I've started to appreciate more and more, the baggier cut. Although what would be baggy on me wouldn't be baggy on a lot of other guys. Like Woolster I'm that awful combination of short and slim which makes trying to look like and American Ivy leaguer, or an Astronaut or Steve McQueen pretty much impossible. The baggier cut can help to add an illusion of stockyness.

I take a xs/s generally and I'm a true 36, pushing 37 when I'm working harder and put on some beef. I think a shirt that's 40inch all the way round is the perfect amount of baggy. Would anyone suggest this isn't baggy in an Ivy context? Am I still thinking the mod I was?

I suppose it's difficult to bring together a wide enough range of shirts to compare and contrast.  Troy Guild were lovely and soft.  In the past I've worn Arrow, Hathaway, Sero, Lion Of Troy, Truval - and others.  I began with Brooks, though, and I think I'll end it in the same way.

reg = trad

I've had success in sizing up in the BB slims, a 15 1/2 collar in slim instead of 15 trad.. Gives you you bit more in the body and shoulders, and I really need the 15 1/2 to be able to comfortably button the top button anyhow.

Nobody doing that most i-gently of warfare operations, the 'military tuck' then?

The problem with makers is if you go with neck size, in my case 16, they come up huge in the chest.