Stiff or what? The conservatism of Madison Avenue. White shirts, dark suits, sensible shoes. Leave pink to the legal fraternity.
The conservatism of the creatives of Madison Avene once upon a time is a fascinating area which as been so little looked at. A bit like with Jazz musicians too - For whom all we really have is later supposition or individual cases attempting to speak for the whole.
Did Jazzers wear Ivy in a bid to be taken seriously while playing college gigs? Some say yes. I say it was just a fashion on the whole. Jazz has always had waves of fashion running through it.
Why did the Ad men of Madison adopt Ivy? Very few of them came from an Ivy college. The bullshit merchants would probably say it was to give their new profession more credibility. Pretty much it's the same theory as to why Jazzers wore Ivy.
But that's all too simple and dumb an answer to account for the whole of The (three piece) Madison Avenue Look.
Fashion. I think you're right. Take Miles. Re 'Mad Men', when the writers want to present a 'radical', they give him a beard and slightly more outlandish clothing - oh, and a pipe. Isn't Campbell's tailoring Anglo-influenced?
I'd say. For all the Mad Men talk that there once was, Ivy was very thin on the ground in that show. Rightly or wrongly.
Where was the "Plastic-fantatsic, button-down Madison Avenue Look" ?
David Ogilvy & all that.
I think there is a strong case for saying that the MJQ, oft ignored here I think, were playing with modes of dress and music not really meant 'for the likes of them'. Their sobriety startles, yet I always detected a twinkle in Milt Jackson's eye, taking deep pleasure in their subversion.
Don Draper never wears a button-down in the series. Some of the younger characters sport intermittent Ivy, but the power players are not wearing it at all.
The jazz musicians definitely followed fashion and moved on into the 70s with all the ugly and pretentious style mistakes of that era in abundance. Two obvious ones: Miles and Evans. If it was all about seriousness and integrity, they wouldn't have made that detour into a sartorial cul-de-sac of kitsch embarrassment.
In one of Miles' biographies and perhaps, even in his autobiography there is mention of dressing in Ivy to avoid being picked-up by the cops. Burroughs followed the same strategy of dressing like a banker to avoid being frisked by narc-cops.
Not sure Hepcat. EVERYONE went mental in the late 60s. It changed within a year. Bill Evans in 66 looked cool. By 68 he was a yeti. Things are so fragmented today we have no sense of these huge shifts in taste that swept everybody up. If you had a side-parting and straight trousers on in 1970 you did not get laid. The fear of being 'straight' was all pervasive. The culture we all love was all but wiped out by the hipster notion of being an outsider, rejecting the mores of 'the man', not looking like a suit etc..
I also think DD wears a half-sleeve plaid weekend b/d in one of the first two series, perhaps while working the BBQ and chatting up that foxy teacher he ends up banging?
I don't recall Don wearing a button-down, but I was drinking too much whisky when I watched the first couple of series, so I'm probably wrong.
Aye, there's no real common culture now as regards fashion, music and taste. Remember when a Bond film on television or what was on Top of Pops would illicit conversation the next day? Back when there was only three channels and everyone had access to the same thing. It's difficult for anything to have such an impact today, as everyone is busy cutting their own swathe through the forest.
I remember an old boss of mine saying it was great when the hippy movement came, as to him, it liberated fashion from the suit and tie. Here's a very Ivy Buckley and a very drunken and close to the end Kerouac disowning the hippies:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaBnIzY3R00&feature=related
Last edited by 4F Hepcat (2012-06-18 04:59:49)
That is some programme. I'm all for much of what the hippies care(d) about. I just hate that whole aesthetic. That said, Buckley is pretty rigidly 'correct' here and looks terrible - plastic and stiff. Despite his vulgar drunkenness there is a touching sincerity about Kerouac. I like his emphasis on piety and purity.
Piety, purity and - I'm afraid, according to at least one of his biographers - paedophilia, as he attempted to lighten his mood by screwing twelve-year old Mexican girls. That said, I would give a finger for that exquisite old Pan copy of 'On The Road'. Maybe - just maybe - what the hippies cared about was articulated by Adlai Stevenson round about the time of the '52 Election (though he was, in some respects, a reactionary). Watching 'Mad Men' led me to 'Madison Avenue USA', the works of Vance Packard and - key - Betty Friedan's 'The Feminine Mystique'. I also delved back into 'Esquire'. Anyone recall just what Pete Campbell's old man was wearing?
If memory serves correctly, Pete's dad appeared in one episode only, wearing boat shoes, madras shorts, a white button-down, and a pale yellow jacket.
Sounds right.
It was the out of office hours stuff I looked forward to most, done building the playhouse in chinos and a fitted white tee, the sports jackets sported by guests and colleagues at bbqs etc.
Cannot remember any specific footwear in the above scenes, would of loved to see a weejun or pf flyer of sorts.
Don Draper is seen at one point wearing my burgundy Robert Bruce pullover.
I hope he returned it to you in good condition.
There's a few errors in the series as well on the watch front. Don starts off wearing correct vintage of the era: Omega and Jaeger Le Coutre. But I read with horror in the later series he is wearing a Rolex Explorer with a steel bracelet which was a definite no-no in the US at the time amongst the middle classes and above. It gets worse as the Explorer he sports is not even genuine vintage, it is the new version which is substantially redesigned and larger than the 60s version.
The kind of error that can spoil someone's enjoyment. Like all those movies set in 1940 but feature late 60s hairstyles. 'Mad Men' seemed to be doing so well, for a high class soap opera. I'm looking forward to seeing more of the lovely Megan, having grown a bit fed up with sulky Betty.
^I can never get enough of Joanie myself......
Just remember: I saw her first. John Gall and I almost came to blows over her last week. We were rolling in the gutter near the 'Barley Mow'. John Simons had to come over and seperate us... We've made it up and agreed to share her, alternate weekends.