Looks like you got an awesome fabric for that, and the front placket is a good choice. How's the fit? In my experience, "crows foot" stitches and similar adornments the iGents get so excited about are irrelevant after one becomes familiar with the fit, fabric, comfort and collar style of a truly great, handmade (which is different from what iGents understand as "handwork") shirt.
Yep, I agree with what you write about what really matters in a bespoke shirt.. I confess I opted for the crowfoot for aesthetic reasons, but one of the ladies at the workshop (all but familiar with internet clothes fora I bet), explained to me that this traditional method has its own 'raison d'etre', a better distribution of tension between the button and the fabric.
The fit is great, expecially at the collar. The best gyraffe/tab I ever worn. And so confortable, in spite of apparences. Some minor adjustments, required by my posture, will be fixed after two or three wearings.
quirky shirt mate.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2010-03-02 03:31:35)
Rounded Tab collar and Bond cuffs?
I like the color.
Any interesting points from your conversation with the maker?
Yeah, it's a Mod thing, not everybody's cup of tea I guess. I like the way the rounded cuffs 'flow' with the round collar.
Color is really appealing, much more in flesh than in photos, and the fabric has a discreet silky hand and sheen.
Points in conversation with the Maestro: mainly covering shirtmaking process and tecniques in general (meaning of effective handworks to tell what is functional to what is purely decorative, or even worse, a fad or a status-symbol, costruction of collars and cuffs with various kinds of lining, etc, the choice of buttons that actually complement the shirt instead of the recent frenzy for super thick buttons, how a French placket is built, the original functional role of some sartorial details that today are made just for style's sake like pleats on the sleeves'roll, etc.) and suggestion about how to get what I wanted (i.e. a slightly extended shoulder would have worked better with my generally narrow natural shouldered jackets, or a more 'ancient' type of tab that would have kept the collar in place better than those generally adopted, if I was keen to take that little more time required to fast it properly, and so on).
It's also interesting the idea of checking the shirt after a bit of wearing to search and fix undue tensions or wrinkles or similar. Only after this step they start working on client's other shirts.
Cool.
The diagonal placement of the collar buttons is similar to the approach taken by my shirtmaker. Most just place the buttons vertically on top of each other making it difficult to button.
Is that turquoise colored? What kind of cufflinks would you put with that? Orange accented ones?
^ It would be a nice touch;-).. but this cuffs have buttons!
Mark: yes the diagonal buttons' stance makes it easier.
This shirt requires a bit more efforts and patience to fasten the tabs: both of the tabs have a buttonhole and they both button to the lower collarband's button.
The 'pro' is a cleaner look and a tieknot that sits flatter on the shirt, without pulling the collar's wings like sometimes happens with 'normal' tabs.
Last edited by Daniele (2010-03-15 08:51:34)