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#1 2014-08-17 07:57:51

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Bel & Cie in Geneva (not Barcelona),

Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg,

Bruno's, Zürich

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How come they are largely ignored by the "Journalists", Menswear "Experts" and other skumbags?


http://www.tagesanzeiger.ch/zuerich/stadt/Der-Ausstatter-der-Koenige/story/14016335#clicked0.8825410332065076

http://entartetemusik.blogspot.de/2012/02/more-english-than-english.html

I also like Charvet but they have been "discovered" by Simon Cunton and others already.

Staben in Hamburg is now a Pal Zileri outlet.


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Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people sell RTW and MTM Brioni and Kiton.
They always have an in-house MTM offer, and exhibit Loro Piana and Scabal fabric swatches in the shop window.
They sell umbrellas, walking sticks and opera canes.
Cashmere and vicuna are big items, cashmere preferrably in canary yellow.
Knize comes to mind as well.
And Knize-like EdC, e.g. Spanish Leather, Eurcis etc

Last edited by Beestonplace (2014-08-17 08:05:05)


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#2 2014-09-21 04:21:43

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

This needs a little bump to encourage enlighted comments,


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#3 2014-09-21 05:49:52

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

The Germans are grossly underrated on the style front, but I think that's the way they like it. Always a pleasure to go there and I will be there on Tuesday!


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#4 2014-09-24 02:20:57

Alen123
New member
Posts: 1

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Cashmere and vicuna are big items, cashmere preferrably in canary yellow.


Hun laao

 

#5 2014-09-27 11:13:14

The Absintheist
Member
Posts: 189

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

My main gripe with non- and semi-sartorialist shops, especially in Zurich, is how they go about business with a mix of misconceived style rules and plain cluelessness. Things are hugely overpriced and usually not top of the crop. Of course there's always the odd pleasant surprise!

 

#6 2015-04-20 14:07:33

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Push


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#7 2015-04-22 13:15:47

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Its Bel Y Cia and its the same company as the store in Barcelona. I've been in the Barcelona store and its the best shop for quality I've ever been in. Every item is top notch. Their trade mark piece is the Teba jacket which they made for the count of Teba as a type of hunting jacket. They can make MTM (as is their suiting) or you can buy off the rail, sleeves are unfinished. I fell in love with a green one in cashmere which was €800. Sadly it was too short in the body. I was kinda reluctant to have it MTM and shipped to me without trying it on. Always my first port of call when I'm in Barcelona and I always get a couple of their knitted ties. They have the best selection of knits I've ever seen. Wrapped in tissue paper and boxed before being bagged. I do like a good box. Their cashmere 1/2 zips are another highlight for me. Shirts are lush as well, lots of hand work, again MTM is on offer which starts at €400. If I recall correct their label is in all the garments but the shoes are Edward Green. Service is very old school. Great shop. Though they pissed my mates dad off when he called to collect something and they rang his wife and asked her if she'd sent her "driver". He now refuses to shop there. Theres a womans Bel Y Cia next door, in Barcelona.


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#8 2015-04-22 13:25:48

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

http://belycia.com/collection/gentlemen/


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#9 2015-04-22 13:39:54

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people


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#10 2015-04-26 14:10:26

TakasakiJeff
Member
From: UK
Posts: 63

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

I was in Ludwig Reiter a few weeks ago in Vienna.

Seems quite low profile (though I understand there is one in London as of recently) and was sorely tempted, but after I had lashed out for boots for the wife I felt disinclined to spend further.

Anyone had experience of their men's product...?

