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#1 2009-02-01 07:41:49

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

My Ivy

I had not seen a topic similar, and figured this could grow some discussion. At the risk of looking like a costume, I am minimizing my wardrobe choices. As I approach a milestone age (4-0), I am changing my lifestyle to be more healthy. I guess I cant abuse myself like in my 20's!

Due to these changes, as well as the economic crisis, I have been putting great thought into what I wear the most, so as to spend wisely.

My version of Ivy, as it develops:

Have worn mostly buttondown collared oxford cloth, both The Brothers and Ralph, along with some Mercer. I have recently put into rotation a club collar unistripe from Brooks MTM program, and love it! I am also injecting a more Anglo influence with some point and spread collar options in differing fabric choices.

Suits have become scarce, as my unhealthy living forced me to the Big and Tall shops, or MTM which I couldnt quite afford. As I continue to "downsize" I will peruse Brooks sale items. I have only a few sack cut jackets in my wardrobe, as my locality has produced more Hart Shaffner Marx than Brooks for jackets and suits. Hart is not very padded, so they work fine with my broad shoulders.

I tend to do more tweed/cord jackets with khakis or cord trousers, and the occasional pair of grey flannels. Jeans have krept back into my rotation, as weight loss makes them more comfortable.

I am still searching for the high quality shetland crewneck, as the Brooks, Ralph and Bean versions I have acquired seem too thin or scratchy for my taste.

Generally, I am taking a more quality and fit approach, than price alone. The price will be forgotten.

I am also getting away from the mindset of needing strictly Shell for footwear. I still like the big and heavy look, but will stick with calfskin, etc.

I guess, in summary, my look seems a bit 30's Ivy, combined with modern collegiate (jeans and khakis) with perhaps some professorial leanings. Ivy-Bohemian, anyone?

What is your version? Are you more Brit/McQueen or more 50's Madison Avenue/ Mad Men Ivy?

 

#2 2009-02-01 09:23:32

Matt
Ivy Original.
Posts: 332

Re: My Ivy

Good thread. It's amazing how little you really need, once you figure exactly what your taste is, sticking with the best quality you can afford, and avoiding anything that looks like a bargain, if it doesn't fit your taste, exactly.

Everyone here has different taste, so the answers on a basic minimum will vary all over the place, with obviously, no correct answers.

Somewhere in every Ivy closet, it is usually easy to find:

Blue blazer, or two;
A bunch of OCBDs that look a lot alike (I agree with your rapture in discovering the MTM club collar, at BB.) In the OCBD vernacular, the collar roll is the first thing to look at. BB gotta irons, and Mercers are perfect;
A bunch of khakis. You may find that you will have poplin for summer, 8.5 oz Bills', and Flannel lined;
Grey trousers, maybe charcoal, and oxford grey;
A bunch of BB sized merino wool sox in grey and black:
Rep ties, critter motif ties, and a solid wool or two;
Bass, LLB bluchers, Alden tassels, cordovan wingtip, and maybe an Alden black 901, cap toe;
Depending on your job, as many sack Ivy 3/2 roll suits as you need;
A seersucker jacket for summer, and a pair of white bucks, if you're so inclined;
Barbour, or Filson jacket;
Shetland wool sweaters, with saddle shoulder;
Heavy wool JP overcoat, Burberry like midweight, and JP or BB raincoat.
About 4 plain grey sweatshirts, sans logo;
Madras half sleeve, or polo for warm weather. Just go with OCBD with sleeves folded back, if it suits you.
Maybe a dinner jacket with shawl collar, if you have need for one. Wear you Alden, black 901s with it.

Others will have drastically different ideas. but once you figure our who you are, you are set for life. These styles will never change, and the only things you discard are things that wear out.

 

#3 2009-02-01 09:25:19

Patrick
Member
Posts: 2646

Re: My Ivy

I find it all depends entirely on my mood. The level of frippery is in close correlation to my spiritual state.

I am also playing around with spread collars, as I have a gigantic fat face. I look like an ice cream cone with straight collar or buttondown/tie sometimes. (Depending on mood, of course.) If the twin vent, English cut jacket with a buttondown and slender tie is an agreeable variation on the style, why not a spread collar, repp tie and a sack jacket?

In October I pruned the wardrobe ruthlessly, taking four or five loads to the thrift shop and selling a few items. A lot of it had little or no Ivy cred, so no great loss.

Now I look hard at things when I am deciding what to wear, and occasionally move a few to the donation/sell/swap pile.

I am trying to simplify, which is hard as I am a pack rat.

Ultimately I aspire to the Tom Rath and/or Brownshoe looks, with a dash of Moose.

Last edited by Patrick (2009-02-01 09:27:09)


Otter : Take it easy, I'm pre-law.
Boon : I thought you were pre-med.
Otter : What's the difference?

