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#51 2012-11-12 14:50:08

sonofstan
Member
Posts: 261

Re: The Shoulderline...

 

#52 2012-11-12 15:00:50

Drum Thunder !!!
Son of Odin
From: the Time that Land Forgot.
Posts: 3768

Re: The Shoulderline...

This is the mistake people make. A natural shoulder is not an unstructured shoulder, there is no need to assume a shoulder will collapse, or look wrinkled, just because it is natural. Even people with relatively square shoulders, will have a slopping line. Also, a sack although undarted does not mean it is without a suppressed waist. Suppression can be cut into the pattern, and I've found this best with J.Press. I've seen countless darted boxy fitting jackets. I'm not sure of a body type that Ivy doesn't suit, from your Woody Allen types, McQueens, Hunters, Perkins. Tall, thin, short, built. It all can work.


Arrives unpressed and minimally packaged.

 

#53 2012-11-12 15:02:21

Drum Thunder !!!
Son of Odin
From: the Time that Land Forgot.
Posts: 3768

Re: The Shoulderline...

I'm not sure an Ivy jacket means it'll be short? You probably just need a long fitting, by most standards a boom period Sack is quite long fitting.


Arrives unpressed and minimally packaged.

 

#54 2012-11-12 15:51:10

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: The Shoulderline...


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#55 2012-11-13 00:36:56

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: The Shoulderline...


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#56 2021-11-16 02:18:43

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The Shoulderline...

In spite of the blank spaces further down, the opening posts remain relevant and might be studied with profit. 
JFM, for all his faults, vices and dowright, unadulterated, bubbling horseshit, did care. 
'Our culture'.  What exactly did Jeff G mean by that?  Just the adherence to a natural shoulder?  Or much, much more?
These are mainly rhetorical questions. 
This all seems - is - a very long while ago.  At least two people who strode between the pub and the shop are no longer with us.
Yet that question about 'culture' and what Frosty had to say on the subject remain very much at the heart of the matter.
How much longer can Ivy League dressing outwit the marketing men and their associates?

 

#57 2021-11-16 09:58:59

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: The Shoulderline...

Interesting questions, interesting that Jeff G should talk about a culture. There seems to be a definite inclination and not just on this forum, to assign a culture to wearing the Ivy look. More so than other clothing looks which have often just been about liking a particular type of music. In the USA Ivy is clearly associated with its origins in an East Coast social set and the Great Eight, people over there accept that and are quite comfortable with it. A few of the Ivy Style crowd like to go a bit further and consider that wearing Ivy clothing confers some noblesse oblige wrapped up in an ‘Ivy lifestyle’ with notions of honour and tradition – all from putting on a natural shoulder jacket apparently.

Here in the UK and Europe some like to link it with wider interests in jazz, art, modern architecture and the wider societal preoccupation with the past, which itself stems from pessimism about the present and future. Certainly, many people who frequent John Simons seem to share common interests in these things, or aspects of them. I can’t deny that some of it hasn’t rubbed off on me although I’m a long way from being scholarly in these matters. In old posts here there is frequent mention of being ‘sussed’ or ‘in the know’ and these qualities are still referenced now, we all secretly like feelings of exclusivity or knowing something that others don’t.

I can’t help but feel that many of these ideas stem from clothing forums, but I can't imagine that Jeff G spent much time looking at them.

Do people wear the look just because they like the look or do they also feel that they are buying into something deeper?


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#58 2021-11-16 10:05:46

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The Shoulderline...

Good points.  I shouldn't think Jeff was aware - or cared less - that anything like this existed.  He came from that lovely, difficult pre-Internet age of course (like you and I, Woof) when knowledge was acquired through hard work, curiosity and deep interest.  It's claimed elsewhere that he actually had scant interest in 'Ivy League' clothing - so: a paradox.

 

#59 2021-11-16 10:07:08

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: The Shoulderline...

'Do people wear the look just because they like the look or do they also feel that they are buying into something deeper?'

I strongly suspect that the former is far more common than the latter. Anywhere in the world. The days when a UK ivy wearer was highly likely to be expressing their love of 1950s and 60s jazz via their wardrobe are long over. Most ivyists do have a love of jazz and an interest in the 50s and 60s, but our passions are far wider than that.

Even in the US I suspect wearing proper ivy clothing takes too much effort for anyone who doesn't actually like the clothes themselves and is instead just looking to show their membership of some sort of section of society.

Last edited by Yuca (2021-11-16 10:08:45)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#60 2021-11-16 10:12:41

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The Shoulderline...

Simply, once I'd begun wearing button-down shirts (for example) I could think of no reason not to carry on doing so.

 

#61 2021-11-16 11:26:30

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The Shoulderline...

'The culture'...  hmm...  just finished a meal of Italian-style pork chops with potatoes and macaroni...  glass of red...  Spent part of yesterday afternoon listening to Miles, today listening to Blossom Dearie and Billy Taylor...  then digging little home-movies of Manhattan streets...  Scandinavian and Czech art glass on the surfaces around me...  German pottery...  Alvar Aalto plywood...  Yes, wider than the USA...

 

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