I'm in a French mood at the moment after lunching well yesterday. Now, I've seen the photographs. I've also picked up on the fact that our esteemed Gibson likes it. So far so good. Has Keydge gone the way of all flesh? Have Vetra picked up where they left off? Are they made in France (not China, Bulgaria or wherever)? Is it what I've seen pictures of JS sometimes wearing? And 'heavy'? I'm not absolutely certain I understand that as an 'Ivy' concept. Can anyone enlighten me?
Keydge gone a while ago now.
Vetra is not Ivy or even close to it. JS can explain it but those heavy lines down the front by the buttons, horizontally on the chest etc make these a long way from Ivy.
I'm not saying they aren't potentially attractive to some people or being critical of them, but to me he's selling them because other companies aren't making what he desires to sell.
If I had mentioned something like Vetra ten years ago, I'd of got the same grief I did for similar jackets Fred Perry did around the time (which were definitely closer to Ivy than these).
It's a question of what we want, but I think we just have to be clear, these are more in the general 'modernist'/workwear/fashion area than Ivy.
On that basis, the jackets for me work better than the blazers - which are not dissimular to items in general fashion right now.
It certainly seems a very long way from the generally simplified look I favour now. At the moment, just a white Brooks button-down, Alan Paine slipover in what I'd call oatmeal tweed, green cords and rust-coloured Falke socks. Just slipped on mac and wingtips for the trip my wife offered me to the Smedley factory shop at Lea Bridge. Is my look 'Ivy League'? Partly perhaps. But I'm intrigued by these cord suits GG mentioned and that he was tempted by.
(Smedley items as low as £15 for sea island cotton, £5 for socks. Bought a cotton sweater, dark green, for £20 and ribbed blue socks. Lovely women serving).
AFS, if you like the Vetra - go for it and report back! We may muse on things, but it is all feel good clobber. Enjoy.
Pair it with some Breton from https://www.pellicanomenswear.com/product-tag/breton-stripes/
Ps, how is Smedley so low in price there?
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-09-29 14:44:17)
Slightly damaged stock, so, I suppose, did not pass quality control. Quite a good selection at that kind of price, so maybe worth a trip?
Ah I see. Smedley irritates my skin for some reason, so I have stayed away in recent years.
I'm still uncertain about Vetra, but one of the things I liked about Keydge was not dissimilar to the way I felt about a Press jacket I bought at Chiltern Street in 2012. Each felt no heavier than if you were wearing, say, a thickish shirt. Lovely line to the shoulder. Just the right degree of slouch. A kind of Euro-USA modern jazz feel.
The Vetra suit I tried on at JS was very Ivy, as Ivy as they come, Soft shoulder, no dart, great drape, very soft, perfect line. Better than Keydge in my opinion. Ivy is as much a mood, a way of dressing, as it is anything do with nationality. France, the home of cord-du-roi, still makes the best cord-du-roi and cord-du-roi is very Ivy indeed. Trousers were on the natural waist, a natural shoulder trouser, and tapered beautifully. I ought to have bought it. What was I thinking of? Vetra superior to JS's own UK productions I believe.
Yes when I was saying Vetra not Ivy, I meant the blazer type jackets and work wear jackets on the JS site, not the suits.
Of course, it's vital to see and handle. Much as with books. ABE-type purchases are all very well but I enjoy the smell of secondhand bookshops. A photograph or two will doubtless not do the item justice.
I like the notion of Ivy as a mood. Which can vary. As the mood takes you.
Mrs W talked me into buying a Vetra jacket and trousers in dark green cotton as a summer suit. It’s okay … but I’ve got better things. My chief reservation is the lack of a rear vent on their jackets which can lead to a bit of shuffling around to get comfortable when you sit down. However Sean in JS did say that Vetra are going to incorporate a rear vent in their lapelled jackets next year. Maybe customer feedback from Le Woof has been noted?
That was very kind of Mrs. Woof. I no longer wear suits but the lack of that essential detail would worry me too.
Even Vetra is now being described - by at least one Ebay seller - as 'mid-century' - very much like some of the Finnish glass I've been buying for the past ten years and no doubt the ceramics and other artefacts I've bought, sold and given away during that time period. This is how anything and everything becomes devalued, by being awarded some cod 'iconic' status. The Baracuta G9 (and, by extension, any jacket that someone decides to tag as a 'Harrington', often dropping John Simons' name for good measure) is an example of this. Same with Levis', especially 501s and the now rather horrid Clarks' desert boot.
Difficult, if not impossible, though, to stop all this from happening.