 

#4 2009-02-01 12:22:53

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

 

#5 2009-02-01 13:24:14

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: My Ivy


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#6 2009-02-02 00:25:26

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

S'funny - I'm not aware of any mid-life crisis but rather the reverse - Some kind of mid-life re-grouping...
A return of my old intolerance for BS wherever I find it and a re-focusing on my first loves of Jazz & Ivy.
Also a desire to return to urban life - Back to my roots. What the hell am I doing in a cottage down a leafy lane? It must have been when my Father died & I became a farther myself that I made a few 'interesting' decisions. I'm glad I'm feeling much better now...

... And clothes do come into all this: The return to a clearer vision of my personal style. No fripperies. Something 'harder' like back when I started out...

Odd.

 

#7 2009-02-02 23:17:28

Horace
Member
Posts: 6432

Re: My Ivy


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#8 2009-02-03 00:53:48

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

 

#9 2009-02-03 05:47:25

Patrick
Member
Posts: 2646

Re: My Ivy

^ I'm not consistent, but if I am in a lousy mood I tend to go understated, even bland.

A better mood finds me willing to experiment or go out on a limb.


Otter : Take it easy, I'm pre-law.
Boon : I thought you were pre-med.
Otter : What's the difference?

 

#10 2009-02-03 09:38:12

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

Interesting.

I believe in my soul on a good day.

Other days I coast.

 

#11 2009-02-09 17:40:05

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

Re: My Ivy

From a poster on "the other forum":

I think your on to something anyway. There is a whole sub-genre that Richard Merkin called the "Gentle Art of Shabby Dressing", GQ January 1990. He speaks of Brown circa 1961 and seeing school scarves threadbare from multi generational use, frayed BB button downs, jazz age Shetland sweaters, ancient Harris tweed jackets with beautiful patinas and "if there were elbow patches(and there often were),they were due to an absence of material..." Merkin speaks of something almost organic vs a "studied seediness"

Interesting that this was a popular style. I would like to read more of this article. Any ideas on how to obtain? Anyone have a scanned copy?

 

#12 2009-09-07 08:48:22

shuman2
Member
Posts: 19

Re: My Ivy

Lately (maybe nostalgia for my youth) I have been going for a more "heavy ivy" or 70's and early 80's version. More realistic than the various online discussion boards would have you beleive. Red Wing workboots or weejuns with Levis 501 or cords. I have an old Bean norwegian sweater, and plan to invest in a Scandinavian-style sweater this winter.

Pre-OPH, but more real life, for sure. I will continue to wear occasional bright colors, but no 80's fads please.

Any other fans of this era?

 

#13 2009-09-07 08:54:47

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

 

#14 2009-09-07 09:13:28

AQG
Member
From: The Sticks
Posts: 1306

Re: My Ivy

I'm setting foot out of the house today in Black Watch footer bags.  My spirit is delightfully tainted.

 

#15 2009-09-07 09:17:35

AQG
Member
From: The Sticks
Posts: 1306

Re: My Ivy

 

#16 2009-09-07 10:30:44

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: My Ivy

Levis, weejuns, Redwing crepe soled workboots, Burlingtons, Clubmaster frames, suede or leather 3/4 jacket with leather football buttons, cord, Smedley roll necks, Hanes beefy T's, soft check shirts with loop collars, desert boots, Duffle coat, university scarf, worn Levis khakis, buckle back drivers cap, Playboy chukkas, plain grey sweatshirt... Boho Ivy?

 

#17 2009-09-07 10:51:01

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

Nope.

Just the reality of the spectrum.

All this 'Tradly Gentleman' crap is the minority stuff.

 

#18 2009-09-07 10:58:10

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

... "I wear a suit or a sportscoat most days"... "Bow ties at least three times a week"...

^ And then he calls three piece suits "vested suits". Wot a Pleb.

wink

 

#19 2009-09-07 11:16:20

shuman2
Member
Posts: 19

Re: My Ivy

 

#20 2009-09-08 00:20:15

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

 

#21 2009-09-08 04:18:37

shuman2
Member
Posts: 19

Re: My Ivy

 

#22 2009-09-08 04:29:28

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: My Ivy

Hello Shuman. Burlingtons are a quality sock brand here in Britain. More famous for their Argyle patterns.

 

#23 2009-09-08 04:33:00

Beatnik
Member
Posts: 604

Re: My Ivy

Hello Shuman. Burlingtons are a quality sock brand here in Britain. More famous for their Argyle patterns.

 

#24 2009-09-08 04:35:38

shuman2
Member
Posts: 19

Re: My Ivy

Ah yes. I realized that once posted. Too quick on the keyboard.

Perhaps this should have been its own thread.

Actual Ivy vs. Media Ivy? 

(I, for one, enjoy the historical more than the caricature. How these items were really worn.)

 

#25 2009-09-08 04:44:44

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: My Ivy

 

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