Chaps,
I need some sage like wisdom.
I am not one for buying Vintage. I have had a couple of Keydges off eBay but one was so long it was consigned to charity shop.
I purchased some tweed JSA frog mouthed trousers that were sold as 36" waist but were more like 32". So the success rate of my initial forays have been mixed.
In truth I'm awkward about this as growing up buying anything second hand had a stigma attached to it. I appreciate things have moved on and this view has changed. I have been left behind in an area that I perceive should have it's benefits.
I admire many of the chaps on here as they managed to secure some great finds at good prices on eBay.
So what are your tips for buying vintage.
Anything to be avoided?
What about Etsy?
Any advice would be greatly received
Alvey, Ebay takes a lot of time and patience, especially now that buying from the Americans has become so bloody expensive. But it's surprising just how much good stuff has surfaced over here, like that Corbin Madras jacket I bought from a chap in Manchester just the other evening.
Before buying, I check as many details as I can, including their feedback score. Some people who leave negative feedback are simply chancers or imbeciles. Good sellers take six or more photographs and are honest about condition. I've been buying on Ebay and and off since around 2006 (at a rough guess) and have had about an eight out of ten success rate. Where I wasn't happy, someone else on 'Talk Ivy' often was. I passed a fair amount of stuff on, including an ancient J.Press sack to TRS.
'Vintage' shops are often not worth the effort, but I would make an exception for 'Wild' in Nottingham, now owned by Shaun Hoolan, a former Russell Street shopper. Not Ivy - more Americana - but with some nice - and inexpensive - bits and pieces. Universal Works, run by the delightful Frankie (a young lady) is just across the street.
Charity shops can be hard work but good stuff does turn up. Patience can be rewarded. The really odd thing is, though, some of my best buys have come from modest or unlikely-looking shops in these rough little ex-mining and textiles towns, such as the £15 Aquascutum coat a fortnight ago.
Just mulling this over whilst having breakfast.
I've been buying secondhand/vintage for roughly forty five years. We young punk rockers took pride in cobbling something out of nothing. Anyone who caught the train to London and spent money with Malcolm McLaren tended to be laughed at as a 'poser'.
Later, the majority of stuff simply couldn't be bought new, at least not locally, often not at all in the UK.
Russell Street was good for plenty, but by no means all, by the time I discovered it. And names that kept cropping up on here could only be obtained secondhand, like the deadstock shirts (Lion Of Troy, for instance) I used to buy from a lady in Scranton.
Bidding on Ebay is often more trouble than it's worth unless one marks items and waits until they're about to finish. Sometimes, though, a single bid will get you what you want. For instance, years ago, a lot of people were onto the Imperial wingtips because of the Lee Marvin connection. I wanted the (apparently rarer) PTs. A pair cropped up in the United States and I made a single bid - either £40 or $40 - I don't remember which. No interest. The shoes are in a spare bedroom, awaiting their turn for a walkabout. Then there were the Astorflex boots, just a few days ago. A single bid of £30.
Best of all, though, are the Buy-It-Now items with the Make An Offer function, or when the seller spots you're 'Watching'. That Duck Head chambray, originally on at £35 came down to £19.99. Those kind of discounts are often on offer.
Good pointers there from AFS. The main thing is to know your measurements from existing garments that fit you, insist on all the measurements you needl from the buyer. Jackets are a fairly good bet, but careful you don’t just end up with the top half of a suit! Tweed is so hardwearing it is often a good used buy. Trousers can be problematical as they get a harder life, plus I’m not struck on the idea that someone else has been farting or having sweaty bollocks in them.
Outerwear can be a good buy as overcoats and raincoats don’t seem to fetch a good price (nobody wears overcoats or raincoats now). But make sure you get the sizing right, chest size normally 4inches bigger than jacket size - but measurements, measurements, measurements.
You also get to know that certain things will fit you; a 16R or 16-33/34 Brooks Makers shirt will invariably fit me well, but their collars can shrink with multiple washings so if I’m going to be wearing it with a tie I might go to 16.5. I’ve found that J Press shirts need to be half a size larger. Check collars and cuffs on shirts as they are the obvious places for wear. 40R Broooks suits and jackets are good for me but other makers sometime size up smaller.
Look out for ‘deadstock’ or ‘NOS’ (new old stock) in descriptions as this means its unworn.
Wool items need to be washed, dry cleaned, go in the freezer for 48 hours before introduction to your wardrobe in case of the dreaded moths.
Very much trial and error, knowledge sometimes obtained the hard way. You may have to kiss some frog mouth pockets beofre you find your vintage prince.
Shoes and hats can be problematical as regards sizing.
^ Spot on and LOL at the sweaty bollocks bit. I know exactly what Woof means. Also, I bought a Baracuta raincoat just before Christmas with a funny smell to it. I put it on a hanger and opened a window. It improved. Most sellers, though, wash and press.
Go to 'Wild', you'll likely see Shaun in the back, steam-pressing. A good and careful dresser himself, he knows what's what.
Bargains are to be had for the asking if the right approach is taken.
Funny, my new Corbin jacket looks not unlike the one the cartoon Woof is sporting ^.
Shoes, yes - UK sizing, US sizing, European sizing. I always use an online conversion chart and try buying American shoes from UK sellers.
Hats can be a bugger.
Yuca might be a good source of information here. He's both a purist and a precisionist. Doubtless the two go together.
I should have said at the beginning re Ebay, re everything, I pay as much attention as possible to labels, those words 'Made In USA' being precisely what I'm looking for. If the label is concealed or obscured in any way, I tend to move on or begin asking questions. American sellers, I've found, are often not good at responding.
