I remember sitting in a John Simons Est 1955 Marketing meeting around two years ago... I alone had the foresight to bring along a Vodka and Tonic kindly bought by John down the Barley Mow into the meeting as I hadn't quite finished it off yet...
There we sat around the table, me next to Paul, as much was said...
Afterwards I went back in the shop with Paul & the first thing he said was that there he'd sat looking around the table and most of the people present had shoulders up to their ears. Paul (Keydge), Jason Jules (Vintage Cricketeer) and I (Vintage no-name Harris Tweed) alone wore Natural Shoulder style. He shook his head, " And these are the people who want to represent us?" he asked. Within weeks the Marketing team was no more and instead there was the JS way of doing things back in place again - John, Paul, me, and friends who wanted to help out, the uber-talented Jason amongst them.
Jeff Garet asked the most pertinent question of the old proto- JS Marketing team - "Do you think they understand the culture?" No, was the most I could manage to say in reply.
Shoulders matter.
Best -
... All of which begs the question 'What is the Culture of Ivy in London?'
And the answer is that it's purely one of quality and style. The wearers of The Look are too diverse to sum them up in any more specific way. Yes, some are Modernists, but very few are Mods, and beyond them you have the majority: The Great Unclassifiables.
Rarity is prized, that's a common bond, and also the enjoyment of a 'diferent' aesthetic when compared to run-of-the-mill English style.
The style's early champions in London were a mix of Jazz fans, Modernists and also the Working Class - But none of those elements define the wearers of the style en-masse today.
It's a 'sophisticated' taste in London perhaps, but one which plays with what the notion of that means - It isn't silk shirts and velvet. It's being 'in the know' about certain cuts, fabrics and styling details.
And it has no Upper Class connotations or links to Higher Education - England already has its own wardrobes for those things which American Ivy was based on in origin. Ivy is classless in England because it doesn't fit into English society at all. It's an alien mutation.
After various ups and downs in my life I am once again a Public School Marketing Executive, albeit part time & looking forward to some kind of retirement now.
Mr. John Gall remains at heart, I think, a Working Class Modernist. He'll have to correct me if I'm wrong.
Nothing in common with each other whatsoever beyond Ivy. A very nice example of the reality of Ivy in my city, and John's adopted city, of London.
God bless us every one !
... Dear me, this thread has strayed more than a little, hasn't it?
... But I do wish that Americans (Whom I love) wouldn't try to play with notions of class when they interact with 'The Old World' as they do on the World Wide Web. It really is the weakest hand they have to play. Trust me, Europe invented snobbery, you won't beat us on it.
... And a testament to how good we are at snobbery is that the Ameicans tried to copy that from us too with their not-quite-right copies of English clothes and Universities...
Save it for America. It really doesn't work beyond your shores.
Best -
^ This is merely an exercise in dialectics though Sammy, am I right?
The notion that the wearer brings class to the clothes is correct but highly limited - it can be extended only a little way before its veracity breaches.
Worzel in a dinner jacket is an inspired example, by the way - From both our points of view...
Worzel is Worzel and ever more shall be so. The Dinner jacket is certainly a status item, but not from Worzel's world.
Worzel would gain a 'classier' appearance by adopting the status symbols of his world - Maybe a few crow feathers in his hat? A 'Tux' means nothing on him.
Thus an American can wear Ivy and look classier and an Englishman can wear Ivy and look suddenly 'other', somehow out of the class system sartorially speaking.
Reversing this, an Englishman will look classier in a good English suit of London Cut, but an American will look like he's all 'dressed up'... Or not, until he opens his mouth to speak in his twangy voice or displays his disgusting table manners... Then he'll look like a Yank all gussied up in English style.
- While an Englishman may well look all gussied DOWN in Ivy style... As he sits there making good with his knife and fork... A credit to Mummy & Nanny !
An aside: When Americans wear English style:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgzEBLa3PPk
Considering how rude the online Americans have often been about the English who like Ivy it might be fun to tweak the noses of the Americans who like English style for a change... ?????
How dare they !
Last edited by Sammy Ambrose (2012-11-12 08:16:20)
You can over analyse stuff, or worry about things that nobody much cares about any more. The William Wardrobe route.
Plus you are talking to a small band who might actually care - people who get their trahseez tapered - not just taken up, but tapered,