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#1 2021-12-02 11:27:30

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

If You Only Had Five Coats …….

You would have five more than a lot of the younger people I see walking around shivering in hoodies and ‘warm up’ tops.

But this is Simon Crompton’s line up of essential winter coats. I’ll go with them all except the covert coat, far too stiff, formal and lacking the welcoming slouchiness of a polo coat.


https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/12/if-you-only-had-five-coats-a-capsule-collection.html


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#2 2021-12-02 11:47:10

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

I actually have six.  Six only.  They cover all bases, all seasons, from my great Cary Grant unlined tan Brooks in the spring to the wool-lined fly-fronted 1967 Burberrys' in early autumn.  I have the Gloverall for now and until next March if need be.  Then there are two vintage Dhobi and an English Squire.  At our age, Woof, you can't afford not to be warm.

 

#3 2021-12-02 12:42:14

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

1 off white SB raincoat (actually I also have a trench but I won't count that as I haven't worn it for years), 2 Harringtons (perfect when the weather is mild enough, a nightmare in the cold), a 60s wool overcoat (phenomenal in the winter), a pea coat and a 60/40. The last 2 are far more practical even if they're not as stylish as the others. Plus of course various scarves, gloves and hats.

Last edited by Yuca (2021-12-02 12:42:33)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#4 2021-12-02 14:23:12

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Great topic. but Simon Crompton's coat list is probably influenced by who has given him a freebie.

 

#5 2021-12-02 14:34:14

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

I was reading that PS piece only today. Generally like his site for inspiration. Although the prices are well out of my pocket.
I wish I only had 5 winter coats! Always had a bit of an addiction to outerwear.
A quick check at what’s in my rotation now, not counting stored:
Dark navy G9, two peacoats, grey wool knee length with ‘harrington style’ collar, navy raincoat, brown Ben Sherman harrington, blue Levi trucker, brown Levi trucker, Nigel Hall prince of wales golfing jacket, two parka style for walks etc. two bodywarmers. And a size small down jacket for wearing under any of the above when it’s really cold.
And yes. I do wish I’d saved my money and got two or three nice pieces instead.

 

#6 2021-12-02 14:46:11

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Due to global warming I think winter coats are as much now about rain and being light weight as they are about keeping warm.

The five I mix up are a Japanese fit Barbour Beaufort, Ralph Lauren Peacoat, a lovely longer length Black Watch tartan overcoat that was a special order from John Simons, a navy blue, half lined fly front raincoat with ticket pocket again from Ralph and navy blue Polo coat for more formal occasions.

I recently purchased a yellow short raincoat from John Simons. To be honest I'm not a fan of the short length but the colour looks great. Again, with wetter weather in Spring/Summer I think this will come into it's own.

 

#7 2021-12-02 15:26:03

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

In these last few posts, AFS, Yuca and AlveyS demonstrate perfectly the reason I joined this forum.
To UP my game. To move away from quantity and learn more about quality.
To wait, save up, research and get it right with one item, rather than grab three or four ‘nearly there’ pieces.

 

#8 2021-12-02 15:45:40

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Spendthrift, for what it's worth may I offer you a simple piece of advice.
Whatever you buy match your outwear to your own personal style.
I really hate to see guys who wear say a formal three quarter business coat with jeans and sweater on a Saturday or men in a suit where the jacket overruns a peacoat for example.
I tend to buy classic clothes that last and are looked after so I've been fortunate to end up with lots of different overcoat options but the one coat I wouldn't be without is my Barbour. I wear it with literally everything, it has been bundled up and used a pillow by my daughter on long car journeys and still looks pristine. The lightweight construction is ideal for the strange times we live in and the fact it's waterproof makes a big difference.
£ for £ these coats really can't be beaten.

 

#9 2021-12-02 15:59:04

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

The present climate is a good point. While we in the UK have had a cold snap over the last few days, bringing the opportunity to break out the overcoats, most of the winter it is wet and windy and often in the double figures (centigrade). In those conditions a heavy overcoat is just too hot - raincoats with zip in linings are a pretty useful garment.

Raincoats and overcoats never seem to make much on eBay, unless they are current Burberry or some such, so there are some good bargains to be had if you bide your time.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#10 2021-12-03 05:04:19

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Black Watch is ticking a lot of boxes with me at the moment.  My daughter is giving her a boyfriend a rather expensive black watch scarf for Christmas.  I felt, upon seeing it, slight pangs of envy.  An overcoat, however, strikes me as magical.  A special order?  Do tell.  As for those shorty raincoats, there was a fair amount of interest on here about twelve to thirteen years ago: the 'Harry Palmer' look? 
Woof's right about Ebay.  Some names command fairly high prices - Grenfell, I think, is one of them - but my Burberrys', bought in 2010, was no more than £30. 
It must have been a 'Golden Age' on Ebay around 2008/9.  I was buying a huge number of items from US sellers.  Not so now.

 

#11 2021-12-03 05:05:43

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

^ Everything Alvey says there is spot on.

