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#1 2009-04-17 03:08:22

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

On softenin' an' crumplin'

I remember, many moons ago, taking my young kids to an agricultural show.  There, in the beer tent, the obvious farmers sat at the back, sticks and collies between their knees, growling in low voices about ringworm and subsidies.  They all seemed to be wearing identical dung-coloured jackets and baggy, shapeless trousers, held up with baling twine.  Milling around closer to the liquid refreshment were the townies in their spanking new Barbours, reeking of wax, and even displaying metal Barbour badges for anyone in doubt.  Needless to say, their pockets weren't bulging with shotgun cartridges, pony nuts or the dog's lead in the prescribed Sloaney manner... 
Flash forward a bit.  Fred Astaire hurling his jackets against the wall; Ivy youth sandpapering its collars and scruffing up its white bucks to show they weren't campus virgins; outerwear beaten up or crumpled...  (Clothing not, however actually dirty, one surmises...)  We have York advising 'make do and mend', 'Esquire' eagerly awaiting Ivy youth smartening himself up a bit, so that Birmingham can begin advising him what to wear on every possible occasion, from his wedding night to his duck-hunting trip, every self-proclaimed 'mod' writer emphasising 'crispness' and, as it were, 'stiffness', and the Ten Commandments demanding 'that worn-in' look once again - thus looping us back to Harvard and Yale and the freshmen 'doing the knowledge'. 
We have John Simons' mate down the Lyceum stuffing his jacket pockets full of coins, and a (later) 'Cricketeer' ad advising against this habit! 

Now, if Barnes, Elms, Knight and all the other bods are right, 'mod' and 'skinhead' (and its later stylistic elements) had bugger all to do with Ivy League.  Yet it's difficult to imagine the mod Clapton mounting the stage wearing a less than pristine G9.  Birmingham says don't go too far without giving your shoes a damn good polish (where's that shoeshine boy?); elsewhere we read of brahmins not giving a fig for either polish or repair to their brogues...  White working class boys tended to want to look smart, either to impress one another or to pull a bird; yes or no? 

Personally, now, I like to be a bit rumpled on a daily basis; and we come smartly back to Gibson Gardens' masterly piece on balancing softness and slouch.  What a bloody balancing act that is, and how hard to pull off!  Six or eight washes and my Bill's are feeling just about right.  Yet how do you avoid 'shabby chic'? 
A close-fitting Harrington is no longer really an option; but the new stuff Baracuta are putting out is fit only for OAPs down the bowling green.  'Orrible!  At my age, I think Staceyboy's addiction to raincoats might be one to emulate (during this grey spring).  Roll on summer and Madras shirts, which insist on doing their own thing anyway!

Anyone still insist on 'super smart'?

 

#2 2009-04-17 05:54:00

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-04-17 05:59:34)

 

#3 2009-04-17 06:11:12

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Smartly put, Alex.  I'm not a suit and tie man, either - although, slightly perversely, the Norman Hilton sack will come out during July and August, to alternate with half-sleeves and chinos. 

You are, in my book, well-balanced!

 

#4 2009-04-17 06:13:13

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Two tidbits of 'advice' I have put into practice: giving my gaudier checked shirts a quick soak in mild bleach to take the edge off them, and leaving my loafers under my desk to get them a bit dusty.

Poplin jackets in particular need to be be a bit rumpled to look good IMHO, Oxford shirts I never iron either. Loafers need not be shiny, in fact I think I prefer them a little dulled - brogues and oxfords though, always well polished. Wax jackets, be they Barbour or no, should always look pretty wrecked.

Crisp though, I never am. Dishevelled comes naturally to me!

 

#5 2009-04-17 06:19:57

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Yes, mine get dusty and I just rub 'em over before wearing 'em.  I'm still waiting for my vintage bleeding Madras shirts to start bleeding, but they're looking relatively disreputable now.  My last but one waxed jacket was so full of rips from where I'd caught it on barbed wire it was unreal!  Gone from Barbour to Grenfell now - unwaxed, hence unsmelly, and a bit more obscure, I suppose.

