http://www.acontinuouslean.com/2010/04/23/workwear-from-the-archives-dickies-1922-collection/#more-15030
My favourite comment on that blog article:
"Yeah…nearly $400 to look like a zoo keeper…."
Classic.
Reading the comments section also brought to mind a rant that I have had brewing for some time:
The selvage edge. ALL WOVEN FABRIC has a selvage edge. There is nothing ipso facto special or interesting about a selvage edge. "Selvage" does not define or indicate the quality of cloth. I have a pair of seersucker pajamas that I made myself. they have a selvage edge. Perhaps I could sell them for 200 bucks. The sudden high demand for a visible selvage edge on everything ("selvage oxford"?) started with vintage Levis aficionados who sought the redline selvage edge outseam because it signified the historical fact that a specific pair of vintage Levis were made of denim woven on a old shuttle loom. The old shuttle looms produced a narrower fabric (along the crossgrain, for those of you who speak weaver/tailor), and thus a longer yardage was needed along the grainline to make the pants. The selvage edge along the inseam was a means of conserving fabric. When the old shuttle looms were replaced, the new looms still produced selvage edges, but it was no longer necessary to use them in the outseam.
I'm not saying that selvage isn't a visually interesting effect, but people who have no idea what they're talking about freak out every time they see a red line without a zigzag stitch. Some cheap denim produces are getting keen to this and are actually sewing a red line down the out seam of non-selvage fabric and then blending the zigzag stitch with the fabric.
Last edited by The Thin Repp (2010-04-23 15:59:24)
^
Buy that man a drink!
Aye.
Dickies on the bandwagon too, eh? What next?
The Wigwam 'Kennedy'?
The Bass 'Chapel Hill'?
I love all this nonsense about "archives" too. Like there is some top secret heritage Americana vault/lab buried deep inside a mountain somewhere in Colorado. The whole point is to add an unnecessary sense of rarity and justify the ridiculous price point.
I don't mean this as a jab at ACL. He's good at what he does and he has a good eye. If I were a manufacturer and I saw a market where young men between 18 and 35 were paying 250 bucks for oxford shirts, would I say "time to be the good guy" and start selling them for 75?
I wish the "trickle down effect" of the heritage Americana "movement" (and one of the problems with the internet is that it can create the illusion of a movement when really it's just a handful of people) would be a bit more robust in terms of it's eye for detail. There is a great opportunity to fill in some of the gaps in terms of what is hard to find (the Florsheim Yuma, the 4-fold unlined skinny repp, the high-rise buckleback chino, seersucker sack suits with narrow lapels), but it seems like by the time everything reaches "street level," i.e. J.Crew etc, it's all pretty watered down. So many times I have walked through that store, picked things up and said to myself "almost there. almost."
Those pants look like they have a nice high rise and a WWII cut.
^I listened to the Boss's The River album last night, all two CD's worth. The first time in maybe six years, it made a lot of sense. But I downed two bottles of French white wine at a wopping 14% whilst listening, so that may have influenced my enjoyment.
Do you think ACL posted those comments himself?
Last edited by The Thin Repp (2010-04-24 19:39:36)
The River was apparently about his sister and her husband, whose marriage was going down the pan at the time. And 30years later, that blue collar world of following in your father's footsteps into the local factory or apprentice scheme is long gone.
Its probably The Boss's finest album, with Darkness of the Edge of Town and Nebraska coming in a close second for a mood of blue collar weariness and dream like disenchantment.
All comments on ACL (Just like on Chen's Ivy-Style) are stage managed. Mr. Williams claims to publish them all, but he does not. He selects to suit his agenda & the interests of his clique. Just like I would, if I was a commercial blogger!
This is why I like the dynamic of an independent forum like this one - No commercial agenda equals more for the mix.
Also, I honestly believe that our lack of any kind of faux 'orthodoxy' to push equally adds to the quality over here. We have no self-defining 'Curriculum' to defend.
Last edited by Russell_Street (2010-04-25 03:05:45)