It's not Oger, which leaves one or two. I'm not going to say which one in case I breach a confident. But I would imagine that's where the Dutch MP's are going now.
And clearly I meant Oger when I referred to the reinvention as a MTM business suit tailor.
My Missus really digs sales and will likely put off buying something until it is reduced. Indeed, I think she feels guilty if she pays full-whack. The exception is M&S, but then again that's hardly haute couture.
With the death of real urgent seasonal and extremes of fashion, it seems to me better than ever to target buying in sales - if you can.
Available?
So, when it comes to Boxing Day sales - have resisted successfully so far.
But I will order a few classic non-sale T&As with button cuffs next week, to replace that PRL tat in my wardrobe.
^ There were some wearable T and A in your 'clown' shirts post. They were still dear at sale prices. So I am not sure why you would buy the non sale stuff.
I thought you were a Hilditch and Key man.
Which ones are "wearable"?
I am looking for the very classic stuff - bengals and ginghams in the very traditional patterns (white+ blue, light blue, the right shade of pink, maybe lilac). For me, it is about perfection, not quantity or saving money. T&A's collar is fantastic - amazing how a few centimetres of fabric can make such a difference.
H&K is still fine - although I am slightly irritated as they have sent me a few of their "old" (= light blue label) shirts when on their website these were advertised with a blue label. H&K's double cuff shirts are nice, but the "Classic" range lacks a few classics. T&A simply gets it right.
I did buy a William Lockie merino v-neck in one of the hues of blue. I wore it yesterday and the missus was most complementary about the look I had. Which included one of the Savile Row white shirts from M&S. I might get some more v-necks from this make. However, I didn't get the standard, these had been redesigned for the Dutch market by the tailor, which I thoroughly concurred with. The standard ones had short arms and plenty of room for stout Brits.
Although the M&S premier shirts fit quite well, the cloth isn't up to it and after a couple of washes the inferiority and limited lifespan of the shirts become very apparent.
Send Lockie an e-mail and ask them about it. They're extremely helpful and willing to make things possible.
Only available in 15 inch....
FNB, in case you havent read the whole thread: I was pointing our fellow forum members towards T&A's sale of clown shirts. Someone said that there were some which you can actually wear without looking like Krusty the Klown. But even those are not wearable for me. I simply buy from T&A's "classic" range which fits superb off the peg. Done.
The lifetime list of superb things which I have bought at regular prices because there is no sale for these:
- C&J Audley handgrades
- Patharella navy blue long socks
- Zimmerli white cotton underwear
- Cordings fawn Covert coat
- T&A classic shirts
- Red or blue Hermes ties (printed and woven)
- Rolex and Patek watches
- SABs briefcases
- Brigg and Fox umbrellas
There are a few things which CAN be bought in sale, but rarely and not with a great discount:
- Cordings/Pakeman Catto Carter suits
- Hilditch & Key classic shirts
- Cordings lambswool knitwear
These items still look decent and never "last season".
Word.
And then there are things which are "almost there", "seasonal", "fashionable". or simply cheap, and people are mainly attracted due to "deals".
- Bottom of the barrel Jermyn Street "shirtmakers" (Lewin, Thryhyhyht, Hawking & Curtis, Pink)
- Loake
- Ferragamo and everything you can buy at airports and/or outlet "villages"
- Polo Ralph Lauren
And it goes on an on....
Traditional after shaves (Trumpers, Floris) vs. "Designer Brands" (Armani's latest)
London Westend/Frankfurt Westend/Hamburg-Blankenese vs. the latest "up and coming" trendy quarters
High quality cuisine (Wiltons/The Chat Botte/4 Jahreszeiten Grill) vs. the lastest pulled pork/whatever streetfood fad
Good bicycles vs. hipster bicycles
and so on.
The good staff is never cheap, never "on sale", and for a good reason. If things have an intrinsic quality, you dont need discount coupons to sell them.
Unless someone wants to tell me that I am living in a bubble and C&Js are in fact of the same quality like Loakes and I am just a fanboy...
Well, nice try and clickbait. But, as a proper Christian, I will forgive you. Because you dont know me. I have lived a FNB-like satorial life for over 15 years, buying tat and "stuff that gets you noticed" and 5-for100GBP deals and the like. Hell, I even "trifted" once (a Burberry trenchcoat which never really fit, in hindsight I think it was a womens coat).
