Does this overt form of signalling appear before the 1960s? The 1950s even? Lacoste? Was their sports shirt possibly the first, when worn by aspirational American males? Does it feature in any film or TV programme from that decade?
The first I was conscious of was probably the laurel wreath - what some of the boys in the 'progressive' school I worked in referred to as 'old school' Fred Perry.
The polo player and his mount, annoying though it's become, was surely an act of genius on the part of Ralph Lauren and his marketing people. But Brooks now have that wretched sheep.
Burberry (formerly Burberrys') have that vile check instead of a logo. But it has the same impact.
Recently, after much pondering, I bought a 1960s USA-made Levis sweatshirt - in spite of the fact it says 'Levi-Strauss' on the left breast.
Even Grenfell and Paraboot are not immune, with their little tags.
Clarks' have that wretched leather tag - easily removed.
No-one on 'Talk Ivy', I assume, approves. But do you tolerate it?
Tolerate. Yes that’s the word for it. On a sliding scale.
RL use both the logo in one colour, which I can deal with. And one ‘coloured in’ which I really don’t like. Plus of course anything big pony.
Brook’s is the worst. All kinds of wrong. Too much information squeezed into a tiny area and still manages to look like an abattoir’s shop sign.
I quite like the one’s that are embroidered in the same colour as the clothing. Hardy Amies’ is fairly subtle.
I don’t think I’ve got anything where I’d rather have it without a logo.
Also, I never saw any good reason for that little flourish of signature check plain shirts have on the inside of the collar. Aquascutum do it.
I can generally tolerate some. Barbour ones are quite subtle. I don't mind the Viyella stag head on my old jumpers for some reason.
New Grenfell does not have external logos.
Aquascutum is now totally gone as a brand at all.
Internal logos surely are fair enough.
First ones I recall were on Ronnie Corbettt's jumpers in 70s during his monologue - generally Lyle and Scott if I remember correctly and possibly Pringle.
In these branded times - the right logo does matter and can help sales a lot. Paul Smith, Tommy Hilfigger, Hugo Boss and some RL do benefit in my experience of work colleagues on night's out. Men I am with often check out the labels of others.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2022-02-06 16:02:45)
I believe we see the Lacoste in a couple of 60s classics - The Odd Couple, where Jack Lemmon sports a lemon one. And Goodbye Columbus - I think both characters wear Lacoste in their tennis match. I think Brooks' 'wretched sheep' first appeared in the 70s. Gant also did it on their Ivy shirts in the mid-60s, a G discreetly sewed into the fabric near the locker loop. If it's discreet and 'in the know' it can work OK, but in general it is a sure sign of mass market naffness.
The one that got to me was when Burlington, manufacturer of the glorious multicoloured fluffy argyle so beloved of the BCBG French students emerging from the Charles De Gaulle Lycee in South Kensington in the 1980s, started inserting those gold studs into the socks in about 1989 to distinguish them from copies. They can be removed but not without severe hassle and the risk of hosiery mauling.
My word - yes! I was fiddling with one of those studs just the other day.
I stopped buying the Burlington socks because of that stupid stud. Never understood why they did this.
Some Clarks desert boots now have the name stamped on the outside of the boot. What bright spark decided to do that?
I bought a bundle of socks at bargain prices last autumn, all from the same shop: Burlington - the stupid stud. Falke - easily damaged. Pantherella - so far so good.
But, to be perfectly frank, one of the best pairs of socks I own - in terms of comfort and longevity - are a pair I inherited from my father back in 2012. Charcoal, 'unremarkable', almost certainly old M&S. I had stacks of expensive Falke at the time and am now down to two pairs of Argyle - and even they're wearing thin. I also inherited two pairs of Bridgedale walking socks (the old chap was a Coast-To-Coast, Offa's Dyke type walker; no gentle rambling in the foothills with two poles and a bar of Kendal mint cake. The fishing craze came later). These are excellent for pounding the streets, worn with bouncy Converse.
Quoddy started to stamp their loafers (!!) - not just the boatshoes & camp mocs too.
It´s only the crocodile that i´ve no problems with. Maybe because it always has been there?
The old Burlington´s were really great. Meanwhile it´s not just those studs, their quality is a mere shadow of themselves too.
I wish I could remember something about those Fred Perry jumpers I bought at Russell Street about fifteen years ago (seems like half a lifetime), other than that they had no laurel wreath. I still remember JS telling me, 'Fred Perry buy those from us'.
He didn't appear to be joking, but you never could tell with The Guv'nor.
Back to the logo, I've just picked up a hefty biography of Truman Capote. There he is, on the front cover, wearing a seersucker jacket and, I guess, a polo shirt - with what appears to be a frog wearing a crown on it. Anyone know the make?
