A nice number for the phenomenon that is A Fine Sadness to have reached so very quickly. Self-effacing and exhibiting an impressive intellectual curiosity, AFM has certainly done admirable work trying to breath life into this dinosaur of a website. And 501 - well, it's a number that resonates so very much. Remember in the late 70s/early 80s when good Levis were just called '501s' and selvedge Levis (I got my first pair mail order from an ad in the back of the NME - what a magazine that was - back in 1980) were called 'Redline' or 'Red tag' ? We live in a golden age for great denim, spoilt for choice. Expensive but worth every penny if, like me, blue jeans are the default trouser. Most of what LVC make is excellent (the 1947 my particular favourite) and Edwin Nashville are very good, particularly the old Made in Japan ones. Mine bought from Interstate (RIP - what a shop that was) back in the day. I've also bought some great jeans from a London maker, based in Walthamstow - Blackhorse Lane Atelier. With taste, and, normally, money, clothes can still bring great joy.
Kind words from a poster I have admired unreservedly since his old 'Toffeeman' days when I was a silly novice on here. Some will remember me as RRP - 'Really Relentless Poster' as Woof wittily put it.
Nothing would have been achieved during the past few weeks without the kindly assistance of Gibson, Yuca, Woof, Robbie, Mark, Uncle Ian etc. Even Horace and Patrick have peeked in. And now we have Skipper.
Indebted to you all.
I have happy memories of buying 501s for 10p in 1978. A local boxing club was about to hold a jumble sale and I got to root through a box of old clothes. Of course, in 1978 10p bought you a champagne supper for two at the Savoy Grill, a taxi home, luxury chocolates and there was still a tip for the flunkey who held your coat.
Back to jeans. I found, well after imported Levis were difficult to come by without travelling, that Ebay provided inexpensive but quite reasonable L.L. Bean; including flannel-lined for the chillier months. My father wore Levis - usually teamed with a polo shirt and boat shoes - until he died at the age of seventy eight. He would not have bothered, though, what colour tag they had or where they were made. Racing cycles, hi-fi equipment, fishing rods and jazz were what his money went on.
I cannot bring myself even to wear a denim shirt now.
I used to live in 501s. But I always felt something wasn't right with them. If only I'd known about selvedge I could have been so much better dressed.
I found a pair of selvedge Wranglers for an ok price on Ebay earlier this year. My first jeans for years. I must admit it's a good feeling. Those early Soho mods knew a good thing when they saw it.
The 501s turned up yesterday, Yuca, after we arrived back from exploring Beeston (nothing doing clothes-wise but ate lunch at a good Turkish place, served by a very pretty woman, her dark hair falling over one eye), then going to Kaya in Radford for yoghurt drink and their delicious cakes.
They are faded to the point where you have to read 'Made In The USA' under a magnifying glass, but were only around the £40 mark. Difficult getting much in my size.
They'll look okay with a Makers shirt, cream cashmere v-neck, loafers - more or less what I've been wearing on and off for quite a while.
I'm more of a Lee101Z type person. If I could find 501s red tag that matched the pair I first bought in the 60s, with the same smell, I'd buy them like a shot.
Bought my first pair of Levis on the first day of shops opening after Christmas '65,(a few days before I turned 13), Christmas money in hand I headed for Philip Grants in King St. Hammersmith, cost 49/11 if memory serves me, ( £2.50 decimal), my Mum thought they were way too expensive, I bet Uncle Ian remembers Philip Grants , my jeans wearing days are well behind me now, just don't think I could pull it off, I'll fall somewhere between ' trying-to-hard' and the old duffers wearing their bargain washed out jeans, thank goodness for chinos and cords ! Robbie - probably the best jeans I ever owned were a pair of Lee Riders, even had them ' converted' to flairs ( '71), with the denim inserts my Auntie Rose did for me !
Stax, this made me smile and nod my head a good deal. I truly fall into the 'old duffer' category and only succumbed because I failed to find a couple of pairs of US-made cotton cords. 49/11! I was still struggling to buy Corgi Toys at 7/6 in 1968 (failed miserably; I was too addicted to collecting bubble gum cards/football stickers etc. to ever save money).
Tell us more about Philip Grant's.
Staxfan - yes I remember Philip Grant! We used to go to the branch just off Fulham Broadway, though me and my mate did make the trip to King Street to see the huge pair of display Levis they had hanging above the entrance. Actually, though I made a vow not wear jeans past 30, I still own a few pairs of LVC, but you wouldn't catch me wearing them much after dark - strictly for round the house or washing my car. Which is what they were originally made for I suppose!
I got my first pair just before Xmas 1964, from a place in Wandsworth Bridge Rd. called Alf's, which sold workwear - donkey jackets, Tuf boots etc. I still have a diary entry somewhere which reads "bought Levis", then next day "washed Levis", followed by "wore Levis". And yes, my mum thought I was mad spending 42/6 on jeans!
Last edited by Uncle Ian (2021-11-01 05:08:20)
Uncle, wasn't Colin McInnes supposed to be the first guy in London to wear a Levis jacket? A Jewish tailor asked him if he fancied looking like a dustman.
It could be and also possibly a bit more likely Terry Taylor, who McInnes based the protagonist on in Absolute Begineers. The real deal. Read Baron's Court All Change and look up the photos/life.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-11-01 07:03:27)
Sounds highly interesting. I've seen his name mentioned somewhere fairly recently.
He had an incredible life - one of the absolutely original modernists / early Mods - wrote Baron's Court All Change in 1960, published in 1961. It's like the inside story of AB. It's essentially his life in thinly disguised novel form that McInnes was fictionalising. He mixed extensively in Soho, then went to Morocco and was ahead of the hippy trail. Amazing pictures of him, really early. In particular one with poet/newage thinker etc Johnny Dolphin. Taylor is in UK style (looking a touch fragile), Dolphin in Ivy style with a 3/2 jacket.
