Understandably, most here are in thrall to the 3 button Ivy sack, perfected in my opinion between 60 and 65, when the whole world just looked a good deal finer. But I come to sing the praises of the much maligned 1970s 2 button American jacket, a version of which I recently picked up in Beyond Retro at a snip in their hipster dominated Dalston branch. Made by Cricketeer I'd date it around the late 70s, union label, modest lapels which avoid any obvious 70s nonsense. A Cricketeer, two button with raised seams in a nice mid-brown herringbone, what really makes this such a super slab of Americana is the shoulder line - it has that soft, easy slope which the best of Brooks used to have, it just drops away so elegantly, flattering the wearer with the polish of its line. Reminded me somewhat of old Linett Ivy sacks in 2 and 3 button that Mr S had in stock in the mid-80s. For the older gent, as I now am, I feel the 2 button has a place, and I feel we sometimes forget that perhaps the most important thing in the Ivy/Prep/Trad/whatever look is the shoulder line. All shoulder lines are equal but some are more equal than others. There is a genius to the way America could mass produce such effortlessly lovely readymade menswear back in the day. Such clothes are modest and elegant at the same time. The British have never been able to do this, the Italians to a more limited extent.
Two button isn’t my natural inclination. If I’m honest I’m far more likely to let detail slide on a true three than a two.
That said I couldn’t be happier with my two button Pendleton blazer. I think I’ve previously said it was gun club, but when I last pulled it out I realised it’s actually brown/blue gingham. US made, virgin wool, good lapel. Soft shoulder and centre vent. The button stance is more akin to typical 50’s/60’s than 70’s/80’s
In a fit of madness I asked my tailor if he could add a button. In a further fit of madness he agreed. Then we both decided it was perfect as Pendleton intended.
Perhaps he’s just a really good tailor and gently steered me to my senses?
Strange thing is it was brought new, but I’ve never seen another like it. Even in Internet Land.
I once owned a two button lightweight Gant Rugger in the mid 80s. A wash and wear blazer with patch pockets in a mid light green colour. It was a comfortable jacket to have, in the summer months, working in a west London office, as a man about town. JS gave me a compliment ISTR.
I did feel a bit uncomfortable re the two buttons but it just looked so good.
The right jacket at the right time for me. It went to charity and someone else got a bargain.
I can't remember where I bought it.
Much as I was in love with the 3/2 I never objected to two-button. The problem was, finding anything that could be tried for size before buying.
Nowadays, I'm afraid I'm as indifferent to jackets as I am to ties. I'm more or less living in my duffle coat at the moment (college scarves in rotation), and the two jackets I still own, both two-button, won't see much action before mid-spring.
Those mentioned above, by TRS, Spendthrift and Robbie, sound delightful. I seem to remember Frosty commenting on a Cricketeer sported by Jason Jules at some creative shindig or other. It's very much what I'd have gone in for a dozen or so years ago and still regret selling the unlined Press herringbone I bought from J and PS back in the summer of 2012. I don't know whether TRS vaguely remembers it. He was there at the time.
Now, though, the pair that I have are unlikely to be joined by any others, unless something Boomish in plaid crops up on Ebay. That I could be tempted by.
I had a nice Cricketeer tweed two button sack. Slouchy as hell. Alas I outgrew it.
I wonder how completely dominant the three button jacket actually was during the ‘boom years’, or whether it’s a construct that Ivyists have applied in retrospect? All my jackets and suits are three button, as that is what I have acquired since I’ve made a conscious effort to adopt my understanding of what is the Ivy look, which I have mainly picked up from visits to JS, the internet and of course the little white book - the thoughts of Chairman 2RS. I also I just like the different quirkiness of the 3/2 roll arrangement. I suppose I’ve worked on the basis of why have two buttons when you can have three? Having said that, if I came across a two button jacket like the one discovered by 2RS and in such serendipitous circumstances, I would also be obliged to buy it. Such items are little bits of history and a testament to the golden time of American manufacturing so we have a duty to errrr … *curate* them.
There is, I've no doubt, the 'perfect in every detail' 'Ivy League' jacket. I know, however, that I've never set eyes on it, simply been satisfied (or otherwise) with approximations. I liberated myself by ceasing to care too much, on the basis that I will have lost every hair on my head and tooth in my mouth before stumbling across some hopsack nirvana. Lapels, buttons, lack of darts, the seams, the pockets, the vent, heaven knows what-all else. It's like the endless quest for 'those boots' McQueen was sporting in 'Bullitt' (I tried, once - and failed) or even, dammit, the spot-on 'arrington with a metal zip, Made In England. (Actually, no, bollocks to that last).
Most of my jackets are now three button but I get a local tailor to steam press the lapels slightly so there's soft roll to the middle button. When not wearing the jackets I use clear plastic paper clip devices, I get from the dry cleaners, to fold the longer lapel down.This helps preserve the 3/2 roll on softer fabrics.
I appreciate this sounds a faf but I like the shoulder line on my Ivy jackets but as as a medium height, slightly overweight chap showing a bit more shirt elongates my trunk and is more flattering than showing all three buttons.