"Anyone know the make?" Vineyard Vine, I think.
I picked up a nice Gant flannel shirt with GANT on the locker loop some years back that ensures it is always worn under a sweat or sweater. I still like the Lacoste and Paraboot logos. Maybe it's just the bottle green colourways. Forty years ago I looked like a walking advertising board. Now if there's a label on it - bar the two mentioned - I look the other way...
The Vineyard Vines logo would appear to be a whale. I made the mistake of once buying something of theirs whilst experimenting with a more 'preppie' look around twelve or so years ago.
I was delighted to be able to buy a Ralph Lauren, USA-made pocket polo shirt last autumn without the polo player. Nothing else has cropped up, though.
Just digging into my - growing dim with age - I seem to recall Lacoste appearing in a film noir/thriller: 'Kiss Me Deadly', with Ralph Meeker - around the mid-50s?
I’m a bit sniffy about the RL pony and the Brooks sheep. I don’t mind the Perry laurel wreath as I feel it has c redentials, I would wear it if they still made good polo shirts as most people don’t know anything about skinheads ow, but only on polo shirts.
I own several pairs of Paraboots and their little green label doesn’t bother me being very unobtrusive as it is. I would feel different if they started embossing their name in big letters on the side of the shoe though
I would like to think that Woof is right about skinheads. But have those associations, as with the Harrington jacket, really faded away?
I also believe that, for many in the UK, breaking away from that original image has been sometimes difficult. Ivy in the UK has sometimes - often - had a hard edge to it that makes it, well, 'un-Ivy'.
Refer yourself to postings like that of TRS when Gibson Gardens on ''Yale' in 'Manhattan''. Then there are his terse observations on 'mods' at Russell Street, dismissing the tweed jackets.
I'm not a hundred per cent serious about Fred Perry, but JS evidently stocked bits of it - presumably back in the 80s.
I went through a phase around 30 years ago where I literally ditched loads of JS & Ivy Shop clothing in favour of something with a designer label. Most of the stuff I buy now won't have a logo, although like AndyV I have no problems with the croc and the Paraboot logo, I have kept back a couple of shirts from those days, a RL blue & white window pane check which washes up like new and pink 20+ year old Tommy H.
Yes the skinhead associations of harringtons are long gone so long as not some deliberate heritage check. My sons both in their early 20s wear them and would barely know what a skinhead is. It is now long ago apart from to us oldies.
I think too often the mentality of UK Ivy is entirely set between about 1957 and 1985. Things move on. Soon all the Skinheads left will be pensioners. These scenes we recall are now just heritage fashion for future generations to play with. Skinheads are now as far away as the Charleston or Swing was to me as a kid.
I wouldn't wear FP in USA right now - at all
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2022-02-07 09:37:01)
Fred Perry was always tied in with the whole second gen Mod thing in the seventies, along with parkas, targets and Harringtons which, (it was decided) were what the original Mods must have worn.Skins were a fairly short lived cult. If anything now I associate the brand with ageing Mods who want something to wear when they ride their £10k restored Vespa.
I remember wearing a white Fred Perry for games at school, it had pale blue and black piping on the collar and cuff It was seen as a very staid brand, certainly not what you went out to spend your hard earned cash on on a Saturday morning.
It had sinister connotations in some of the small towns between Derby and Nottingham, fifteen to twenty years ago, where the British National Party and other peculiar organizations held (modest) sway. Visiting German boneheads were apparently keen to take the brand back with them as something of a status symbol.
Lacoste also ended up getting something of a bad press and was copied. I think the genuine article had mother-of-pearl buttons. I haven't thought of wearing either for quite some years.
Not wanting to get too arty-farty - but I've been doing a lot of reading recently on post-war American art - the American logo, most especially that of Ralph Lauren, may not quite have the impact of the Golden Arch of McDonald's or the celebrated Coca-Cola symbol (see what Andy Warhol had to say on that subject, if you will), yet, close up, was it not an invitation to join the preppie club? Very, very clever - and ripe for twisting out of context outside the United States by those, early on, ITK. John Simons was possibly onto this early on.
The 'traditional' Harrington jacket (Baracuta) was/is relatively low-key in contrast - and the Perry laurel wreath was modest enough, at least early on.
Did Ralph Lauren take/learn something from Lacoste? I wonder.
I think logos come down to the item and when you wear said item.
I don't mind the polo player as I wear a lot of Ralph shorts, t shirts and chinos when on holiday but I would avoid anything with logo in a restaurant or bar in the evening.
I associate logo's with sporty clothing and on the more casual end of the spectrum.
The one thing I hate though is logo's on dress shirts. A few years ago I guy I worked with used to wear logo'd Ralph shirts with a spread collar and tie. Awful.