Incredibly Johnny 'Dolphin' is still alive at 92 - see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_P._Allen for his incredible life story
See
https://www.londonfictions.com/terry-taylor-barons-court-all-change.html
It was reissued with a useful forward a few years ago. I got mine in Five Leaves Left bookshop, up the alley in Nottingham off the square. Available in usual sources.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-11-01 07:21:07)
Mm, I wonder if a first edition might be available. I'll do some checking. It sounds rather like the 'Beat Mod' idea ahead of its time. I have an idea JS saw (possibly even met) Lenny Bruce. Do you remember a basement bookshop, probably around Hockley, called 'Mushroom'? I remember buying books on Lenny Bruce from there when I was about eighteen. (Also Dylan). That was during the period when punk had gone off the boil (well off) and about half a dozen of us were looking for something more invigorating.
Mushroom was a hangout of mine, but not of Mods. Too gothy and rocker for that. The lava lamps, rock crystals, tarot, magick books etc. I was always off exploring at the edges of things. Bought dozens of those tapes from there too, always interested in strangeness and new music.
There were a couple of proper art supplies shops you'll remember in Hockley too that were great. They sold stuff that fashion people didn't pick up on, so I bought loads of pop-art licenced reproduction t-shirts and used to wear those. It drove my fellow Mods crazy as I wouldn't tell them where I got them, they even followed me. I would turn up with Marilyn, Pow!, Riley Op Art etc all on s-shirts on a saturday (under white levis, white levi jacket and white shoes.... no wonder I often had to run from trouble). It was a 'strong look' for a while. I also found a place in Hockley that sold military badges, Russian stuff, so I started doing that too in about '86 well before all that became trendy in the early House scene (that I morphed to when Mod was at its arse end).
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/dec/03/the-day-lenny-bruce-and-i-cut-out-newspaper-pin-ups-at-the-establishment
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-11-01 07:51:35)
White Levis were probably a bit risky early on. I had a couple of pairs but decided I could not play David Hemmings in 'Blow Up' (hello, John)... I did like them, though, and once wore them on a trip to Russell Street after meeting a 'Guardian' financial journalist (and taking a piss in that newspaper's surprisingly primitive bog), teamed with too much on top. I eyed their pared down look and made a mental note.
At 14/15 bravado carried me through on some clothing choices. I'd not seen Blow Up then and didn't enjoy it later when I did. I get it now, but it really was documenting when swinging became something darker.
I moved to Nottingham in 1987 so it looks like I missed the above mentioned sartorial craziness. A shame as it could have provided me with some inspiration. I was still mixing Carnaby Cavern crap with new Ben Shermans and Hush Puppies at that point. It really didn't look good so anything different would have been an improvement.
AFS: Beeston is where I'll be based whenever I make it back to the UK. I've found plenty of good DVDs and books in the Oxfam there. Music too I think. Is the Turkish restaurant in Beeston?
Uncle Ian - I'd forgotten about that enormous pair of levis hanging outside the shop in Kings St. ! There was a Jack-the-Lad Mod type guy who use to work there, could sell sand to the arabs, remember some poor sap trying a jacket on that was several sizes too large and the JtL was doing his usual trick of holding the jacket at the back to make it look like it fitted in the mirror ! Must have bought levis from there for several years, again Uncle Ian you were ahead of the game ! Cheers,
Aged 16 in 1985 I saved up, went to London and came back from Carnaby St with (cheap tat but...) a blue 'Mohair' suit with all the usual adjustments (covered buttons, split touser bottom etc), black and white 'Bridget Riley' Op Art distored-check button down and suede shoes with a bit-bar at the front (but not quite loafers). At the time it looked ace for a kid of that age. But the parka wearing friends couldn't understand it at all, an OP ART shirt? 'Those shoes aren't Mod, Mod is desert boots and loafers and that's it'. These were the ones who didn't get out and weren't part of the nightlife (B.B. King version of that song is one of my very favourites). They were very much 'don't get above yourself'. Ha ha. The year before I'd gone with a girl friend and bought up the cycling tops in French colours that you couldn't get in Nottingham at all. I'd been working as a Saturday lad on Victoria Market and for the era, was very well paid for it and loads of tips. Fun to be able to experiment like that, then run down to Revolver records in the other part of the market and buy up all the latest Kent and similar LPs, maybe run to Rob's for some singles (Got 'Little Mac and the Big Boss Sounds version of In The Midnight Hour Rob?' 'Is that reissue of He's Coming Home in, you've said you'd keep one back for me?' etc). Then home, bath, dress up, lots of checking in mirror, get to the city, then off to Bier Keller, King John, Hearty Goodfellow, Hand & Heart until your head was spinning like your feet.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-11-01 09:40:00)
Yuca, yes. There on the main street, with tables on a kind of dias. Very nice food, warm bread and bits and pieces brought to the table whilst studying the menu. Very much like their version of pizza.
I did stick my nose into the Oxfam shop but didn't stay long as I was dying for a piss.
Sounds good. I went to a Turkish place in Nottingham city centre once: very average in comparison to the places I know in Leicester.
(Leicester also has a very good Italian ice cream place, and of course numerous superb Indian food spots. Particularly good for vegetarian Indian food. I would kill for a masala dosa right now.)
Last edited by Yuca (2021-11-01 09:52:07)
AUS: I had the same shirt. From Melandi as I recall. Dreadful. The rest of your recollections sound miles ahead of what I was doing sartorially at that age. Musically I did have a good idea by the age of around 15.