...in the wonderful 12 Angry Men. How does this fit into the Ivy orthodoxy? I think it's a great look - very loose unstructured, very natural shoulder, linen or linen/cotton mix, patch pockets, 3 to 2 roll, wide lapels, pleated very high waisted trousers, very neat tennis point collar, shoes hard to discern, a lace up of some description. For 1957 this strikes me as a very progressive look blending American with an almost Italian sensibility. There is none of the Anglo you normally see in Ivy League. Was this suit made for Fonda? Was its unforced, very easy, soft, comfortable look meant to express elements of Fonda's liberal politics and gentle personality in the film? There are other more obvious quintessentially 'Ivy' characters and looks in the rest of the cast - the horn-rim specs and knitted tie on the Madison Avenue ad-man, the tab and neater Ivy-ish suit on the Wall Street stockbroker - but I think Fonda's look here still looks fresh and modern. Any one else have any insights into what this outfit is all about? I'd post a picture up but have forgotten the code, again...
GG
Thanks Patrick. I can't believe this suit was MADE for Fonda ; this is anti-tailoring, it's almost Armani. If not then who was making suits like this in mid-50s America?
GG
I could certainly be wrong, but the fabric looks like pincord in that first pic.
some more 60s style pics in this thread:
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5382
with a lot of great stuff from Carpu!
BTW, there's some talk over there in The Wardrobe forum about a "real" Neapolitan style and very easy, unstructured jackets:
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?pid=152298#p152298
most posters over there hate it...
There's also some threads on Rubinacci and other Italian topics...
Most interesting move would be if we can get FNBs tailor to talk about the similarities of American and Italian style, I guess... I think someone described his style as somewhere between Brooks and Caraceni....
So what about Ivy down South or "Southern trad" ?
Anti-tailoring in the 1950s similar to 1980s high fashion/ designer gear?
Traditional or avant-garde?
Ahead of its time or just standard men's clothes of its time and place?
A good costume department job or Fonda's own suit?
Last edited by Russell...Street (2013-06-05 06:56:03)
Hard to follow the discourse for the clothes. Great stuff.
Italian... then Henry Fonda... who could resist?