Jason Jules new book Black Ivy a Revolt in Style reviewed by the New York Times.
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/11/17/style/black-ivy-style-jason-jules.html?fbclid=IwAR2vDk5tjfVEOd_bsHBXWj0pj4tVBSVMHd-KS2z1dQvX18i8u69XkiQuG7w
Anyone bought it?
I suspect (and hope) such a write up will inspire some good sales.
I have far too many books so I won't be investing. It certainly looks good though.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-11-18 16:24:09)
Another £30 plus picture book. Not for me.
^ I don't mean to sound snotty but the definitive book on Ivy style is still waiting to be written. A careful collaboration between John and Paul Simons and one J.P. Gaul would be highly desirable. Leave Mr. Marsh out of it altogether.
I’ll be interested to have a look at it, but I wonder how much of it will be history viewed through a 21st century prism. The idea that black men adopted the Ivy look for political reasons, or as some sort of stand against the prevailing order is doubtless true in some instances. But I tend to think that in most cases it was for the normal reasons that young men adopt a style i.e. it was trendy at the time and dressing like that increased your standing within your peer group and your chances with girls.
I wonder how it fits in with the way jazz guys like Monk and Gillespie dressed themselves. I think each was regarded as a tad eccentric, by their peers and by the people who listened to them - which makes them interesting. Move on to, say, Miles Davis, and we find, I think, a connection with Paul Stuart. Did Miles look 'sharp'? I think he did. But in the jazz world, at least for a while, I guess both black and white wore what they could afford/maybe what was considered 'hip'.
Elsewhere, years ago, a thread on 'Talk Ivy' was created celebrating the look of Sidney Poitier. And rightly so. But I cannot for the life of me remember his look as Virgil Tibbs: conservative at a guess.
Basically, Woof is saying it was a fashion of the time (and what a time) and there's something to be said for this assessment.
It would/will be interesting to see if it includes "of the day" thoughts by the wearers or current remarks by survivors. One of those Life mag Watts shots made its way to the NYT review. Whatever context those clothes were worn in at the time, a modern eye is liable to misunderstand. ("history viewed through a 21st century prism" as Woofboxer said above). There's an Instagram page that features a lot of mid-60's t0 1970's American youth culture photos and often the comments are painful.
But I'll check out the book, looks more than worthwhile.
Are we living through a golden age of Ivy - particularly in the UK.
Another interesting book emerges.
You can get lots of great clothes that fit into the general style. Not thinking of any one store more a conundrum of items from Uniqlo, Drakes, Levi’s, Ralph,Vetra to name but a few.
Mono Media have produced some really interesting documentaries that are of interest to many here.
Each film has also created events and interviews.
I'd like to see all the UK Ivyists gathered in one place - perhaps an oversized telephone box. Oh, I know they exist. TRS knows they exist - he sometimes sees them out and about. But I've lost count of the number of times I've mentioned the name of John Simons in retail clothing shops (I mean those that consider themselves slightly 'cutting edge') only to get a blank look and a shake of the head. Worse, they're incurious. Then you mention the Harrington and their little faces light up for a moment. 'Peyton Place' must seem an awful long time ago to some kid who was still dribbling milk when Acid House ruled the nation. Oh well.
I’d like to see all the different clothes that constitute the Ivy look in the UK. I think it would be a broader spectrum than possibly it used to be.Most likely bought about by fewer relevant manufacturers in the US.
