Frosty loved to ask questions. So, to Ian Strachan: 'Who makes a good shirt?' IS (with sideways look): 'Brooks'. Troy Guild and others were forever on JFM's mind - he was curiosity killed the cat personified - but was IS absolutely correct? I believe he was. I think even the boss of the Andover Shop reckoned Brooks to be a very high quality shirt indeed. I don't want to go over Brooks' production history again, just solicit opinions. After all, Ian Strachan knew his Ivy onions more than most.
'Old hat'? Here we are Talking Ivy. Which JFM did so well.
Yes Brooks made the best shirts (at least for ivy tastes) for many decades, with only the most minor of changes throughout that period. Troy Shirtmakers' Guild may well have been equal in terms of quality, but they sold on a much, much smaller scale. Gant? I've never been tempted, plus as I recall their old shirts generally go for big money. Sero? Maybe equal to Brooks, more likely a close second.
As I recall it was at some point in the early 1990s that Brooks killed the goose that laid the golden eggs i.e. they changed their shirt design to respond to contemporary tastes. Fortunately Ebay came along a few years later and, due to the vast quantity of Brooks shirts sold prior to the early 1990s, getting decent vintage and NOS was not hard for many years.
I believe Brooks always kept the price relatively low on their shirts, which is one of the reasons why they sold so many of them.
As any schoolboy knows, it's the word Makers that signals the classic look. Although I don't know if that was the situation in the 1950s and earlier.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-09-29 09:19:11)
I struggled to find Troy Guild. Nice, though. Sero not so good. Returned quickly to Makers.
Whilst you were on . . . ahem 'sabbatical', I recall Bop posted a shot of himself in a white Troy SG ocbd. The collar looked perfect. I've only ever owned one myself - very similar to a Makers. Probably made in the same place in fact.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-09-29 09:35:06)
I think he was a tall chap. Probably wore his clothes well, like old GG. I have legions of online followers ('Twatter') but am a disappointment in the flesh.
I've dabbled with other brands but over the long term Brooks OCBD is a reliable standard.
JFM was promoting a shirt years ago (can't remember the brand) and I suggested that the box pleat was oversized. He said that I didn't know what I was talking about and he was so aggressive that I suspected that he secretly thought the same.
Harry Stedman?
I've not seen them in the flesh but a recent new company in London specialises in ocbds, and they look pretty good. Jake's is the brand in question. I heard that the owner (who's called Jake) was banned from the IS FB page by the new guy. Draw your own conclusions.
Once we are able to post photos on this forum, Jake's will undoubtedly merit their own thread. I vaguely recall that Woof is a satisfied customer. The owner will certainly be welcome to post any info and shots; on this forum, real ivy clothing is the norm rather than a threat.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-09-29 11:58:07)
I think it was probably Harry Stedman.
I like the look of Jake's.
That's why I always liked this forum. The shared knowledge of what is out there.
Exactly. With the emphasis on bona fide ivy.
I can certainly vouch for Jake's shirts. I got paid with a green "Miles" one, for a bit of modelling, and though I don't really wear button-downs much anymore, it's a fine shirt, correct in every detail.
Good to see you back.
Paid in clothing - a tempting concept.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-09-30 12:21:27)
Hi. Funnily enough the green one jumped out at me when I viewed last night. It is the modelling no doubt.
So: a knock on the door at eight in the morning. An evidently stressed delivery driver hands me a package. The wrong package. How close some female unknown to me got to unwrapping this crisply ironed, perfect blue Brooks shirt we'll never know. Driver scratches his worried head and hands me the right package. Addressed to my daughter, who no longer lives at home. No obvious sign it's come from outside the UK so the package sits for twelve hours until she gives permission to open it. What is it? A blue shirt. Right. But I wish I'd taken a lesson from Andy Warhol and ordered a large number when mildly flush.
I still cannot think of anything finer. Can you?
