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#1 2006-03-27 15:03:01
- padawan
- Member
- From: NYC
- Posts: 100
Shirtings
Atam, FNB, et al,
Is there a strong correlation between the shirting manufacturers and the quality of the product - e.g. are all Alumo or SIC fabrics good?
How would you rank the top manufacturers?
#2 2006-03-27 22:13:46
- manicturncoat
- Member
- From: Paris, France
- Posts: 45
Re: Shirtings
I have many shirts made with Riva cloth and it is truly exceptional, particularly the linen.
#3 2006-03-28 01:17:01
- manicturncoat
- Member
- From: Paris, France
- Posts: 45
Re: Shirtings
I was told by the man who sells me the Riva cloths that the reason that the linen is so fine and special is because it is woven on a silk loom. I don't know anything aboth textile production and the veracity of this claim, what I do know is that I have never worn another linen shirt cloth that is so fine and has the characteristics of cotton and that can be worn comfortably as a dress shirt with a suit or jacket.
#4 2006-03-28 04:51:03
- padawan
- Member
- From: NYC
- Posts: 100
Re: Shirtings
How would Acorn, Albini, Alumo, Bonfamti, SIC, Thomas Mason and any other big names I am forgetting stack up against each other?
#5 2006-03-28 06:40:21
- Shirtmaven
- Member
- From: NYC
- Posts: 50
Re: Shirtings
Acorn is a converter or distributer.They do not own their own weaving facilities.
They use other mills to manufature to their specs.
Thomas mason is a name owned by Albini. Albini makes some vry good fabrics. They are the largest of the Italian shirting mills. They do outsource weaving to other smaller mills. The quality is good overall.
Alumo makes wonderful shirting fabrics.
Sic tess also is great. Very expensive.
I do not know anything about Bonfamti
Carl
www.cego.com
#7 2006-03-28 08:37:36
- manicturncoat
- Member
- From: Paris, France
- Posts: 45
Re: Shirtings
Marc, Thank you for the in depth explanation. All this talk of Riva cloths has got me all excited for the upcoming warmer weather and the new batch of summer shirts on the way.
#10 2006-03-28 20:14:25
- beantown
- Member
- Posts: 55
Re: Shirtings
cruz, if I am not mistaken Mimo is your shirtmaker also. Have you been equally as pleased. I find it a positive that Sr. Sviglia is not inclined to jump online and foray into the various fora.I respectfully think that albini cloth, while industrially produced and not a luxury cloth is a very serviceable for bespoke shirts. I f one wants to venture into luxury than alumo, riva,s.i.c.tess, atelier romentino, the often overlooked Oltolina and the much smaller Bonfanti are the options. The number of design options change once you make this step as the cost and lack of supported ranges make this a finer but less varied choice. You might be interested to know that among the largest users of Riva cloth in the world of ready to wear is Stefano Ricci. He of the intersting color designs.
#11 2006-03-29 10:13:51
- TinkerTailorCPA
- Member
- Posts: 21
Re: Shirtings
Marc, Besides owning many Mimmo Siviglia shirts from Riva fabrics, I purchased a boat from Riva Boats upon their recent reentry into the U.S. market.
200 Nino Corvato custom suits + 500 Mimmo Siviglia shirts + 50 prs JL Paris bespoke shoes = a Riva Boat.
#13 2006-03-29 11:02:57
- TinkerTailorCPA
- Member
- Posts: 21
Re: Shirtings
BraceBack Mountain, Probably over the last 20 years Nino has made me about 150 suits / sport jackets. Nino began to use the keyhole buttonhole about five years ago ( I think). I was unaware of the change until speaking with AAAC members.
It is a style detail I can take or leave. The workmanship as well as fit are top notch. Also, Nino is a great guy.
BTW, Raphael also makes great custom clothing.
#14 2006-03-29 11:13:28
- BraceBack Mountain
- Member
- Posts: 105
Re: Shirtings
Last edited by BraceBack Mountain (2006-03-29 12:39:52)
#15 2006-03-29 12:34:32
- TinkerTailorCPA
- Member
- Posts: 21
Re: Shirtings
BraceBack Mountain, Forget about what what you have read about "inferior tailoring" or "questionable taste". You need to" take with a grain of salt" whatever you read or heard about different tailors, including my opinion. Go and visit Corvato, Raphael etc. and make your own decision.
One picture is worth more than a thousand words.
#18 2006-03-30 09:59:56
- BraceBack Mountain
- Member
- Posts: 105
Re: Shirtings
Last edited by BraceBack Mountain (2006-11-29 09:52:46)
#21 2006-03-30 21:06:31
- Incroyable
- Member
- Posts: 2310
Re: Shirtings
I love the beauty of the vintage mechanisms with their burnished finishes and quality workmanship. It's nice to see them still being put to work instead of in some stagnant position.
Jukebox Babe
#23 2006-03-31 16:33:52
- Junior Astaire
- Moderator
- Posts: 271
Re: Shirtings
Terfific contribution. It is obvious to me that Manton has no problem sticking his foot in his mouth.