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#1 2006-12-22 22:19:40

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

I'm popping by 346 to get some MTM Oxfords BD's.  I've noticed they've got this "heritage pink" oxford cloth -- looks & feels like close to the real old stuff.  A pretty damn nice contrast of white and pink fibers.  Just the right amount, I'd say.

I'd be interested in hearing experiences that any of you have had with the MTM program.  a)  Is it possible to have shirts made on pre-1965 patterns?  b) How specific can you get with the length of the BD collar. c) I was told that the oxford cloth is either American or Italian made.  Is this true?  I understood that the Americans weren't making an oxford cloth anymore.  d)  Does Brooks use any English cloths for their shirts?  If so, do they have any English Supima-like oxford or only the pinpoint.

Additionally, I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who might have a pre-1965 and a 1965-1975 Brooks shirt lying around.  I'd really appreciate a measurement or two off the shirt.  Would you please e-mail or PM me or post in this thread?  I've got some other questions as well. 

Thanks so much.

H.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#2 2007-01-04 14:39:48

Cantabrigian
Member
Posts: 232

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Brooks MTM is extremely inflexible when it comes to shirts.  If you want something copied, you are better off taking it to a real shirtmaker.

 

#3 2007-01-04 16:08:45

Camlot
New member
Posts: 9

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Hi Horace !

What can I look up for You?
It happens that I have  lying around a few old Brooks-Brothers-Makers BDs of my late father.
He deceased in 1980 and had been in NYC in 1968 for the first time, so the shirts must be from  between 1968 and 1978, his last visit there.

"Servus" from Graz, Austria

CAMLOT

Last edited by Camlot (2007-01-04 16:09:59)

 

#4 2007-01-04 23:37:52

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#5 2007-01-04 23:39:03

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#6 2007-01-05 08:36:38

Cantabrigian
Member
Posts: 232

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Not even close.  They go off some standard pattern that allows you to select sizes for several different parts of the shirt.  I have a 16.25 neck, a 15.5 yoke, a 15 chest and so on - i.e. the yoke that would be found on a standard size 15.5 shirt, etc.

They have a button down option - which I think they call 'traditional' or something like that - which is very similar to the collar on their current production OCBD.

I imagine you can specify how full you want the shirt but if the OCBDs of yesteryear were very full cut, then you should probably just get one off the rack.

I'm planning on trying Geneva in the next little while and one of the initial shirts I order will probably be an OCBD with Charvet tails.  I think that's the way to go if you want something out of the very ordinary.

You may also check out some of the offerings from Individualized Shirts - the best incarnation of which is probably at the Oxxford store.

 

#7 2007-01-05 09:38:11

bosthist
Member
Posts: 220

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Horace:

You may wish to give Bobby from Boston a call.  He has one of the best vintage shops I've ever seen and does period wardrobe for movies on occasion.  It wouldn't surprise me if he can get you exactly what you want. 

His number is:

617-423-9299

 

#8 2007-01-05 11:12:23

edmorel
Member
Posts: 194

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Tom Davies, who does the MTM shirt measuring/ordering at 346, is a wonderful human being. Wears great British suits (he likes to keep that quiet). The BB MTM program though, is garbage.

 

#9 2007-01-05 14:22:07

jsprowls9
Member
From: Denver, CO
Posts: 250

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

 

#10 2007-01-06 23:25:37

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#11 2007-01-06 23:27:41

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#12 2007-01-07 01:33:02

stylestudent
Member
From: michigan
Posts: 205

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Horace,

You might want to read the following SF threads: New Brooks Bros MTM program; Brooks Bro's quality; "individualized shirts" including in particular Mark Seitelman's comments. I don't have Brooks MTM shirts, but the RTW quality appears far inferior to my Individualized/Bergdorf MTM. Izzy will make up Individualized/Y'Apre shirts for less than what Brooks charges. Individualized offers a "University" 3 3/8" BD collar. There is no supima fabric selection, however (I use the royal oxford). I recall Shirtmaven's comments about the demise of the Brooks Dan River supima. I wonder if the Brooks supima shirt of the '60s had plastic buttons.

Regards,

Steven

 

#13 2007-01-07 05:45:38

Camlot
New member
Posts: 9

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Last edited by Camlot (2007-01-07 05:50:50)

 

#14 2007-01-07 05:48:23

rsmeyer
Member
From: Chevy Chase, MD
Posts: 751

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

My experience with the BB MTM shirts-other than a few decent buttondowns-has been poor. Fused and poorly fitting collars, less than quality workmanship.

 

#15 2007-01-07 07:32:23

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,877608,00.html


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#16 2007-01-09 06:33:09

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Dear Camlot -- much thanks.  With your info. (and when you can, pics would be doubly great) and another comrade who's sent me (and is sending) me some info, I should begin to get this sorted out.  Thanks to to everyone else who's offered their opinions, and to Grayson for that article.  I found a few other articles, but unfortunately, I can't access them on-line in text, so I'll either transcribe or post the PDF's when I can.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#17 2007-01-09 06:37:41

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#18 2007-01-09 07:50:35

stylestudent
Member
From: michigan
Posts: 205

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Hello Horace,

The blue Individualized royal oxford I use for my button-downs looks like the Thomas Mason fabric shown on the Ask Andy shirt fabric tutorial: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Tutorials/AlexShirtFabrics.htm. It has more texture than the Brooks supima but is slightly less heavy. I wear the fabric year-round (but not with lightweight smooth summer fabrics). It's also available in white and pink. You can see the fabrics at Bergdorf.

If I had fewer shirts, I'd probably try out Paris or Geneva on a trip to New York. FNB posted pictures here of the Paris button-down for $200-$250, which looked good. I can't imagine paying $150 plus for a Brooks MTM (or most any MTM at this price).

Regards,

Steven

 

#19 2007-01-09 08:51:29

edmorel
Member
Posts: 194

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

 

#20 2007-01-09 11:13:00

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Great thread.
I've been reading & learning but not posting as I have no input here.
I think THIS is the stuff that needs recording along with old Press cuts and anything else like that.
The REALITY of the history of these clothes is very important these days I think.
Telling it like it was/is.

Thanks to all -

D.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

#21 2007-01-10 00:42:04

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#22 2007-01-10 06:24:51

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

I notice that the more recent incarnation (of the last what? 5 years) of Brooks BD's with the red label claims Supima fabric, but it's "imported".  I thought all Supima was US fabric?

Edit:  I might've answered my own question:  I checked supima.com -- perhaps raw material sold to several places.  I wonder what the Italian and Japanese mills do with it.  Some look promising.  One guy at Brooks told me that the Supima in the RTW shirt is Italian.

Last edited by Horace (2007-01-10 06:49:28)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#23 2007-01-10 08:21:13

Camlot
New member
Posts: 9

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

 

#24 2007-01-11 01:31:25

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#25 2007-01-11 03:07:03

Terry Lean
Member
Posts: 2440

Re: Brooks Brothers MTM Shirts

Oddly I only like the basic stuff. The rest looks too shiny & sheeny for me. Equally I like flannel more than very refined worsteds as long as the flannel isn't too shiny.
Only personal taste, but I just prefer matt to gloss.


"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"

 

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