Yep, but at least they still make them in scotland. Nothing keeps the weather out like a Mackintosh, but not to be worn when there is any warmth - ha
It's all personal preferance and individual style; no right or wrong beyond what works for each. I've always associated the trench coat as a pre-war American fashion, perhaps due to its fixed presence in the golden era of US pop culture, and with obvious roots in military dress across the pond. Aquascutum, Burberry, Mackintosh, London Fog, Grenfell, etc - All Brit-made, yet as inherent in thirties and forties America as dime novels, bourbon and Benny Goodman. Mac coats were more of a continental emergence, no doubt picked up by a new breed of American jetset (Hollywood, musicians, etc) in the latter 40s and bebop era. Although I'm sure Mack dates to pre-20th century, these raincoats were certainly not as popular nor in vogue in America until the emerging fities, perhaps as much in due to returning GI's?
Modern macs are cut way too slim with ridiculously high armholes and a longer collar. I really think Grenfell make the best macs today. They're simple, streamlined, lightweight, and still knock back the wind and rain as well as any other. I like the full on ragalan detailing, shorter peter pan style collar, and no unecessary contempo fashion add-ons. It's the most basic, clean, contoured and modernist looking rain mac around, of any present-day makers, from my experience. It was quite shocking to walk through the Financial District in San Francisco back in the spring in search of a similar coat, only to find bewilderment and confusion upon the faces of many baffled department store floor walkers in every high end menswear branch. The classic raincoat is sadly extinct in this country. Even your traditional UK makers, save Burberry perhaps, are scarcely turning out anything resembling what once they resurrected their stakes in. Just have a look at the current and contemporary Mackintosh season on their website: it's all modern tight fitting fashion school junk.
They still do the classics oli, they supply to your more traditional style menswear stores. And they're by no means tight fitting i'm in a 48 mackintosh and i'm a 50/52 chest. That's in a modern style and the classic.
All the coats that I've tried on in San Fran, which admittedly wasn't many, were teenaged girl sized. When I wrote to Mack to inquire about their version of the raincoat that they were producing for J.Crew (of all shops!) they wrote back to say that it was being discontinued from their own line. I forget the name of the style, Duncan or Dunkeld or something like that. Perhaps there's greater selection in the UK. I think you can only find them in Barney's NY now, on this continent. Have a look at the current men's season: http://www.mackintosh-uk.net/collection/men/
It was the Dunkeld that I'd tried (three sizes up!) in suffocating hipster cut with bad trendy detailings. High quality material to be sure, but extremely unflattering in fit. I have a feeling the Japanese now own most stock in the brand.
Edit: The J.Crew coat is NOT the Dunkeld. This is the slimmer fitting modernized version of what they're selling to J.Crew, which they've now phased out of their own line entirely. Not sure if it's still being offered through J.C. but as it's internet only stock (according to the J.Crew service rep in one downtown SF store) I never had a chance to try it on, as I wasn't willing to spend $800+ tax, s/h, etc. on a raincoat I couldn't touch in store. The girl in shop said that the only time they've ever seen them in the wild, is when customers purchase online and return to shops due to miscalculation in sizing. I decided to just call up John Simons and get kitted out.
Last edited by Oliver (2012-08-02 08:22:31)
The Duncan was the classic cut they have/had here Oliver, and I can confirm you needed to size down - I know a place that used to sell sample, but not been for years so not sure if they do any more.
I might go up sometime and see if they do, will give you all a heads up if I do.
I really like the downfield my fav jacket, one thing i would say is the coloured cotton does fatigue really quickly, within about a year and a half of wear
Last edited by Oliver (2012-08-02 08:44:44)
Oh dear.
Cordings do quite a nice raincoat in addition to Duncan Mackintosh
http://www.cordings.co.uk/menswear/mackintosh/piccadilly-raincoat.html
Seems longer and more elegant. Not sure about rubberised material though. You can get wet through condensation.
Last edited by Goodyear welt (2012-08-02 10:35:58)
Ghastly green Gant tartan shirt
lewd Levi's needlecords
dirty Desert Boots
Rapist sunglasses
Pedophile beard
Weird nonce haircut
Have you dubbed this look with a name? Might i suggest, ' stranger danger'?
Are you chained to that radiator Max?
Ha ha!
Last edited by Tomiskinky (2012-08-03 06:48:36)
is that a darted jacket? like the fit with the polo, try rolling up the sleeves a bit?
Last edited by senorservo (2012-08-03 07:05:27)
Yep, sleeves look a bit long, otherwise a nice jacket - I like stripey stuff...
Yes it is darted, had it 3 or 4 years, which is why it's odd the sleeve look so long. It might be they have fallen lower with me wearing a polo instead of a shirt? Gonna have to get the sleeves sorted though, maybe an inch off - hmmm.
Two inches. That's my feel. In the end I had all my jacket sleeves altered from the last couple of years as jacket sleeves are getting longer and longer. Don't know what the manufacturers think...
I say an inch! Do i hear three quarters of an inch?!