It's become a cliche.  I can well understand why Agnelli and Simons might not have bothered.  Even some of my Brooks don't have much of a roll.  Why bother on a Madras?  Of the four that I own only Sero put on a sensible collar.  Some of the nicer shirts I have owned have had neat little tab collars, and if I took a design job at Ralph Lauren I'd do away with the button-down collar altogether - in addition to having the shirts made in the USA, 100 per cent cotton, no emblem. 
I go through a rail of shirts:  Who made it?  Where was it made?  What's it made of?  Will it be a good fit?  What does the collar look like?  Too stiff!  Too droopy-looking!  Naturally, I'm buying fewer and fewer shirts.  I'm saddened when those that I cherish finally give up the ghost.

P.S. Can somebody find me a decent polo shirt?  Another area for anger and disgust!