Sad to think, though, that just as I was getting interested, as a disillusioned ex-punk living in a dismal Midland Railway back street (Lester Young in the background, but I was some years away from listening to jazz), in something I thought of as 'American' clothing, Brooks Brothers were pretty close to the beginning of their decline. I think maybe Jimbo got there in time. I'm not sure that John Gall did. Something of an anti-climax, I think he said. So I suppose it lingers as an image, a feeling, a mood, a yearning. Some of you will know what I'm rambling about. Some of you won't.
Indeed. I first managed to get there in '95. It was over. I was so disappointed even if I kind of expected it. I'd been shopping at J.Simons, a weeny little shop in Covent Garden and it was utterly brilliant, packed with the very best of everything Ivy/Americana. Brooks was cavernous and full of boring clothes, boringly displayed, and you were chased everywhere by desperate sales people after their 10%. America of the imagination is a long way from the realities of the country. But much of life is lived and enlivened by the imagination. Pity the man attached to 'reality'.
Has anyone already tried their "new" OCBD and can report on it? The comparison with Kamakura would interest me. The price is okay, but I no longer trust BB in terms of quality. There are definitely better shirts out there, but what I like most is products that are available immediately. This eternal wait at Mercer or Michael Spencer (RIP) contradicts my needs.
Can no-one provide an answer to what seems like a straightforward question?
I bought a couple of their Made In The USA shirts in 2019 and the quality was fine. They weren’t non-iron so are comfortable to wear and have all the little details you would expect like the six fold shirring on the sleeve.
I was looking through my wardrobe to check out what Gant shirts and BB shirts I now have and I came across a Boston Brothers shirt. I think it was given to me but does anyone know about the brand? I thought it must be a 'snide' label and I don't know where it was manufactured but it's not a bad shirt. Great collar roll 4 fingers. Yellow with a blue overcheck. A brief internet search suggests they were made in Italy and sold in Australia amongst other places.
Seems okay, Robbie. New England perhaps. I think Brooks had some of their items made in Italy. And why not indeed?
I've been buying quite a lot of Brooks Made In The USA on Ebay recently (not Ebay Com., the UK site) for as little as £6 including postage. Didn't someone on 'Talk Ivy' recently mention USA-made Brooks shirts turning up in TKMaxx? Anyway, these are secondhand, quite clearly: some Makers, others M&M. The collars can perhaps be a little disappointing but will doubtless soften with washing. Brooks shirts I bought twelve or more years ago that were 'pre-loved' (horrible phrase, much like 'mid-century') are still going strong. Others - RL, Gant, Sero, Lion Of Troy, even Troy Guild - have bitten the dust.
Yes, there was a brief show of Brooks in TK a year or so ago. I picked up a US made light blue ocbd for around £12.
Not so impressive but also a modern (Thailand made, British fabric) herringbone 3/2 jacket for £50 odd, a very heavy merino cable crew and Red Fleece blue/yellow/white bd for peanuts. There were suits and chino/cord trousers but I passed.
A week before I'd stumbled on a Bricks and Mortar Brooks Brothers shop. (they sold nothing but BB) in Oakham Near Rutland of all places, where I picked up a white US ocbd along with a pink, and a white with blue/purple stripe (neither oc or US). I tracked the shop for a while, but they went 'designer outlet' before closing down not long ago.
Funnily enough the shop was a ten minute drive from the Lands End outlet
The guy in the BB shop told me they had an Italian contact who had agreed to buy any stock Brooks wanted to offload, and they'd agreed to be the only UK distributers. Apparantly there was warehouses full of it. Don't know how true that was, but it was definitely within weeks of a load turning up at TKMaxx
Mm, of course the vast majority of what we see on Ebay is pretty excruciating, isn't it? It's as if Brooks decided to follow the Ralph Lauren path - only the latter have (arguably) done it better.
But I now own - in the grand old Andy Warhol tradition - about a dozen blue shirts. People who see me on a regular basis must think I'm forever wearing the same shirt.
These Ebay sellers are in Edinburgh and are very businesslike. They use Hermes. Hermes themselves can be a bit hit and miss, though, can't they? But, having said that, Royal Mail drivers do have a habit of handing over packages for people streets away or even in a nearby village.