You are not logged in.
#1 2008-07-10 18:07:25
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
Most people are probably familiar with the artist:
the Pop Art stuff, the Underground movies, his connection to multi-media (the Exploding Plastic Inevitable feat. the Velvet Underground & Nico, modern dancer Gerard Malanga, movies and light show), the Factory...
the work ethic, the chit chat philosophy, the shy his circle of New York hipsters and drag queens... stars for 15 min. fame...
His approach to the Ivy League style is a very unique one. He started as a commercial artist (and he always was close to his roots) drawing shoe adverts for magazines...
He spent his first salary on 100 identical white Brooks Brothers shirts!
He was obsessed with commercial design and pop(ular) culture. He was a modern Dandy, "Dandyism in the age of mass production". The third sensibility that Susan Sontag was talking about in her essay "Notes on Camp"...
mass production is the key to Warhol's art as well as to his style. He went for the Look because of its All-American appeal, same with his art: no more ivory tower illusions about a work of art as a unique masterpiece, no "aura"... we live in an age of reproduction, mass production: photograhy, phonographs, recorded music, film...
In his "Philosophy..." he could write about the aesthetics of jeans...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Philosophy_of_Andy_Warhol
He is also known for the "Warhol look" combining Levi's 501 with blue blazers, button down shirts and tie. According to the gospel of Bob Colacello (Vanity Fair, Parade, Interiew) Warhol copied that style from his friend Fred Hughes ":
"Everything he wore was English: handmade suits from Tommy Nutter, handmade shirts from Turnbull & Asser; handmade shoes from Lobb's(...) Even his Levi's 501 looked as if they'd been altered on Savile Row- the seams were never crooked and there was no extra fabric on the thighs- but maybe that was because had them washed and pressed every day. Fred was the first to wear jeans with suit jackets, but when Andy adopted the style as his uniform it became known as the Warhol look"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andy_Warhol
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#2 2008-07-10 18:35:25
- tom22
- Member
- Posts: 295
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
Funny: I have read some of the memoirs, including that of the actual Ivy Icon George Plimpton and his oral history of Edie Sedgewick. He did like the style.
Maybe Warhol is an Ivy Icon now. Not at the time. Hard to believe, but the time was a long time ago. Was it Paul Morrisey who just sold all that land at Montauk for over 20 million? Not sure. I guess it is a bit Collegiate to be in the end, all about the real estate.
I'm going to be a one man band. When I was growing up the phrase was "collegiate".
Last edited by tom22 (2008-07-10 19:30:41)
#3 2008-07-10 19:06:24
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
collegiate...sounds better than "trad" to me, more youthful...familiar with the term, too... the Princeton or Ivy League haircut is also called the collegiate cut...
"college style" in Germany is the most common term for the whole Ivy look, but usually synonymous with 80s preppy...
can be quite boring, watered down...especially the law student's casual uniform: slicked back hair or messed up hair, RL Polo, Lacoste... always pink polo shirts with a stand up collar ....Barbour wax jacket, Chinos or Cords and Timbaland boat shoes...
There are variations and people who actually can pull it off alright, but usually it is very conformist and square...
After all the real "Trad" (even as an "iGent fantasy", thanks for that, Russell Street) is much more interesting than the RL boredom...no soul, IMO...I am not sure what Andy Warhol would have thought about it... Eventually, he was raving about McDonald's being everywhere and how he loved that...
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#4 2008-07-10 19:43:02
- tom22
- Member
- Posts: 295
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
"Collegiate" was the style of a moment. But that was a fairly long lived and very emphatic moment in the early 50s into early 60s.
It was intended to embrace a wider world than the Ivy schools. In the late 50s and early 60s college was an aspirational and an era of consensus. A state degree, an Ivy degree. Not much difference. DKE had houses all over the country, as did a lot of other fraternities. The styles were not exclusive. They were general. the styles were "collegiate". I think there was a unity in the country about the style. But in the mid and late 60s the consensus ended, probably never to occur again.
and I don't mean to say that the breakdown was wrong (actually, I believe the breakdown was absolutley right). I just mean to say that it was the end of an era.
#6 2008-07-12 03:21:33
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6432
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#7 2008-07-12 03:23:22
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6432
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#8 2008-07-13 13:51:55
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#9 2008-07-13 16:02:13
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#10 2008-07-14 01:03:59
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
Sontag on Camp is a must read for anybody into style - Good call. I'll dig out more on Camp from Neil Bartlett as time allows.
You are absolutely right - Camp is all about a certain positioning and presentation of things including aspects of yourself if you wish. It's an honest artifice. A very knowing contrivance.
#11 2009-02-26 13:51:20
- Decline & Fall
- Ivyist At Large
- Posts: 850
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler
#12 2009-02-26 13:55:08
- Decline & Fall
- Ivyist At Large
- Posts: 850
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-02-26 14:37:01)
"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler
#13 2010-07-23 07:45:41
- Rip Rig & Panic
- Member
- Posts: 4697
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
I quite like the picture where he looks like an Ivy Michael Foot.
I used to look at his Monroe in Manchester. I used to think he was nowt but a daft old queen. Now I realise he was just a superb businessman, ahead of his time, who twigged that the arty-fart types - like that weird fucker on the BBC news - are more easily conned than the muddled masses.
Good taste in shirts.
#14 2010-07-23 08:21:03
- Kingstonian
- Member
- From: sea to shining sea
- Posts: 3205
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
Last edited by Kingstonian (2010-07-23 08:22:13)
#15 2010-07-23 08:23:43
- Rip Rig & Panic
- Member
- Posts: 4697
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
I saw and heard precisely the same shit. Gets my nomination for Complete hoho of the Year.
#16 2010-07-23 08:25:39
- nouvelle vague
- A Distillation of Ivy Inspiration.
- Posts: 452
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
If it's starting to go, get rid of it. dont wait to look like the clown with the longest barnet. what a...
'Jean-Paul Sartre and john lee hooker'
#18 2010-07-23 08:33:16
- Rip Rig & Panic
- Member
- Posts: 4697
Re: Andy Warhol- Ivy Icon
What was worse in a way was the earnest bollocks being talked by the cove at Sadlers Wells. No doubt they'll want it all to be publicly funded. 'Swan Lake' in South Central LA. Maybe the tranny shagging the dog in Cornwall was a performance artist.
Sorry to derail your thread, Hank.