My own "dress aesthetic", as you call it, is easy to explain:
It is based on strict Realism. As in: Whatever you wear, it will not change who you are. Neither will you become an interesting person (by dressing like a "creative", i.e. all in black, or with a lot of colourful items), not a member of the (preferrably British) "upper class" (by dressing like the lovechild of Bertie Wooster and Sherlock Holmes). And there are many other examples (branded clothing, dressing in 1970ies youth culture - Mods, Skinheads, going retro - be it "trad" or "steampunk"). It is all fun and nice, but hey, its only clothing, not a lifestyle.
So, my "dress aethestic" is primarily focussed on: quality/longlivety of the garment, and suitability (with regards to the person who wears it, and the general circumstances). I am also quite impressed by timeless items, things which have proven to survive fashion trends. Furthermore, there are some things which easily make men look good (a simple but well-cut navy blue 2B SB suit, a top quality white or light blue shirt with a collar which corresponds to the wearer's face, high quality black oxfords).
So, I am not easily impressed by "pulling a stunt" and dressing in an overly obvious way. I am indeed impressed by men who know what suits them AND the occasion, and who "impress by not trying to impress".
As mentioned many times, it is a cultural thing. And I understand very well that in the U.S., in certain parts of the U.S., in certain demographics and industry sectors, there is a tendency to be a bit more "in your face". NCY is a big town. The financial industry is cut-throat. Young men on their way up ( a concept that is not as popular over here as it is over there) may feel a need to "get noticed" or to "stand out". Even here, in certain circles the young (and the very old - the same who make a point by not looking left and right when crossing the street) feel the need to wear red socks with a suit and so on.
But, if you have travelled a bit, and have gone beyond sightseeing ("Europe in 5 days") and have tried to get acquainted with our local cultures, you may have noticed that things are indeed a bit different. Although a cliché, the blog "Italian Industrialists and Intellectuals" nicely shows a different way of expressing ones culture, quite a good example not only for Italy (although they are the best at it). In the aristocratic world of Catholic/Southern Germany, Austria and some parts of Italy (Südtirol) you will notice a tendency for very subdued colours. Or, a dinner in Paris. Even I struggle to keep up with the French and their witty, across-the-table, eclectic conversations in which Chuck Mcnamara from Ohio, or Jerry Goldenstein from NYC, and their "Here is my car, my boat, my house - and how much do YOU make per year" attitude would sink like a leaden duck.
And so on. The world is bigger than Manhattan. Although nothing is wrong with Manhattan in general; I would have loved to be there in the 1930ies.
I have spent a lot of money for, yes, shitty clothes. And, over the course of the years, I have found out what I really like AND what suits me. That is a very small selection, but that stuff makes me look like a million dollars, if you pardon the brash expression.
I am who I am - but in the U.S., there is a certain way of life that is aimed at "self improvement", "climbing the ladder" and so on. Here, things are a bit more static, but it is not for me (or you) to judge. Here (very generalized) we do not try to "become a better person" or to spiral upwards socially. If that is a good or bad thing - I dont know. But it might explain a certain attitude to clothing, behaviour and life in general.
And I know who I am. Even if you would dress me in Costco or Walmart "slacks" and poloshirts, my social circle would be the same, my upbringing, my lineage, my values. People know me, have known us for generations. I dont have to "get noticed", and you will find with rather closely knit society in many parts of Europe. The U.S. is a huge country, and cities like NCY are melting pots. I once read an article on dating in NCY, and how you basically have to triple date because everyone flakes on you. I would not survive a single day in that culture, for sure.
And you? Sometimes, when in London, I am rubbing shoulders (involuntarily) with brash, loud U.S. males. Last time at Wiltons, when having lunch at the bar. Sorry to generalize, but many of them dont know how to dress, have little to say when not (loudly) discussing business or the Nicks, and convey a weird mixture of overconfidence and awkwardness. When they "dress", they usually go all the way, getting it all wrong. The soft-spoken, restrained American, concious of his surroundings - I would love to meet one.
So, people and clothes who dont shout - the world could be a nice place.
Maybe, FNB, you should travel a bit more. Come to Europe, but not for a business trip. I am sure Heppy and I would be glad to meet you.
Yeah...the smaller shop is the best. And Clifford - need to think about it. A bit too bright for me.
Clifford isnt available any more. I am eying the tan Barrington, but hesitate for a good reason. Paging Hepcat....
Audley I bought was in antique tan for the German market. Dark brown would have been better.
Clifford was the best shoe C&J offered. I think they are running down the 337 last for no good reason. Change for change sake.
Yes at some point they had a few pairs branded for Alt-Wien on sale.
I thinks C&J are doing it right.