Last edited by TakasakiJeff (2015-04-26 14:11:26)

 

#11 2015-05-08 21:59:17

comrade
New member
From: palo alto, CA
Posts: 9

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

I own two pairs of Ludwig Reiter " Spitzderbies" in Suede and Water Buffalo leather purchased at
their main shop in Vienna in 2005. I am an extremely difficult fit- I wear 4E running shoes. Vass
was unable to fit me in Budapest. I had the same result in Vienna including Balint- magnificent
shoes RTW and of course bespoke. However, at Ludwig Reiter, one last worked. After almost 10 years
the shoes show almost no wear. Full disclosure: I am retired and don't wear dress shoes every day.
Nevertheless, these shoes are very high quality. I was back in Austria last October and planned to
buy a couple more pairs. But as luck would have it "my last" was discontinued and they no
longer were able to fit me. I am still considering their offer to do a special make up in the discontinued
last. However, I prefer to try on shoes when I buy them. If one likes traditional "Mitteleuropa" style
and exceptional quality, Ludwig Reiter is a great choice. Also, their customer service, at least in
Vienna, is excellent.

 

#12 2016-11-12 14:07:07

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Been to Geneva recently, had a big laugh when looked in the "Billionaire" shop window.


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#13 2016-11-12 14:25:20

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

I'm at a loss, What's an old school rich person...?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#14 2016-11-12 14:49:10

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

The opposite of dot com cyberspace rich persons


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#15 2016-11-12 15:08:27

doghouse
Member
Posts: 5147

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people


Hide thy infants, hide thy Lady, and hide thy husband, alas they art forcing sexual intercourse upon the entire populace. - Wm Shakespeare

 

#16 2016-11-12 15:11:48

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Do you believe that old school rich people were a model of restraint...?

If so, you need to take a walk around Blenheim Palace, or any, country house for that matter...

They are not, models of restraint. Ditto the mansions that the Vanderbilt's, Whitney's, Astor's et al built in NYC...

The rich, in all periods, have always flaunted their wealth...nouveau or not.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#17 2016-11-12 15:22:28

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Did i say that? Dont suggest things I have not said.


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#18 2016-11-12 15:33:49

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Its implicit.

Why do you think I asked you to clarify your definition...?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#19 2016-11-12 16:03:43

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

i curse you


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#20 2016-11-12 16:06:38

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Funny, Mrs F. does the same thing...

...so,it its any consolation, you're not on your own wink


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#21 2016-11-13 23:57:09

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

F.G. Van Den Heuvel near the Dutch parliament:

http://www.fgvandenheuvel.nl/

Despite it's proximity to where the politicians are, you won't find them in here, they shop for their suits and ties at Pelger and Oger around the corner.

F.G. Van Den Heuvel caters for the discerning ambassador, special envoys, high level embassy staff, the King and those working on prime choice commissions, Human Rights courts and other UN and EU sponsored organisations where you don't pay any tax.


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#22 2016-11-15 14:28:17

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

yeah, those people. the 55+ years crowd, the ones
who still wear canary yellow v neck sleeveless jumpers, blackwatch trousers and the like


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#23 2016-11-16 00:01:05

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Indeed, spot on! You can also get proper mustard yellow trousers and the like.

It's interesting 25 years ago, just about, every small town would have had such a menswear establishment. Some of them catering to the less affluent, but what remains now are only the top-notch ones whose clientele when they buy something are looking to get two decades or three worth of wear out of it. For them, the vagaries of fashion is something horrid and to be frowned upon. They would be aghast at the iGent mutation, especially the pants they sport. Likely there's still these places in the more rural and pleasing parts of the north, places like Beverley and Harrogate.

Excellent places to shop if you know what you are doing, to the uninitiated they can be maze and intimidating. Case in point, F.G. Van Den Heuvel have a serious range of ties and have a selection and not just a few, of ties that are in style and quality could be Hermes. I defy anyone, without looking at the label, with the tie in a knot being worn who could tell the difference. The cost, a mere €65-75. Well worth it.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#24 2016-11-16 00:34:13

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

The long established university towns often have a decent mens outfitters like Arthur Shepherd in Cambridge. They get a certain amount of business by stocking college colours and badged sports gear and also offer quality menswear. The savvy ones are developing their online business too.


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#25 2016-11-16 00:36:24

Beestonplace
Member
Posts: 1926

Re: Non-sartorialist shops, serving old school rich people

Also in / near the Dorchester, there are some very expensive boutiques with questionable clothes. "Italian" style. Actually I thought Rubinacci would be one of them.


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