My opinion of certain areas of Corvato’s style and workmanship:


1. No buttonholes on single breasted peak Lapel, lapel. I had a real struggle over this one. I finally won but not until exhaustion began to set in. Although, it wasn’t a complete victory because he managed to not put one on the lapel of the two SB dinner jackets he made for me (I don’t usually like satin facings but the one he carries is substantial and very matte in Luster, and the midnight blue version matched the midnight blue of the mini self-herringbone fabric I had the dinner jacket made from) and I can live with it because it gives the jacket lapel a rich unspoiled surface.

2. Also with dinner jackets, he likes to put the satin/grosgrain on the waist of the pants, which I hate (except maybe on a downtown tuxedo) and it takes a little discussion to right this boat. However as things change, I am starting to think on a DB dinner jacket's pants this is OK.

3. He makes summer jackets looser, ostensibly to create more air circulation or some such, but I don’t like it, and he's had to reign a couple of jackets in for me. Not a big deal but in a world where time is tight...

4. His belief in fitted clothing can sometimes make something that’s supposed to be ample and comfy too Milanese/Romanesque, but come to think of it, this is a bad side effect of an excellent habit. I like the Milanese clean look over the Anderson sloppy look any day. But still, if you’re going to layer under a Shetland sports coat you have to let him know beforehand.

5. He chooses light linings for the sleeves and pants thigh of open weave dark fabrics, which doesn’t look good, but this can be changed easily.

6. His Drive to match is good for buttonhole threads but not for linings, a bit boring even for me.

7. I don’t like the buttons he chooses about 50% of the time. Though, I’m a stickler for buttons and maybe that’s my problem. I sometimes dislike the buttons he envisions for the garment, always ask to see a selection and don’t just let him choose the buttons, unless you don’t know what you’re doing in which case do let him choose the buttons.

8. He can develop a little bit of the Jeeves to my Wooster attitude whereby he will make something outrageous for another customer but refuse to make it for me. This isn’t as insolent as it sounds, we have a very familiar working relationship and he's usually right, I just thought it was amusing to include here.

9. Some outside observers don’t like those teardrop keyhole boutonnieres. Nino will put these on your jacket automatically if you don’t specify. They can only be made by hand and are a signature of his genius. They signify to the cognoscenti that you are part of the club. It is to my discredit that only I and a friend of mine has ever asked him not to put one in a jacket lapel. Oh well, even I have lapses in good taste. This boutonniere will make you more of an individual. If you haven’t the confidence to stand on your own, then you are forewarned!

10. He can make a single piece back on soft goods that looks superb, I’ve never seen this done right before, he can do it.

11. His jackets never move when unbuttoned, which means his patterns are excellent.

12. He will make anything you want and his genius in design will come up with solutions I never considered.

13. Suits are so comfortable and well made you will never want to wear anything else, which is expensive. You must take his things to a quality dry cleaners or some hand steaming laundry to be cleaned and pressed. If you think Nino's stuff is good when you first get it, you won’t believe how it responds to age, you will wear these things until they fall off of your body.

14. The design of his double breasted jackets is so dashing I feel like a 30s movie star in them and its a wonder I don’t have more of them.

15. He makes vests like no one else and i went from fearing 3 piece suits to embracing them.

16. He makes a great English back for pants.

17. Shoulders and lapels are perfect; pants are very comfortable with not a hint of sloppiness.

18. He matches patterns up nicely, not always "perfectly", but artistically.

Those are the ones that sprang to mind; I haven’t really pondered what he does that much because i just accept that I like his things.

I linked it to AAAC for you. I believe some over there will be glad to know a little more about this tailor.

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60225

That blue coat is simply an amazing garment.

Last edited by Cantabrigian (2006-10-18 13:42:27)

Who was that other tailor, if we may inquire?

In any case, these garments look absolutely stunning. Were I in the bespoke market (which, sadly, Mrs. Teacher wouldn't care for), Corvato and Despos would probably be the ones I'd be scouting most seriously.

That blue coat appears to have some influence from the Brooks natural shoulder?  I know that Corvato worked for Brooks bespoke service until the end, no?  It'd be nice to have some more information on that.  An interview would be grand.

Picture after picture, Mr Corvato seems to consistantly deliver a great fitting suit. But l still don't think a broad check pattern (l don't know all the fancy terms) suits a larger man.....makes him appear larger than he really is. l still think Mr Corvato does marvelous work for larger men (from the great pictures i've seen)

Good thread.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-03-24 12:30:35)