I've lifted this phrase from 'Ivy Style'. It's intended as a kind of compliment. I really, really like the phrase and the idea behind it, which is beautifully anti-mod. To put it at its simplest, it's about holding onto clothes and shoes until they more or less disintegrate. I have a number of favourites right now: a navy Pendleton cardigan with welted and lined pockets and fraying cuffs; an expensive Paul Stuart cashmere sweater, beginning to suffer somewhat; L.L. Bean jeans; the Dexter bucks Jeff Garet sold me, with their worn-down red brick soles. It's make do and mend; it's part and parcel of the collegiate Ivy philosophy.
You know I'm all for this. More Hobo, than Boho.
Neither hobo or boho - or feigned 'old money', either. Just how to wear your favourite old clothes and shoes without worry or undue pride: with naturalness.
Yes, just like a Hobo.
In all seriousness good clothes deserve to be worn to extinction, and then just a little while longer.
Even with frayed cuffs and collars, the amusing part is that you will look better than the cargo shorts-trainers- t shirt crowd and still draw the comment, "Why are you all dressed up?"
I know what you're getting at and it's one of things i never got about mod. Clothes take on a certain quality only when they stop looking new. They also sit better after one wear out of the machine. It's the relaxed look that sits with me best. Even Sta Prest look as good(not neccessarily better but a different sort of good)when the crease has been soften with a couple of wears.
Modern plasticy weejuns don't get that lived in look that other loafers develop. It's a great failing.
This mind set and strategy was oft employed by members of the British upper classes who post-war would dress either by choice or deliberately to save money to heat their stately pads, in old hand-me-downs or buy only one pair of John Lobb shoes, but by the gods they are going to last me forty years.
In the old public schools and also in the prep schools in the US, the boys sought to wear old family watches and their brother's old shoes.
New = the unfulfilled class aspirations of the petit-bourgeoisie or worse, the vulgarity of the nouveau riche.
As the consumer society has reached its inevitable peak and perhaps we are the vanguards of its decline, the new - at least in clothes terms - is tainted with cheapness and inferiority to what was produced before. New items are regarded as suspect in that they may only last a season and be manufactured in unpleasant conditions for all concerned. The new item has absorbed this negative vibe in its DNA.
A quality of beat and aged patinas in all things is now becoming a value in our culture: the aesthetics of the frayed and lived in commands respect and is a lead signifier of authenticity.
I understand - and genuinely appreciate - the original mod aesthetic: clean living under difficult circumstances. Perhaps we now have clean living under rather less difficult circumstances: instant hot water, plenty of fresh clothing etc. I even understand the interest in bespoke - as long as it lasts. As for modern Weejuns, the only answer is: do nothing much with them; wear them as a yard shoe. If you want better, try old Sebago, Florsheim, Cole Haan etc. Try cordovan.
I cannot put it better than Hepcat ^
'Beater' came from Tradland online years ago & was how we talked about the everyday or anything not 'best'. A 'beater watch' was most commonly talked about - A Timex on a G10 strap rather than a 'dress' watch.
'Beater' can indeed mean your old stuff, but can also be applied to new stuff bought cheaply to be trashed. Everyday Ivy just for living in, with scuffs, scratches and snags.
It really just means your second best or third best stuff just for knocking around in. I'm a fan.
J.
^ Thanks for that. I know nothing of 'Tradland'. I'm wearing what has become my standard 'beater' clothing: L.L. Bean flannel shirt and jeans. Some polo shirts or even Madras shirts go beneath the flannel. Anthony Perkins, in that wonderful photograph taken with Patrizia Mangano in 'Hollywood And The Ivy Look', looks as if he is wearing 'beater' Alden!
Frayed cuffs, threadbare trews with maybe a broken zip fly and a cheeky hole on the left knee, shirts with worn out collars, dessies with bald suede patches on the toes. Lets chuck in a few holes in the knitwear as well. Some sort of stain down that vintage jacket from Help The Aged, would be kinda cool in a "I don't give a fuck, its an el natural ting" way as well.
I mean, who wants to be like everyone else dossing around in a shit pair of distressed jeans, trackie top and trainers when you can look so much better without any effort.
Horses for courses, Simon. Second and third best. Our suits, though, are IVY, not from our Neapolitan tailors.
You've gotta love great hand produced Italian tailoring though. And great English tailoring as well. Where would IVY be without the European templates?
I used to play cricket with a guy who worn the same clobber he went to work in (market trader-fruit & veg) as he'd go out in. Just washed clean. He had no second or third best, or first. Just worn clothes.
I love it in theory. The European templates? That raises an interesting point. Great English tailoring? Well: natural shoulder. But IVY has many manifestations. It constantly surprises me.
No offence, but there is absolutely no doubt whatever in my mind that some (like Simon) either don't get it or don't want to get it.
Bespoke certainly cannot be ruled out - if you have the wherewithal - but Ivy certainly can - and maybe in some cases should be - cheap and cheerful: available in malls, online, wherever.
Not only 'beater' - Ivy per se.
'Patina' is the missing word here. Maybe ?
I don't - but I won't be seen in public in jeans (say) with a hole in the knee. The clothing is always - I repeat always - clean. Look: you have to be on a particular wavelength. Some on here know it when they see it and will acknowledge it with a smile or a nod. Others simply don't know it, either because they are committed to something other (bespoke) or cannot shake off the curse of 'mod'.
LOL! They have a hole in one knee, inexpertly patched by my wife. Ivy and 'mod' remain at opposite ends of the spectrum.