I guess it would cover a bit of French workwear, some vintage purists, preppy inspired guys, a few ex mods in Weejuns and Alain Paine merino polos, guys who like a bit of Americana - Redwings,Goden Bear and selvedge. A sight to behold
I had imagined, and JJ's pretentious waffling in the New York Times confirms it, that this book would be loaded with all the clothing as rebellion/subversion bollocks when I'm sure that in mid-century America these clothes were worn by the vast majority of people across classes, religions and skin colour (it was no cult as it became here) because they wanted to socially conform and aspire. Nice clean clothes that made people look good, feel good and gave you a good chance of being taking seriously. When I got into mod, and then later the Ivy Look, I thought dressing this way was the way everybody should dress - Ivy for the masses. They're simple, well-made clothes - we're talking about democratic clothing here. In the States you had all that pseudo-patrician nonsense that was perpetrated by Chensvold, and over here it was the cool stuff, the sussed elite - Frosty, JJ and Kevin Rowland were part of that way of thinking. Anyhow, The Ivy Look book featured lots of black guys in Ivy, and a few Jews, and a few WASPs. We made no big deal of it. Ivy for all!
I liked that about the book. Making no big deal about all these things. Nevertheless, I’m curious about Jason Jules’ book, if not for the lessons in idPol but for the images he’s chosen.
The Ivy Look was a well put together book. When I praised it before on this forum Jim got upset with me for some reason. He seemed to think that the book would be used as an how to dress guide for people who weren't clued up enough (sussed?)
I recently dug out my copy and it's still a pleasure to flick through. My wife who worked in retail when the book came out read it and her boss also borrowed the book. Later a couple of nephews have also enjoyed the contents. Lucky the book survived a cull I did 7/8 years ago when most of my library went to charity shops in a dramatic downsizing exercise
I liked the IL book, without any prompting or hints from me my Wife bought it for me as a Christmas present when it came out, I was surprised, didn't think she took that much notice...
Staxfan- Essex girls don't miss a trick mate. HaHa
'I had imagined, and JJ's pretentious waffling in the New York Times confirms it, that this book would be loaded with all the clothing as rebellion/subversion bollocks when I'm sure that in mid-century America these clothes were worn by the vast majority of people across classes, religions and skin colour (it was no cult as it became here) because they wanted to socially conform and aspire. Nice clean clothes that made people look good, feel good and gave you a good chance of being taking seriously.'
I imagine elements of both schools of thought are true. And without evidence it's all conjecture.
Everything on this forum is conjecture! This is not science. It's chat, opinion, gossip. Don't try and pretend opinions have to be backed up by extensive empirical evidence. We're not developing vaccines or cures for cancer - we're talking about loafers!
Trying to find evidence for the topic in question would be a challenge. You would have to contact anyone in the book who is still living and ask them if they can recall why they wore such clothing 70 odd years ago. And even then their recollections could well be flawed.
My point was: until I see some evidence (which is highly unlikely to occur) as far as I'm concerned, we don't actually know.
I guess the point that Yuca is making is that we are chatting on a forum about the subject, not publishing a book on it.
Up to a point. But even if someone is making categoric statements on here - without saying how they know this to be true, it doesn't mean much. In a book such statements are obviously in even more need of an explanation as to how the author knows them to be true.
I'm just guessing but I doubt the book goes into much detail as to that side of things. I suspect it's mostly photos, with maybe a bio of the subjects and/or a bit of detail about what they're wearing.
I'm tired, so forgive any missteps in my thinking, but aren't our own experiences adopting Ivy style an excellent source of information regarding just how conscious, unconscious, revolutionary and/or instinctual the motivations are when appropriating aspects of a fashion/ style/lifestyle?
All I can say is, I could not get to the end of the interview, even by staggering toward the finishing line. Some of the photographs were nice: the one of the two rather anxious-looking kids at the top (in beautiful colour). Interesting shoes. Also the one of a guy showing a nice low-top (?) boot.
Where is it Jason Jules has a second home? Uruguay? Interesting.
Has anyone bought this? I was disappointed by the cover. Miles in green shirt. Not terribly original.
There are earlier photographs of Miles looking neat and friendly: blazer and tie combo I'd say. There was nothing new about trumpet players spending a little of their bread on looking sharp. 'Ivy League'? What's that, man, what's that all about?
Too convenient a hook maybe?
Always thought the photo of Miles Davis in the seersucker suit at Newport jazz festival was way cooler.....
Last edited by colin (2022-01-07 15:17:34)