Many sellers evidently don't give a fig about country of origin. A minority will go out of their way to emphasise it.
Fabric - I've had to compromise a number of times over poly/cotton.
The other thing to remember about Ebay, of course, is that it provides quite absorbing online entertainment. I can spend a good deal of valuable time looking at glass, DC comic-books, assorted Americana (aside from comic-books), Corgi toys, plastic soldiers, books and yet more books, postcards of 1930s actresses etc. etc. I well remember, back in 2006, reading 'Superman's Friend Jimmy Olsen' before going off to school to invigilate an A-Level exam.
Alvey mentioned Nick Fury a couple of weeks ago. I remember him well, although my Marvel heroes were Prince Namor The Submariner, Thor and - most of all - The Incredible Hulk. It wasn't just that, though, it was all the great stuff on sale that you just couldn't buy in England: X-Ray Spex being at the top of the list. Oh, what it is to be a baby-boomer!
Lots of good points there for Alvey. The only other thing that springs to mind that I don't believe has been mentioned is to be a bit creative with your searches. Excuse me if you already know this Alvey, but you can set up lots of saved searches on eBay, and they will send you email or SMS alerts for new items. You could save a search for say, Ivy Style + your measurements, and one for each clothing label you have an eye on, but also try saving searches for misspellings – Florsheim for instance is often spelled wrong. And think of mislabellings too. Lots of sellers haven't got a clue what they're selling, or are simply trying to maximise exposure, so you might be surprised what turns up labelled as 'mod', 'vintage', 'mid century', 'atomic age', 60s, 70s etc etc.
I have much experience in this area. I would offer -
1. Accept that you are likely to have a hit-rate, at best, of about 40% success, and only 20% that give absolute joy.
2. Do not buy shoes unless it is a model and size you have owned and worn before and know absolutely will fit you. You cannot buy old shoes online. You may get lucky 10% of the time. You will waste money as I have on endless Florsheim Imperials that are just wrong. Avoid frustration and look away.
3. Buy out of season - coats in summer, madras in winter. You tend to get a better price.
4. If you sense you are under the spell of a 'consumption urge' (ie. subconsciously seeking to elevate mood by spending money on shit you don't need or even want, and we've all been there) do not buy! Put the item in your Watch list and come back in 24 hours. Invariably you will be glad you didn't pull the trigger and the urge will have passed. And sellers often send reduced price offers to watchers.
5. Only buy from the States if this is a crush you cannot give up on. Nothing worse than the outlay, and the long wait, and the customs charge then to find out the item is a dud.
6. Etsy has more Ivy than Ebay, but it's nearly all in the States.
7. Items made especially by Brooks Brothers and Pendleton, and a few other U.S. manufacturers, from the 1950s to the 1980s, were fantastically well made robust and normally have much life left in them.
8. But then you knew all this !
Point 4 is of especial importance - the Watch List. It allows you to cool off and you may end up getting the item (if you decide you want to bother) at a much lower price.
Bidding is often like playing a fruit machine - but there are times when you regret winning the 'jackpot'.
Last evening, I was offered quite a nice Brooks Brothers overcoat (made in the USA) for a mere £15. But I really need to get rid of an overcoat, not acquire another. So I'll pass.
The same applies to the odd shop I might venture into. You can end up buying something you don't really want just to show willing.
All good points from 2RS. Moose McLellan, a one time esteemed poster on here, once commented that he wished that he had resisted the urge to get ‘one of everything’ and to some extent I can relate to that. That and the eBay misbuys, I would like to to think that as I gained in knowledge I managed to get the miss rate lower than the 40% 2RS references. But I probably didn’t.
I’m on a long term project to winnow out the items that don’t quite fit properly, never get worn or just stand out too much as ‘old clothes’. I’m finding that, apart from shirts and raincoats, by and large what I’m left with is stuff that I saw in a shop and bought ‘in person’ - having taking my time to try it on, look at myself and generally deliberate. Even then, the temptation to shop on the spur of the moment iis to be avoided. Mrs W gets frustrated with my mulling, deliberating and cogitating over clothes purchases.
Something else to bear in mind - and I mean this quite sincerely - is, it's fatal to spend too much time on 'Talk Ivy' or anything similar. It's especially fatal to go digging and delving into threads that were on here years ago, when we had more people posting. How often did I - do I still - read about some Boom Years name - let's say, for the sake of argument - Cricketeer, Duck Head or Eastland - and I begin pondering then searching.
Perhaps, for me anyway, it's no bad thing that so much that remains desirable is in the USA. I very much fancied an old Geoffrey Scott button-down last autumn. An inexpensive shirt but, by the time the seller had added on his shipping charge (which wasn't unreasonable) plus the slice this infernal government of ours decides to thieve from us, the cost of the shirt was up from around £9 to £30-plus. It feels like a piss-take.
A pity that Newton Street is no longer with us. Ditto Dennis, the Highly Interesting Chicago plumber. Farrago, too, was not averse to sending goodies across from Oregon.
Just glanced at Ebay... Even here in the UK someone wants forty quid for a Malaysian-made Brooks shirt with a little sheep tag on it... Frankly, I'd be surprised if he sells it...
Just as an academic exercise, nothing more, take a look at the glass finishing on Ebay and take note of how much finishes unsold. Note how high the starting bids often were, sometimes for pretty indifferent pieces. Murano, for instance, abounds.
Chap selling his Alden loafers with a 99p starting bid ended up with around £140, I think. Fair?