Difficult, if not impossible, in the UK to completely disassociate the style from the '69 image. Partly the fault of Hewitt, I think, for making too much of the fact some lads wore shirts with button-down collars and big brogues. I don't want to offer an out-and-out Woody Allen or architects' look, but dwell for a moment upon well-tended hair, tortoiseshell frames, the pale blue OCBD, the tweed jacket, decent khakis, loafers or wingtips. A battered leather case. Behind the image, a mind filled with music, literature, the arts in general: creation and creativity. Once again, to reiterate, the long march away from the spirit of '69 and towards Ivy-influenced hip in 2010. The Look lives on; the younger guys are coming through. Focus, once more, upon New York City around fifty years ago: Brooks, Press, Paul Stuart... the promised land...
This one's just for you, Jimmy...
And I apppreciate every word.
Give this thought a spin though - If '69 is something to be dealt with in the UK then '81 remains something to be dealt with in the US.
So are you a 'Skinhead' or a 'Preppy'? - Both are purely creations of the popularist media...
... Or do you follow another path?
One that you'll find here.
Hope so.
Natural shoulders, natural materials & natural attitudes.
No artificial Internet created labels. Just the labels that really count...
I've never been 100 per cent convinced by Kevin Rowlands' essay - and I must have read it a hundred times. That 'recreation' always appears a shade more 'Preppy' to my eyes than Ivy. Does it matter? Well, yes. The colour choices, for instance...
Ivy evolution, Prep stagnation. No handbook, only discreet and informed choices.
This is by way of exploring the Ivy/modernist mind; making the assumption that the UK stylist has become less 'self-conscious about the clothes on his back' a la John Simons et al. and is busily sifting and filtering those visual and aural images that contribute endlessly and vitally to the overall outlook. This might bore or anger some, but it remains the essence of the English modernist experience.
The thing is that The Look will never be hip again in a modernist sense, which is fine I think. Why not accept and embrace the fact that it's a very conservative look, worn by traditionalists? No one will associate this look with Jazz, literature, art and creativity etc. 'The hardcore' consider this to be the subversive side of Ivy, a dubious notion to my mind although it says a lot about the overall attraction (in the UK) as such.
Once you start talking to strangers they might recognise the passion behind it all, or at least that there is a thought behind it. Of course this would only be of interest if the stranger in question would be similarly passionate with regard to his clothes and musical preference. That person could very well be a 'hipster' indeed...
Last edited by Alex Roest (2010-07-19 03:48:21)
I want a scrap!
(Maybe if I masturbated more I wouldn't feel this way...?)
Ivy remains Hip in the Modernist sense. Ivy is also Traditionalist & Conservative. And somewhere in that mix there is something subversive.
If Modernism today doesn't think that Ivy remains Hip then Modernism today isn't Hip!
(I know, I know... I'm a Twat. But I'm YOUR Twat!)
The Rip and Russell Roadshow. Comin' to a smoky dive near you.
Just picked up Dell's Guide To New York City for 1964. £3.99 from the local Oxfam shop. It was meant to be.
KR is most interesting IMO when he talks about fine lambswool and fly-fronted macs. The clothes chosen for the pictures are slightly dubious, I think.
J.Simons, as I experienced it, seemed bathed in a light of very hip nostalgia. A paradox for the modernist. I no longer really wear that label - if you see what I mean. Russell Street never claimed to. I used to love nearly all aspects of the website: particularly the arcane bits. The notion of modernism, however, still seems very seductive. It has many potent ingredients. Gibson Gardens' fascination for Italy informed my choice of a novel by Silone to read one quiet evening. Talk of Woody Allen has me looking forward to the next viewing of 'Radio Days' or 'Broadway Danny Rose'. A snippet about an olive G9 has me interested and asking around. I even enjoy my morning cup of coffee all the more.
Last edited by Alex Roest (2010-07-19 10:21:07)