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#2976 2012-08-29 00:49:09

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Last edited by fxh (2012-08-29 00:56:42)

 

#2977 2012-08-29 00:55:07

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

 

#2978 2012-08-29 09:52:35

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#2979 2012-08-29 09:59:12

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#2980 2012-08-29 10:05:29

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#2981 2012-08-29 18:06:39

prince nez
Member
Posts: 371

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

 

#2982 2012-08-29 18:17:28

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Last edited by fxh (2012-08-29 18:17:50)

 

#2983 2012-08-29 18:20:14

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

A few more Barims over on SF would make it interesting.

Theres too many young blokes trying to look like old guys - just in clothes too tight and too short.

Barims is about the only one who seems to have any idea of style

 

#2984 2012-08-29 20:50:28

David Reeves
Member
From: New York
Posts: 307

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong


REEVES
http://www.reeves-nyc.com
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/davidreevesbespoke/?hl=en

 

#2985 2012-08-29 22:15:09

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I'm not so much interested in who - although gossip is always tasty - but how and why its gone wrong. Also interest to see that bespoke doesn't always work out perfect. I'm not much interested in taking the piss or mocking. It seems like a good use of a forum.

I think hes or someone tried to mix and match style too much - Pagoda shoulders need a  complete silhouette and fit of suit to work. I'm no expert (but I am reasonably experienced in typing on the internet) but I'd say that bloke needs a longer jacket - the first jacket looks as if its had 3 " just cut out of the middle and hoicked everything up. Fiddling about and trying to undo the pagoda shoulders doesn't seem like a good idea

Those photos look like someone has had a fiddle with photoshop or something and tried to sharpen the edges or some manipulation and it might not have been a good idea. He really needs better pictures.

He looks like he might do better with narrower trousers. Although his RTW looks ok.

Ignoring the details, which I suspect is perhaps his or his tailors  problem, too much attention to detail and not enough to overall gestalt. Hes tried to mix in details, soft shoulder, pagoda shoulder , short jacket without a coherent aesthetic (can I use that word here?) or an understanding of how each element must fit in an overall look and feel.

I'm also not sure what exactly he means by pagoda shoulder - does he mean that real exaggerated look that I think Bowie or Roxy Music had on some suits or does he mean just a hint of a sweep and valley in the shoulder - or something in between?

We need more detail of the back story.

Perhaps Barims is suffering from that with his tailor /bespoke suit too? Perhaps the tailor is not familiar making the sort of stuff Barims has been wearing.

Comparing Barims other stuff with the dissatisfied bespoke bloke above I see the reason Barims look works is that he seems to understand what he is going for and has a coherence overall. Plus perhaps he also has the body type too that fits in well with those vintage suits and not look all Fedora Lounge costume.

I'm wondering if the above bloke really wanted a roped shoulder and said pagoda thinking they either go together or were the same thing?

Last edited by fxh (2012-08-29 22:19:59)

 

#2986 2012-08-29 22:21:45

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

 

#2987 2012-08-29 22:27:02

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

One of the few Internet people who's opinion I'd trust Jeffery Diduch. Although it may be the downfall of many an iGent who reads his information and absorbs detail but not design and then goes on to instruct their tailor in excessive micro detail.

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com.au/search?q=pagoda

 

#2988 2012-08-30 06:22:48

Nemesis
Member
Posts: 439

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong


Back with a vengeance.

 

#2989 2012-08-30 08:08:16

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

oh yeah sator -  too no question

 

#2990 2012-08-30 08:19:58

xenon1
Member
Posts: 234

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I posted on that thread.  Despite the fact that we know bespoke can produce alot of misses, is there really any doubt that the fault is the client's in this case!

And bespoke is a learning experience, one that can hone your observation skills very quickly. You learn very quickly what to focus on and what details to ignore. Your also learn about house style and not to deviate from it and that tailors are not magicians. It's one huge quickly delivered reality check. For those inclined, it's a perfect test to see if client (like myself) has any taste at all. In my case it allowed me to test my theories about how to acheive the vision in my mind.

HOWEVER, if clients don't have a vision or specific tastes/aesthetic they can communicate, then bepoke should NOT be a learning experience.

In this case client learned he needs help, alot of it.

 

#2991 2012-08-30 08:41:43

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

True, it is very easy to mess up bespoke clothing when you are new to it.

 

#2992 2012-08-30 11:03:32

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Last edited by formby (2012-08-30 11:18:16)


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#2993 2012-08-30 13:08:32

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#2994 2012-09-01 03:56:13

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

http://christiankimber.tumblr.com/post/25659046261/via-t-t-l-g

not sure if bespoke but would be interested in thoughts ..

 

#2995 2012-09-01 11:07:30

David Reeves
Member
From: New York
Posts: 307

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong


REEVES
http://www.reeves-nyc.com
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/davidreevesbespoke/?hl=en

 

#2996 2012-09-01 14:27:08

Chévere
Member
From: Baltimore
Posts: 856

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Last edited by Chévere (2012-09-02 07:49:01)


Cógelo suave, pero cógelo.

 

#2997 2012-09-02 09:39:36

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

 

#2998 2012-09-02 09:55:03

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

I've had drinks with him - hes ok - bringing out a line of shoes.

http://christiankimber.tumblr.com/

 

#2999 2012-09-02 18:37:49

Chévere
Member
From: Baltimore
Posts: 856

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

^ FXH
He may be Ok, I was just riffing on a picture. Maybe he should hire Shooey as a consultant.


Cógelo suave, pero cógelo.

 

#3000 2012-09-14 10:44:07

Avgvstvs
Member
Posts: 100

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

 

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