 

#12 2021-12-03 05:20:11

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

And if you were obliged to ditch one, which would it be?  Me - the English Squire.  Dhobi I believe to be underrated as an inexpensive vintage coat.  Seen once upon a time as a 'one-off' at Russell Street, they are fairly easily available on Ebay (and probably elsewhere).  Same kind of provenance as Baracuta when made in North Manchester.

 

#13 2021-12-03 05:21:34

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

I remember trying on Black Watch blazers a few times in J Press, but always veered from them just in time. There was a guy on the Ivy Style FB page who always did very pretentious outfit shots standing by a grand piano in his house with a cocktail in his hand, he favoured BW blazers and I remember feeling glad that I hadn’t bought one. A BW overcoat would be a step further, what would you wear it with?


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#14 2021-12-03 05:34:41

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Mm...  let me think now...  something muted down below...  colourwise - mid-grey?  Might need a 'hefty' shoe in order to carry it off.  I'd guess, given the right set of circumstances, a very restrained tweed - either 3/2 or even two - would work beneath.  White shirt, solid tie.  Knitted perhaps.  Black or navy?  Would need a fair amount of chutzpah to carry it off.  So, maybe a little limited. 
I'd wear a Black Watch jacket, given some nice detailing.  Maybe with chinos and sockless.  Loafers?  Probably. 
Nice debate going here.  What 'Talk Ivy' is all about.

 

#15 2021-12-03 06:23:53

Runninggeez
Member
Posts: 688

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Mid 80's I had a pair of Black Watch cuffed trousers, looked fine during the festive season worn with Cole Haan loafers. Can't remember where the hell I bought them from, maybe Blazer in Covent Garden, if anyone remembers them.

 

#16 2021-12-03 06:57:11

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

A Black Watch board shirt or overshirt is something I would definitely wear. I would find a jacket too loud and look at me-ish. Trousers maybe this time of year are fine.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#17 2021-12-03 08:20:08

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

With any luck, Alvey will tell us something about it.

 

#18 2021-12-03 11:33:02

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

I have always been drawn to Black watch tartan. The palette is elegant and goes well with everything from jeans to evening wear.
The Christmas before last John Simons had a beautiful black watch overcoat.Unfortunately is was only offered in their shortie cut. I'm not a fan of this style as my firm belief in that overcoats should cover your thighs.
I was told that they had only made about 3-4 coats in this fabric but had enough for one more coat. I have a vintage full length brown tweed Parkes overcoat that was used a template. It's fly fronted with raglan sleeves and best of all it's knee length. The cut is still slimmer fitting so it avoids any baggy !980's styling.

 

#19 2021-12-03 12:01:57

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

^ There we are.  Weren't Parkes French, their cords favoured by Mr. Strachan and Mr.Lally at the Ivy Shop?

 

#20 2021-12-03 12:40:19

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

RunningGeez probably knows all about Parkes.

 

#21 2021-12-03 15:25:07

Runninggeez
Member
Posts: 688

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

I'm pretty sure Parkes were UK made. We sold them in Harrington. We did a cotton drill trouser in navy, light blue or stone for summer and for the winter it was corduroy in a variety colours. As I've said before a lot of the buying was split between us and The Ivy Shop(s) which why IS & JL probably favoured them.

 

#22 2021-12-04 12:45:15

Runninggeez
Member
Posts: 688

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Just remembered having a conversation with The Weejun, and we spoke about a shop in the Piazza at Convent Garden called S Fisher (a great shop) that used to sell Parkes corduroys.

 

#23 2021-12-04 13:24:36

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

S Fisher? I recently picked up an ‘S Fisher of Burlington Arcade’ cashmere jumper. Quality is fantastic, but couldn’t find out much more about them. One and the same I presume?

 

#24 2021-12-04 15:33:03

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

Sam Fischer was in the middle of the arcade and specialised in cashmere and John Smedley. This is before Smedley had their own shops. I can’t recall when they moved out but remember in the eighties buying from them. This is the time  when the arcade was full of great independents.Not at all like it is now.You could walk down Bond Street to Herbie Frogg who sold beautiful suits down through the arcade for knitwear and up to Barons on Piccadilly who sold really great sports jackets, knitwear and Burberry raincoats.
Those were the days that you came to London for something you couldn’t buy in the provinces. Now it’s mainly ubiquitous tat that’s sold on every high street in the land.
I know this is a massive generalisation but London was choc full of great  men’s stores in places like St Christopher’s Place, side streets off Bond, Wodehouse on Oxford Street, a few dotted around Covent Garden and Grey Flannel in Marylebone .

 

#25 2021-12-04 15:53:54

Runninggeez
Member
Posts: 688

Re: If You Only Had Five Coats …….

I think S Fisher was in Covent Garden for only a few years. I mistakenly found it whilst looking for JS around 83/84. They sold all sorts of knitwear and corduroys, I think they may have even sold Bass Weejuns although I could be wrong. I ended up buying a chunky fisherman's sweater from there as I got fed up looking for JS, I was told JS was in Covent Garden instead of Russell St.
I also remember seeing early Nigel Cabourn in Covent Garden, they may have had a small shop or S Fisher stocked it.

 

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