... 'there were definite rules about dressing: certain kinds of shoes and socks, gray flannel pants, a three-button, single-breasted... muted tweed sports coat with a vent in the back and natural shoulders...'
Richard Weinberg, Mailer's room-mate. 'Ivy League' and 'preppie' are mentioned in the same, single paragraph, one an updated version of the other.
J.Press are mentioned in the following paragraph.
This will be from the 1930s.
Weinberg goes on to say that, where he came from, Memphis, the natural shoulder was unknown.
Dress at Harvard in that period is described as 'subdued'.
Twenty young men in what looks like a class photograph, every single one of them wearing a jacket with a natural shoulder.
The photos and cartoons of ivy style in the 30s and 40s that surfaced in various old threads were, for the most part, incredibly stylish. Extremely elegant by today's standards yet with a relaxed feel and subtlety that anticipated the informality that has subsequently been taken to an extreme. (And then some.) Trouser and lapel widths anticipated the excesses of the 70s yet were far more classic than in the 70s.
I assume all those sporting such styles back then had money to burn, plus all their laundry, ironing, shoe care etc taken care of by others. I suppose ivy becoming more informal was necessary for it to become adopted by all and sundry. And yet other than chinos and longwings, I think it was all in place by the early 1940s.
Although Mailer himself is said by his biographer to have been pretty indifferent to the social side at Harvard, it sounds as though the WASP majority had plenty of cash and people running around after them. Mailer, the Jewish outsider, had few clothes but wore them well (according to chaps interviewed for the book). Richard Weinberg's family were puzzled as to why he had to wear some kind of uniform in order to fit in.
I assume the shoes were sensible PTBs or something of that nature.
Saddle shoes were massive on campus in the early ivy days I believe. Plus Weejuns, even back in the 30s.
I wish that Richard Weinberg had gone into rather more detail. I mean, the socks? Somewhat later, it seems, following the publication and success of 'The Naked And The Dead', Mailer became something of a scruff: combat jacket and scuffed shoes. I'm guessing, at that point, Harvard and its 'rulebook' hadn't rubbed off on him. There's a photograph of him around this time wearing a plain white t-shirt: before that kind of look was popularized by Marlon Brando. Otherwise the few pictures of Mailer I've seen over the years often show him in a denim shirt.
But it was interesting that you had to wear the 'Ivy League'/'Preppie'/'Preppy' uniform at Harvard in order to 'fit in'. It sounds as if both Mailer and Weinberg were happy to conform, at least at the beginning.
Amusing that when Mailer had to appear in court, or when he was dealing with the authorities (and he was something of a trouble-maker), he opted to wear a dark Brooks Brothers suit.
It's also interesting that, whatever else they wore whilst boozing or whoring, Mailer and his circle, knowing how to play the game, would climb into their establishment outfits if, say, they were going in to bat for Burroughs over the publication of 'The Naked Lunch'.
Basically, it turns out, he remained a dark suit and cordovan type.
Reading the book it isn't difficult to see why Nixon won his first election.