Last edited by Drink (2011-12-27 13:56:46)
Fucking hell there's a 66-page recently updated thread on gunboats on The Other Side. I'll see what I can learn from that, check my terminology etc. Also, hope I didn't sound disrespectful of shamrockthingy in my original post. I liked his point in regard to plain toes and he seems knowledgable in general.
Those Aldens are the business man. I gotta get me some plain-toes.
yeah, the plaintoe is a more understated look. seems to go better with the more hardcore ivy, the tweedy look that john gall called "sexless" or something to that effect. yet still a serious shoe for the working week.
the longwing is by far my favorite style, but its "ivy" almost by accident....longwings were common before the ivy boom and were more widespread than the hardcore ivy style even at its height. when 2/3 sacks exploded on the market, every american male over 25 already had a pair of them. they also were distributed far, far outside the reach of the ivy look.....they were worn with every suit style from big-shouldered Bold Looks to darted 2-buttons.
the plain blucher is rarer (the gunboat blucher type that is) you tend to see them only in the better makes, and in areas/eras coexisting with the classic natural sack look. florsheim didnt sell 1,000,000 pairs of cordovan plaintoes, which i suspect they did in the longwing style, from approx 1944 to 1990.
weejuns are casual slippers and though they have their appeal, ive never seen what the big deal is. the gibson is mature, understated, yet more relaxed than a pair of peal captoes or the like. the quintessential ivy shoe.
nettletons did a beautiful version. the nettleton brogue is almost too dressy, too "english" looking for me, but their gibson was spot on. heikki re-posted his a few days ago. for a decently comfortable shoe to kick the shit out of, i highly recommend the loake 772t (or whatever, the one they sell alongside the royals). they are indestructible.
Florsheims at one point were the best selling brand of shoes in the USA, one every four second or something. They even get a mention in Art Pepper's autobiography. I would challenge that loafers are at the centre of Ivy style shoe wise; other brogues and the saddle oxford are worthy challengers. Loafers don't cut it as an all season shoe, certainly not on the East Coast.
I've a pair of plain toe vintage Nettletons, and they're good. Can't compare them with the Alden's as I haven't a pair, but in my opinion, cordovan often works best on plain toe. The Alden traditional saddle oxford is magnificent and really brings the qualities of the cordovan leather to the fore. Much more so that their Longwings, which are pale in comparison.
Loake did a bargain version (As they still do with a American styled longwing called Royals, but not the original Ivy Shop Royals...) that had the look on a shoe string. Not sure if they still have them in production. Black & Burgindy, made in England of ordinary calf.
'Smooths', 'G.I.s', 'Plain-toes', call them what you will are deeply Ivy. One original Ivy Shopper from '69 on Facebook was telling me that they were THE shoe back in the day for The Look as worn when shopping up Richmond Hill by him & his chums. Then came Longwings and lastly Loafers.
I like the style a lot.
Jim
Last edited by The_Shooman (2011-12-28 03:11:58)
Listen to my mate Shooey.
If style is your thing then you'll never beat his always well evaluated knowledge.
- Jimmy.
Thanks mate. My childhood nose was always a good one. Kids notice stuff, so much of my knowledge comes from back then, that's why shoos are such good things...brings me back to the big exciting dreams of my childhood.
l became addicted to stitched footwear from 3 - 6 months old according to my folks. Always wanted the good ones for as long as l could remember. l remember being so frustrated at not owning Loake when l was 3 years old, l always wanted to be like my old man and wear grown ups shoos....always pulled out his goodyear welted pairs from under the bed to check `em out and dream of being a man. Soon as my feet stopped growing (13 - 14) l never stopped buyin' `em.
l only wanted goodyear welted shoos with leather soles from the youngest age.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2011-12-28 04:29:09)
/\ 'A Real Styler' is the term we now use down Hunky Dory for all of this.
Real, rare and radical.
Jim
Loakes have often been poo-pooed on the forum so it's good to see them get the thumbs up from Shooey and Shamrock. Their top end shoes are up there with the best. Smooths do need to have to have a good chunky sole like these ones:
http://www.loake.co.uk/Shop/Products.aspx?Catalog=Loake+Catalog+GBP&ProductID=771(Loake+Catalog)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2011-12-28 05:08:27)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2011-12-28 05:18:42)
This is what TI is about! Thank you everybody for the input.
The "how to dress Ivy" stuff I've read that was written in the 50s and 60s mentions plain-toes as much as loafers and longwings, usually with the word "cordovan" before "plain toe". I might go for Loake. I get the impression I'm in a different tax bracket to plenty of people here, but I don't mind paying for what I consider decent. I only want one proper pair of shoes! I don't own any, just a few boots (playboys, desert, chukka etc) and Sperry and Converse. The thing is, in the same way that I feel I only deserve my Specialized rather than a Condor because I don't cycle or care or know enough about bikes, I'm not sure I deserve Alden, as the first thing I'd want is for them to become worn and dull. I need to meditate on this!
Funny how when we all talk about our joint passion things improve...
QED.
Save up for Loake and save up for shell cordovan Alden and then wear them as much as possible. Life is too short not to enjoy some good shoes. You will be able to wear them for a long time. Aim to wear them until they can't be repaired any longer...wear `em until they fall apart. Buy one good pair a year. Once you buy a good quality pair that fits you will be hooked. Go to a shop, get fitted properly and pay full price for the Loake and Alden.
Now you know what to do Drink. l think it's time you did it.
Don't save you good shoos for special occasions, wear `em as much as you can, but give each pair a days rest in between or even two days rest. Don't buy one pair, buy two pair!
Last edited by The_Shooman (2011-12-28 07:52:25)
Can I just say - this thread is fucking epic boys! Those crepe soled smooths posted by Patrick are a particular highlight. Those, and Shooey's passionate input (boy, did he start young!) are giving me lots of inspiration. TI at it's best.