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#8376 2012-08-02 04:09:37

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3300

Re: Ivy League style for today

Yep, but at least they still make them in scotland.  Nothing keeps the weather out like a Mackintosh, but not to be worn when there is any warmth - ha

 

#8377 2012-08-02 07:32:02

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: Ivy League style for today

It's all personal preferance and individual style; no right or wrong beyond what works for each. I've always associated the trench coat as a pre-war American fashion, perhaps due to its fixed presence in the golden era of US pop culture, and with obvious roots in military dress across the pond. Aquascutum, Burberry, Mackintosh, London Fog, Grenfell, etc - All Brit-made, yet as inherent in thirties and forties America as dime novels, bourbon and Benny Goodman. Mac coats were more of a continental emergence, no doubt picked up by a new breed of American jetset (Hollywood, musicians, etc) in the latter 40s and bebop era. Although I'm sure Mack dates to pre-20th century, these raincoats were certainly not as popular nor in vogue in America until the emerging fities, perhaps as much in due to returning GI's?

 

#8378 2012-08-02 07:54:57

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: Ivy League style for today

Modern macs are cut way too slim with ridiculously high armholes and a longer collar. I really think Grenfell make the best macs today. They're simple, streamlined, lightweight, and still knock back the wind and rain as well as any other. I like the full on ragalan detailing, shorter peter pan style collar, and no unecessary contempo fashion add-ons. It's the most basic, clean, contoured and modernist looking rain mac around, of any present-day makers, from my experience. It was quite shocking to walk through the Financial District in San Francisco back in the spring in search of a similar coat, only to find bewilderment and confusion upon the faces of many baffled department store floor walkers in every high end menswear branch. The classic raincoat is sadly extinct in this country. Even your traditional UK makers, save Burberry perhaps, are scarcely turning out anything resembling what once they resurrected their stakes in. Just have a look at the current and contemporary Mackintosh season on their website: it's all modern tight fitting fashion school junk.

 

#8379 2012-08-02 08:09:19

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: Ivy League style for today

They still do the classics oli, they supply to your more traditional style menswear stores. And they're by no means tight fitting i'm in a 48 mackintosh and i'm a 50/52 chest. That's in a modern style and the classic.


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#8380 2012-08-02 08:17:54

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: Ivy League style for today

All the coats that I've tried on in San Fran, which admittedly wasn't many, were teenaged girl sized. When I wrote to Mack to inquire about their version of the raincoat that they were producing for J.Crew (of all shops!) they wrote back to say that it was being discontinued from their own line. I forget the name of the style, Duncan or Dunkeld or something like that. Perhaps there's greater selection in the UK. I think you can only find them in Barney's NY now, on this continent. Have a look at the current men's season: http://www.mackintosh-uk.net/collection/men/

It was the Dunkeld that I'd tried (three sizes up!) in suffocating hipster cut with bad trendy detailings. High quality material to be sure, but extremely unflattering in fit. I have a feeling the Japanese now own most stock in the brand.


Edit: The J.Crew coat is NOT the Dunkeld. This is the slimmer fitting modernized version of what they're selling to J.Crew, which they've now phased out of their own line entirely. Not sure if it's still being offered through J.C. but as it's internet only stock (according to the J.Crew service rep in one downtown SF store) I never had a chance to try it on, as I wasn't willing to spend $800+ tax, s/h, etc. on a raincoat I couldn't touch in store. The girl in shop said that the only time they've ever seen them in the wild, is when customers purchase online and return to shops due to miscalculation in sizing. I decided to just call up John Simons and get kitted out.

Last edited by Oliver (2012-08-02 08:22:31)

 

#8381 2012-08-02 08:30:33

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3300

Re: Ivy League style for today

The Duncan was the classic cut they have/had here Oliver, and I can confirm you needed to size down - I know a place that used to sell sample, but not been for years so not sure if they do any more.
I might go up sometime and see if they do, will give you all a heads up if I do.

 

#8382 2012-08-02 08:35:07

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: Ivy League style for today

I really like the downfield my fav jacket, one thing i would say is the coloured cotton does fatigue really quickly, within about a year and a half of wear


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#8383 2012-08-02 08:42:16

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: Ivy League style for today

Last edited by Oliver (2012-08-02 08:44:44)

 

#8384 2012-08-02 08:49:48

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: Ivy League style for today

Oh dear.


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#8385 2012-08-02 09:35:32

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4231

Re: Ivy League style for today

Cordings do quite a nice raincoat in addition to Duncan Mackintosh

http://www.cordings.co.uk/menswear/mackintosh/piccadilly-raincoat.html

Seems longer and more elegant. Not sure about rubberised material though. You can get wet through  condensation.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#8386 2012-08-02 10:34:09

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Ivy League style for today

Last edited by Goodyear welt (2012-08-02 10:35:58)


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#8387 2012-08-02 10:44:27

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3300

Re: Ivy League style for today

 

#8388 2012-08-03 05:32:08

Russell...Street
By any other name...
Posts: 100156

Re: Ivy League style for today

Ghastly green Gant tartan shirt
lewd Levi's needlecords
dirty Desert Boots
Rapist sunglasses
Pedophile beard
Weird nonce haircut


42R | 16.5/34 | 34/30 | US 10D/UK 9.5E
"Horses, horses... horseshit!"

“As honest as you can expect a man to be in a world where its going out of style.”  - Raymond Chandler

 

#8389 2012-08-03 05:39:57

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: Ivy League style for today

Have you dubbed this look with a name? Might i suggest, ' stranger danger'?


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#8390 2012-08-03 05:41:14

mightymax
Member
Posts: 313

Re: Ivy League style for today

 

#8391 2012-08-03 05:59:20

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: Ivy League style for today

Are you chained to that radiator Max?

 

#8392 2012-08-03 06:21:41

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: Ivy League style for today

Ha ha!


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#8393 2012-08-03 06:46:54

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3300

Re: Ivy League style for today

Last edited by Tomiskinky (2012-08-03 06:48:36)

 

#8394 2012-08-03 07:05:13

senorservo
Member
Posts: 83

Re: Ivy League style for today

is that a darted jacket? like the fit with the polo, try rolling up the sleeves a bit?

Last edited by senorservo (2012-08-03 07:05:27)


picking up good vibrations

 

#8395 2012-08-03 07:08:51

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: Ivy League style for today

Yep, sleeves look a bit long, otherwise a nice jacket smile - I like stripey stuff...

 

#8396 2012-08-03 07:23:37

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3300

Re: Ivy League style for today

Yes it is darted, had it 3 or 4 years, which is why it's odd the sleeve look so long. It might be they have fallen lower with me wearing a polo instead of a shirt? Gonna have to get the sleeves sorted though, maybe an inch off - hmmm.

 

#8397 2012-08-03 07:29:08

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: Ivy League style for today

Two inches. That's my feel. In the end I had all my jacket sleeves altered from the last couple of years as jacket sleeves are getting longer and longer. Don't know what the manufacturers think...

 

#8398 2012-08-03 07:30:09

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: Ivy League style for today

No, one and a half. smile

 

#8399 2012-08-03 07:43:25

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: Ivy League style for today

I say an inch! Do i hear three quarters of an inch?!


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

#8400 2012-08-03 07:48:00

Leer R.
Member
From: Vienna
Posts: 3450

Re: Ivy League style for today

one inch and a quarter! big_smile

 

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