 

#6 2009-04-17 06:27:15

adam!
The Future
Posts: 608

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

depends...on a normal day at at college i might not bother ironing an OCBD...but i would definitely iron a polo shirt(they look terrible with creases!)..i'd also iron a jumper to get any horrible creases out but wear it around the house first to get the sharp creases out of the sleeves...jeans unironed with slack around the knees through lack or washing (i have to keep them dark!)..jeans also have threat coming off on the turnup and small holes and fraying in the turnup. Keds are very well worn in. white pair are a tad grubby, navy faded because i wash them in the washing machine and the blue labels are kind of falling off.

however on a night out somewhere cool i'd properly iron my shirt, have the jacket and trousers pressed and polish my shoes.

 

#7 2009-04-17 06:29:08

adam!
The Future
Posts: 608

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

what do people make of rolling up sleeves?

personally i would NEVER wear a short sleeve shirt...i'd look ridiculous and i just hate them in general.
rolling up sleeves is slightly cooler i think.

 

#8 2009-04-17 06:29:39

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Night and day approach - classic early mod.  Casual by day, smart at night.  Can't fault it.  (Old chaps like me never go anywhere after dark...)...

 

#9 2009-04-17 07:59:50

Astridsdad
Member
Posts: 73

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

As long as my trousers are nicely pressed and shoes clean (if not actually polished) I feel that the rest can take care of itself. I would never wear a shirt that hadn't at least had run over with the iron, but a crumpled top half with a pressed bottom half looks distinguished IMO.


Bustin' makes me feel good

 

#10 2009-04-17 08:21:24

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

There is a bit of an art to rolling, Adam.  Half-sleeves are my preference - as is the case today.

 

#11 2009-04-17 08:43:02

adam!
The Future
Posts: 608

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

 

#12 2009-04-17 08:47:24

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

See what I mean?  I'd swear I'm a No.3 man...

 

#13 2009-04-17 08:47:28

Tom Rath
Member
Posts: 172

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

 

#14 2009-04-17 08:48:28

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Tom, you always look the biz IMO.

 

#15 2009-04-17 09:28:28

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

I have to admit I'm not a fan of soft n rumpled, and veer into "super-smart" more often than not

I iron my oxfords and generally don't like anything that isnt pressed and clean

I don't like my jeans to have fades and whiskers (which is heresy for denimheads) and prefer to keep them newish looking as long as possible

I shine my shoes after each wear

but I'm always comfortable, and even though I have my suit line, I am not one to go out in a suit that often and prefer smart casual to suited/booted

 

#16 2009-04-17 10:46:10

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

 

#17 2009-04-17 13:55:10

ScarletStreet
Member
Posts: 540

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'


"All men are frauds. The only difference between them is that some admit it. I myself deny it." -- H.L. Mencken

 

#18 2009-04-17 14:14:17

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

is this a "british" thing, to not wear short sleeve shirts?  First time I heard of this affliction it was from a UK guy who said he (and included Brits in general) wouldnt wear short sleeves.  **and also added that "Paul Weller never wore short sleeves"...as if I could care less what Mr Weller wore/wears/doesnt wear

when it's hot, I feel quite a bit of difference between wearing a s/s vs. a l/s rolled up...the area where it rolls feels too damn suffocating with the fabric bunched up by the elbow...and in general I don't like the rolled look on l/s.  a true s/s just appears so much more streamlined, if baring your forearms is what you want.

Last edited by Get Smart (2009-04-17 14:14:56)

 

#19 2009-04-17 14:39:21

adam!
The Future
Posts: 608

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

i think i dislike them because the sleeves seem so baggy on me...i've got very very thin arms and short sleeves are always so baggy on them.

 

#20 2009-04-17 16:18:33

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

GS, plenty of us over here wear half sleeves from spring through until late summer.  I love 'em.

 

#21 2009-04-18 07:05:04

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Kevin Rowland, of course, talks about trousers being 'immaculately pressed' in '68.

 

#22 2009-04-19 10:35:45

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Time is a great teacher.

I think I've moved from 'putting on a good show' to simply showing what I'm like.

Back then I was polished & pressed and wore my style like a suit of well-Sussed armour.

Today I'm more at ease with myself & the world. I live in my clothes & they look lived in.

Again this goes back to my theories about style - If your Look isn't you then what is it?

 

#23 2009-04-19 11:45:29

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

The great thing about, say, a good quality cotton shirt is the gentle fading and softening over time.  So long as the collars gently fray and don't actually burst, they should last for years.  Thrifty Ivy!

 

#24 2009-04-20 01:00:52

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

 

#25 2009-04-20 01:35:16

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: On softenin' an' crumplin'

Too far in certain parts of London, it looks like you're about to hit someone: hence 'prole-y'.

 

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