curls inwards for some reason.
Hilditch & Key are sound but cost more than the previous two.
Benson & Clegg sell Cleeve shirts but they don't look anything special. Budd charges around £80 to £90 for a shirt. Turnbull and Asser have a unique collar which some love and others hate. I find T&A shirts blousy and the collars are too stiff. At the T&A price point (over £100), I would try Emma Willis.
Most of my shirts over the last 25 years were bought from Hilditch & Key. The classic collar shirts make up over 75% of the stock so I don't understand why you think that they madly keen on cut-away collars. The advantage of H&K is that they offer a good, cheap and fast alterations service. Another is that they offer a decent range of slim fit shirts but they are, in general, not included in the sale. If you are buying a standard spread collar RTW shirt, you can't beat H&K's sale-by-mail which has just started.
You may wish to consider an Ulster firm called Smyth & Gibson - http://www.smythandgibson.com/ They offer MTM, classic fit, slim fit and law shirts. They have a London rep who will visit you in the office or at home. I think that the RTW shirts start at around £80 to £85, the same as Budd & Hilditch & Key.
You could try Stephan Shirts
http://www.bespokeme.com/article.aspx?id=63
http://www.bespokeme.com/article.aspx?id=79
In my opinion the best value shirts in the world. Made in Cyprus, they make a lot for the British Military. Minimum order of 1. I got Erlend to make 1 up, I washed and wore it half a dozen times. Then we looked at it and altered shirts 2 - 7 accordingly. They do all the usual, different inside collar and cuffs (no charge), left cuff bigger than the right, single cuff, double cuff etc. They will charge a few quid extra if you want MOP buttons. And Erlend himself will replace the collar and cuffs himself!
Stonking vlue at 69 quid, and you can pay 50% on order and 50% on delivery, which is usually about 5 weeks
I've bought a couple of shirts from them. Not as good as Sean O'Flynn but they are about 50% the price. Careful of post-washing shrinkage if you go for an Oxford cloth though. They also do mtm suits and MensFlair is running an ongoing feature/puff by someone who is in the process of having one made.
The area near the shop is a bit of a dump (which may explain why they keep the door locked and you have to ring to get in) but there's an interesting looking C20th art gallery and a cigar shop round the corner, both of which I keep meaning to visit sometime.
Would go to T&A for rtw shirts .. quality of manafacture, good service and choice of all patterns make it worth it.
Would avoid Budd, there's a reason they hardly have any customers, very little choice in patterns and materials .. rude and unhelpful manager (Rowley) .. its a miracle they are still in business operating like this.
The free market is working as it should .. two companies which are operating in the same tier of the market .. one has become a resounding success because of their business practise while the other is suffers as a result of piss poor service to the customer.
oldfruit
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-02-03 03:57:55)
^ Due to recent disappointment with Hilditch & Key, I considered RTW from Budd and Turnbull & Asser. Both firm's cut were far too big on the body and T&A's collar felt stiff. T&A's RTW prices now start at £145 compared to £190 at Emma Willis.
Grosvenor Shirts' classic RTW could be worth a try. They are made in the UK (Northern Ireland IIRC) and cost £95. Does anyone have experience of this firm?
Budd service is much more than awful, the manager Mr Rowley is probably one of the most rude shop assistants ive ever had the displeasure to meet .. he has apparantly worked at Budd for 30 years .. i cant work out how someone can work in a customer facing role for decades and have developed no basic grace and manners over this time, its quite unbelievable (perhaps doing the job for 30 years is the reason he's so frustrated!?).
This has reminded me that i have to go back when im next in the area .. not to buy anything but for some free entertainment watching Rowley spit feathers as he reprimands anyone foolish enough to wander into the shop from the arcade. Infact if shirt making isnt for Budd anymore (& looking at the amount of customers they get apart from the odd stray tourist its not going great) they could do a fly on the wall documentary and sell the rights to channel 4 .. it would be like a modern 'Are you being served' but without the laughs.
fruity
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-02-03 05:51:33)
this is amusing .. nick foulkes writing a puff piece on Budd .. but reading between the lines it seems they are rude even to him (he talks about the cutter who ive never used as ive only bought RTW) .. at least now i know its nothing personal, its just institutional & habitual english rudeness at its finest.
'I rang up to congratulate Mr Rowley at Budd and asked him to pass on my good wishes to Mr Butcher, who cuts the bespoke patterns by way of a hobby to divert him from his true professional role of frightening the customers.'
http://howtospendit.ft.com/style/2477-swellboy-on-a-bastion-of-shirtmaking
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-02-03 06:10:50)
FNB .. you get shirts .. probably not in your size or a pattern you really wanted .. and then get sent off with a flea in your ear !
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-02-03 11:41:17)
Maybe Mr. Rowley was on an off day, but last week my daughter went to Budd and found him charming and helpful. She loved loved one of fabrics he showed her and since they are imminently making a run of RTW shirts with that fabric, I shall have it soon.
She loved the experience so much, she is bringing her boyfriend along to Budd on their next trip.
Everything I'm reading here is so contrary to my daughter's experience.
I have found Paulfrederick.com shirts good and long lasting especially the poplin. All necks and sleeve lengths. Get them when they go on sale for like USD20-30.