I was initially reluctant to buy a Vetra blazer compared to Keydge. The lack of a vent and flaps on the pockets were my main areas of discontent.
I ended up buying a natural coloured linen blazer to start with. The quality of the fabric was superb.
I have subsequently bought a few more in brown cord, a lovely washed out navy linen and a stretch navy cotton. Must admit I have grown to really like them.
Let's not overthink Vetra. They're not what I'd call a smart jacket but they're not supposed to be. Their attraction is their structure or lack of it. I wear mine with jeans, chinos , Smedleys and madras shirts. I would never consider wearing a tie with one.
My local tailor has pressed in a soft roll to the middle button on the brown cord and it's really something.
Yes, you will always have better options in your wardrobe but they'd be a damned sight more expensive if they were bought new/full price.
With a good range of fabrics, a superb shoulder line and opportunities to buy as either as separates or suits Vetra is now firmly in my repertoire of preferred brands.
By the way the horizontal line is caused through the internal pocket bag stitching. I think it adds to their charm.
On Saturday I was informed by Paul Simons that indeed the Summer collection will feature a vent and will soon be available in Chiltern Street as suits and jackets.
My only word of warning is their sizes are pretty inconsistent so if considering it's one to try before you buy.
I agree with Alvey here. They're not the style of jacket to be over thought. I don't own a Vetra. Only because over the years I've built up a collection of blazers that are very similar. Everything from no name, to High Street, to Universal Works and RL. Often true three button as opposed to 3/2. All blue, khaki or olive cotton, unlined, patch pockets and soft shouldered as minimum requirement. From memory I think a couple don't even have sleeve buttons. This style is surprisingly easy to come by if you're not stuck on any particular brand.
They're work best with jeans or knockaround chinos, loafers or desert boots. Maybe a polo shirt. Not so much now, but I used to wear them with Breton Stripe T shirts. They're not a tie and brogue jacket
Like a lot of people, I was enthusiastic about Keydge to begin with and bought two jackets from Russell Street, including one pale sand-coloured, slouchy number I became very fond of. They turned out to be, I think, a little bogus: really about as French as my arse. Woof sort of tumbled to them and made some enquiries. Vetra, therefore, may have the edge.
I'm guessing the Corbin Madras will perform a similar function for me, probably worn with a polo shirt, jeans and loafers.
I suppose 'Paris based' doesn't have to mean made in France? Any more than M&S means made in England? I can't see any reason why they shouldn't have traded on being 'French'. Same as Burberry trading on being British. I don't like it any more than you do AFS - but retail only seems to survive if it's at least a little bit bogus.
Possibly the difference between reality and projection. I loathe makers who project their goods as somehow, say, 'American' (labelling as the most obvious example as with, say Pendleton or Woolrich) when an examination of the washing instructions (say) reveal that it's made in China (or wherever). I resent that attempt at trying to pull the wool over people's - my - eyes.
I think, years ago, the approach might have been different - as with, say, Van Heusen G9s being made in Taiwan. I think Van Heusen were quite open about that. And they were pretty fair, inexpensive jackets, a decent alternative to Baracuta.
Yes. Completely agree. When they label goods as designed in, or inspired by England/Italy etc. it’s just taking the piss. Especially when the item comes with a little flag either on it or a tag. Or is advertised in an overtly stereotypical English/American/Whatever way.
Recently I brought a pair of suede driving mocs. Cheap enough to trash over summer. Made by Lambretta. Thankfully no branding on the shoes themselves, but the tag, in fact an EXTRA tag they put on them was a union flag stating proudly ‘Lambretta since 1948’. That’s one hell of a stretch of the imagination!
I agree with Alvey on the Vetra jackets. I personally wouldn't bother putting in a soft roll to the middle button though. The jackets are more suitable for my lifestyle today compared with a more formal jacket.
I've never actually seen Vetra in the flesh, so to speak, only in photographs. Some of the jackets appear rather 'heavy' in their appearance - which, if it's so, would provide something of a contrast to at least some Keydge, which was unstructured. How are Vetra cleaned? Do they soften over time?
AFS
the Vetra cotton with a touch of stretch I bought from Dicks Edinburgh is by far the lightest jacket I own. Perfect for travel as it folds nicely in a suitcase.
Also, it's very versatile as it's perfect to dress up a pair of dark denim jeans and an indigo Smedley or wear with knockabout chinos and a t shirt.
I'm not really bothered about country of origin. If something looks good I'm more interested in the composition. Yes, I would love a wardrobe full of Made in The USA schmutter but I'm scared of buying vintage.